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Old 02-09-2013, 11:45 AM   #31
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


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Originally Posted by danpik View Post
Amps are not pushed, They are pulled with a load.
Nope. Amps are pushed. By voltage.
Don't believe me? Take a "load" that "pulls" 10 amps (Say a 1200 watt hair dryer) Plug it into a outlet with no voltage. How many apmp will that "load" "pull" out of a dead outlet? If you guessed zero you'd be right. Amps don't go anywhere without voltage to push them along.

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Old 02-09-2013, 01:15 PM   #32
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


The black round receptacle on the left is not 240V. That is a standard 30 amp 125V receptacle. IIRC, the NEMA # is tt-30R
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:33 PM   #33
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Ahh, gave me a fake phone number anyways. So you guys can have it.

Trailer Trash Main Power Problems-0208131539a.jpg

Trailer Trash Main Power Problems-0208131539b.jpg

Trailer Trash Main Power Problems-0208131540.jpg
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:44 PM   #34
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What was your planned fix that cost you $50? Those testers are no good for what you are doing. You need a meter.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:15 PM   #35
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Bullcrud rrolleston. It was the original reason for my first sarcasm. Been around it for over 15 years. I learn something new everyday. We all do. That's why I don't draw the line at "professional". I know what I'm doing. You do not think I knew that box would kill me once I got beyond checking if it was hot or not? That's how I actually got them to fix it... not my problem, once I proved that it was the breaker on the left. Bought a stupid adapter for the male part of her plug, plugged it into the twenty amp on the right, boom, everything runs fine.

This site is DIY. Whole point of this post. Be CAREFUL, AND if you know how to avoid dying, since you can in a split second. I was just trying to show you a problem, asked advice on how to fix it, fixed it myself by not being stupid as people claimed around here, and now she has a new box and new guts for it, and she is warm.

AllanJ. Your totally right. Which is why it was throwing me off so much. How am I getting juice, but yet, as soon as the more amps I was trying to draw, were not triggering anything. Till... I found out that that breaker was running a few amps only. But nothing was still tripping. Never came across that before. And no.. I did not change the power cord. All I did was unplug it and get ohm readings on each wire to make sure from it's power source "plug" to every wire to the box was running good. The neon test light was to just let me know I was getting "some" voltage. Nothing more. 110 "yay", but that's where it ends. No amps which sucks. Can you direct me to a good product that actually measures the amps going through a breaker or line for that matter?

Oso954 .... You win. What for that matter, I do not know.

The last photo on this list was to show you that once I hooked up another breaker.. no voltage what so ever.

Still, I guess the owner is over there right now replacing the whole box. Waiting for the call to hear that everything is right. I know I'm going to have to go over there even after this to fix it. Annoying.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:28 PM   #36
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So did you find the problem? Hope you didn't do all this for someone who gave you a fake number...

Last edited by diystephen; 02-09-2013 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:33 PM   #37
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Your problem is that you are bringing the feed onto a single pole breaker which is only feeding half of the panel. The stab the second breaker is on is not live. If you take the breaker in the second space out and reinstall it in the 3rd space, I'll bet you have power.

Unless this is a special 120V only subpanel for this application. I have never seen one, but I don't do much work on trailers.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:35 PM   #38
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Nope. The number is from a woman who I know who wants to... well, so the woman's trailer I'm working on had to lie to and tell her this chick and tell her it was an electrician's wife. Who, if you are nice to me.. I'm going to give her crud and I'll post her number on here for you.

I'll put it on my other hand and take a picture...
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:42 PM   #39
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k buz. That's what I did, and is proving to the owner of the place what is going on. It was live with a freakin 30amp breaker pulling only 1,2,10 amps max. That is what I got her to have heat and power for the last night. Was on that second line with an adapter. Ran everything in the house, begged her not to run the dehum. Just got the call. New box, new outlets, and everything is running right. Told her to max out everything to run a test. I still need to go out there and check it, but none of this has anything to do with what my original post was about.

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Old 02-09-2013, 02:47 PM   #40
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You aren't understanding...the problem wasn't the panel. It was the way in which it was wired and its intended use. I will spare any more technical questions because it seems (by your answers) that you know just enough to be dangerous.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:08 PM   #41
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Still, I guess the owner is over there right now replacing the whole box. Waiting for the call to hear that everything is right. I know I'm going to have to go over there even after this to fix it. Annoying.
Not going to have to replace the whole box. Just a bad connection somewhere in there that needs to be fixed. You should have just fixed it so you don't have to go back.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:10 PM   #42
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Nope. The number is from a woman who I know who wants to... well, so the woman's trailer I'm working on had to lie to and tell her this chick and tell her it was an electrician's wife. Who, if you are nice to me.. I'm going to give her crud and I'll post her number on here for you.

I'll put it on my other hand and take a picture...
I didn't quite get all that, but I'm spoken for...
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:11 PM   #43
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Your problem is that you are bringing the feed onto a single pole breaker which is only feeding half of the panel. The stab the second breaker is on is not live. If you take the breaker in the second space out and reinstall it in the 3rd space, I'll bet you have power.

Unless this is a special 120V only subpanel for this application. I have never seen one, but I don't do much work on trailers.
Yes a 120v panel you can see the solid bus bar along the whole top of the first picture.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:44 PM   #44
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If you have a loose connection or other problem upstream that makes it difficult for current to flow (imposes resistance) then the voltage drops noticeably as you try to draw more amperes (plug in more things and turn them on). So long as the actual number of amperes is less than the breaker rating, the breaker does not trip. If you had a voltmeter instead of the neon light you would have seen the voltage drop as you turned on more things.

The easiest way to actually measure the current (in amperes) is to get a "clamp on ammeter". This has jaws that gently clamp on the wire you are measuring. There are other kinds of ammeters that need care in using to avoid burning them out.

Or, if you plug in and turn on a light fixture with a 100 watt bulb in it, and it comes on full brightness, then it's drawing about 4/5'th of an ampere and that much current is being drawn (pulled or pushed if you insist) through the wires leading to that light, no ifs, ands, or buts. (volts times amps equals watts). Two such light bulbs and your're drawing 1-3/5 amps.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:34 PM   #45
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rrolleston... I was only trying to show how I was getting voltage, not the amps I needed and were said to be running. The last photo is to show how I got no voltage by turning on another breaker. Too bad it was a crappy photo.

AllanJ awesome. Didn't even think of that. Well havent needed that idea till now. Guess it's why I came to you. Does an "anmeter" actually tell you how many amps are running through the line while being hot and running something. In other words... cuz I'm a moron. Would I have to throw a hairdryer in the bathtub, turn on the microwave, electric water heater, and the electric stove to figure out how much amps are being pulled? Are you saying by burning them out means by push/pull of amps?

Now to the sarcasm

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