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Old 02-21-2012, 09:50 PM   #1
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


I just installed a new sub panel in my mobile home and current home panel is just going to be for lights and outlets for small stuff no large appliances. All of the homes large appliances are easily reached from new sub panel so they will get wired in right away.

I would like to temporarily feed these at most six small branch circuits 15 and 20 amps with the 30 amp feed while I slowly move all the branch circuits by feeding the old sub panel with the old dryer feed that could easily reach into both panels without being spliced.

Small home I doubt I would ever even use close to the 30 amps while I move everything. There will be a new 30 amp double pole breaker in both panels and 30 amp breaker will be secured so it can't come out.

Old sub panel is completely disconnected from the main panel.

Is there anything I should keep in mind or watch out for that I may not have thought of.

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Old 02-22-2012, 11:49 AM   #2
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


I see no issue as long as its temporary. I have done this myself with no problems. I even ran a whole apartment with number 10 for a number of days. When I did my service upgrade I used the same power (wire /OCPD) and meter until the power company came to switch out the meter. You are good.

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Old 02-22-2012, 04:44 PM   #3
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


I was actually able to complete this today because the wire that used to feed the dryer actually feeds through the wall right behind the new panel snipped out a couple knockouts cut the wire fed it in and wired them into the two 30 amp breakers. One will continue to feed the dryer and one will be the temporary feed for the old sub panel. Lucky I had a bunch of spare new 30 amp double pole breakers.

There may end up being a couple circuits that stay in that panel for a while till we actually get into tearing into some parts of the home but it's wired properly and has the correct size breakers in there for each branch circuit with copper wire. Grounded to the mobile home frame and water main.



The two quad 40 amp breakers on the bottom are to power my electric tankless water heater. And the washer hookups have to be moved.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:17 AM   #4
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


I had to upgrade my "vacation/project" home's electrical service from 100 amp to 200 amp just to use my whole-house HWOD unit...it required two 60 amp 240V breakers and the old panel just didn't have the ooomph. Because the house had last been rewired in the mid-1960's, it had a small breaker box, a 6 circuit one, which I replaced with a 40 circuit box, allowing for future expansion of the electrical system in the house.

When I pulled wires into the basement I ran a whole bunch of extra 120V 10/3 circuits, believing I could install a couple of 30 amp outlets for my power-hungry home entertainment system....NOT !! It seems that the outlet for a 30 amp/120V circuit looks nothing like a regular duplex outlet (which I found in 20 amp and 15 amp versions, but not 30).

In the end, I pulled enough 8/3 w/ground wire for 5 more 50 amp/240v circuits and enough 10/3 for 6 more 30 amp/120V circuits.

I mention this b/c since the 10/3 circuits cannot be used for standard outlets, I might well attach small sub-panels to all of those circuits. The 240V circuits would be used for an outdoor hot-tub (would not need a sub-panel for that one, but I put a 50 amp "spa panel" where the hot-tub will be located outside, anyway....seemed to be the right thing to do ) and for two future point-of-use HWOD units (one to be used for a closed-circuit radiant floor heating loop), as well as a 240V circuit in the basement workshop. Sub-panels on the 240V circuits would allow me to branch out with various 240V/120V circuits, whereas the 10/3 sub-panels would feed a couple of 120V 14/3 15 amp lighting circuits each .

BTW...when you've managed your rewiring on your home, you can leave your 10/3 wire in place, put a 20 amp breaker in the panel slot that feeds it, and still use it for a circuit.
I was amazed at how inexpensive sub-panels are in the hardware outlets!

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Is there anything I should keep in mind or watch out for that I may not have thought of.
To answer your question, if it were me doing this project I'd be sure to run any 240V circuits with 8/3 w/ground wiring rather than 8/2 w/ground...a lot of the newer 240V appliances need the 3rd insulated wire.

Cheers, and good luck with your project!

Dugly

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Old 02-23-2012, 09:45 AM   #5
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


house with a dozen sub panels I bet thats a sight that must be seen.
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:18 AM   #6
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


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house with a dozen sub panels I bet thats a sight that must be seen.
Well, none of the circuits have a sub-panel on them yet (except for the outdoor hot-tub "spa panel"), but some of them will when I get back there in April.

My family bought the home in the mid-60s...it was built sometime around 1922, or so the abstract says, but I think it was a "basement" house on the central plains of SW KS long before that.

When we bought it, it had knob & tube wiring, that's what my mother replaced with the 6 circuit breaker box before we moved in. Many of the knobs and tubes are still in place in the ground floor's floor joists.

We've become a very power hungry society. When electricity started to spread across the U.S., it wasn't unusual for each room to have only one outlet....now we seem to want one on each stud in the walls.

In my case, though, it wasn't hunger for power that fueled my huge upgrade....it was the money hungry natural gas company. I visit the home only about 90 days a year, usually 60 days in late spring/early summer and 30 days in the fall. Before I inherited the home it was hooked up to natural gas, so when I returned I went to the natural gas company to explain my situation. I was informed that even if I didn't use one precious cubic foot of their product my monthly meter fee would be $40 (for which there is a specific amount of natural gas included). I didn't want to pay that $40/month for the 9 months I'm not there, so I inquired about disconnect/reconnect fees---$80 for each service.

So I went all-electric.

My electric coop provides me with a special rate for being all-electric (at the time I think it was around $.08/KWH, but it has probably increased since) and after I reach 750 KWH of usage they reduce my rate by $.03/KWH. I have done that only once--a VERY cold March and I had only 3 electric room heaters to heat the whole house. The electric coop offered VERY reasonable disconnect/reconnect fees, but I leave the electricity on all the time and just turn it off at the meter box's panel while I'm out of town. The monthly meter fee is only $10 (and it's only that much b/c I donate $1/month to help support those elderly residents who can't pay their bills). I can be gone for 7 months, turn the electricity on at the meter when I get to the house, and walk inside and have a hot shower IMMEDIATELY...no need to wait for a tank of water to heat, no need to have enriched the POCO to keep a tank of water hot in my absence, just hot water that keeps on coming as long as I pay my electrical bill. Gotta LOVE that HWOD unit !!

Cheers!

Dugly

Last edited by YerDugliness; 02-23-2012 at 10:22 AM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:40 AM   #7
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Temporarily feeding a sub panel with 10-3 30 amp breaker


We like our tankless water heater. We have a 28.8kw model.

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