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Old 02-08-2013, 04:20 PM   #16
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


Humboldt weather ? As in Humboldt, CA ?
That would mean a corrosion problem is the most likely culprit. My guess it is on the park side. Could be in the trailer, but based on what you have said so far, the park side is more likely.

Make a deal with the owner/mgr of the park. If the problem is on your side, you pay. On his side he pays. But you call the electrician. Otherwise you might end up with a handyman.

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Old 02-08-2013, 04:25 PM   #17
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Ok that's enough poking the hornets nest.
You can lead a horse to water, well you know the rest.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:32 PM   #18
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k_buz: He apparently thinks your "bad underground" comment had something to do with grounds/grounding.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Ok that's enough poking the hornets nest.
You can lead a horse to water, well you know the rest.
... And if you let him go in deep enough he may drown?
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:51 PM   #20
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But you can't make him think, or something like that.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:17 PM   #21
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


If you plugged the trailer's power cord (or jumpered it) to a different receptacle (in the house or wherever) powered through a circuit different from the receptacle it was plugged into originally, does the power inside the trailer work okay?

If you connected the trailer up the way it was originally with only a few amperes of usage okay and more amperes causing problems, can you observe problems occurring gradually if you get a number of floor standing or table light fixtures and plug them in and turn them on one at a time? It is not unheard of for an underground cable perhaps from a meter to a house or from a centrally located panel in a trailer park to an individual trailer hookup to rust out in a manner that you can draw only a few amperes before something goes wrong.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitfire_onme View Post

Here is my question. Is it possible with no fuses tripping, that the thing outside is pushing a few amps to the trailer and then as soon as I hook up another breaker it's too much for it so nothing runs

Thanks for any help on this in advance.

M
YES !
A bad/loose joint somewhere will intruduce resistance
which will limit current.
low load = little loss
big load = big loss

It also means there is the very real potential for a fire !
get it fixed asap !
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:44 PM   #23
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


Quote:
Originally Posted by k_buz View Post
I'm gonna say you have a bad underground.
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Originally Posted by Spitfire_onme View Post
K buz..... Hmmm, if this test doesn't go right, you might have a good point there. BUT THEN, the ground is going to the outlet,, argh still might be right at the plug in box. The ground at the box that it plugs into... gotta check that.
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....


That had me rolling on the floor
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:46 AM   #24
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is everyone being a jerk around here trying to take my crown.

Said I'd post pics, so here you go. Doesn't matter though. My theory was right. Till Pg&e cuts main power... pull that breaker and check the main plug. These photos are obviously so you guys can make fun of me in the future.

Thanks allanJ
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:00 AM   #25
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


Can't post the rest of the photos until I get the girls number blurred off of it.

Anyways, it totally turned out that the breaker was pulling off a 30 amp that was only giving it like two or three.

I know the tester is cheap.. get over it.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:49 AM   #26
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Just proves you should not be doing this. And electrician could have turned the breaker off and checked out those receptacles.

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:52 AM   #27
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


Did you try testing the receptacle with that breaker to the right on? That receptacle to the left is a 240v receptacle. And I am betting one side of that receptacle is on that breaker that is off.

The receptacle on the right won't work till you turn that GFCI breaker on.

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Old 02-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #28
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When a receptacle delivers full voltage for a small number of amperes and low voltage when you try to draw more amperes, it is not due to the amperes rating of a fuse or circuit breaker. Rather there is a bad connection somewhere, anywhere from inside the breaker to the inside the receptacle inclusive. The bad connection will get hotter the more amperes you try to draw. If it is indoors, it can start a fire. You can turn off the power and open up the outlet box and check for loose screw connections notably if that felt hot to the touch.

Sometimes woodchucks or other animals chew an underground cable, or the plastic insulation biodegrades by itself. Aluminum wire left exposed to moisture can corrode surprisingly fast, and underground it can turn into a whitish paste that may conduct a few amperes with little ill effect. Shortly thereafter (faster under use and load and heating) the paste commingles with the earth and the connection breaks altogether. (The earth above the break will probably not erupt as if a land mine was buried there.)

The most likely place for a breaker loose connection is underneath where it clips onto the fin (stab) that is live. Should that fin or nearby fins get deformed from prolonged overheating, the affected breaker slot(s) as well as the breaker(s) will become unusable.

Power plugs might also have loose connections, usually caused by tugging on the cord. This will also cause overheating, and can damage the receptacle it is plugged into.
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Last edited by AllanJ; 02-09-2013 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:34 AM   #29
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Trailer Trash Main Power Problems


I'm pretty much done with this thread, but I have to point out the professional meter the OP is using.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:50 AM   #30
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Is the power plug for the trailer cord the original plug, or did you or someone substitute a different plug to fit the receptacle?

A 120 volt only appliance or device or light or trailer may not be plugged into a 240 volt only receptacle. The ground wire (equipment grounding conductor) or ground pin of a plug or ground slot on a receptacle may not be used as a neutral to obtain 120 volts with.

You will be confused if you tried to use ground of the large receptacle as a neutral and there was a defect in the grounding (EGC, etc.) and the 120 volt receptacle next to it was working correctly with proper hot and neutral.

You need to have a voltmeter (or multimeter) to be sure that voltages are correct. Just a neon test light is not good enough.

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