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-   -   Switched outlet series (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/switched-outlet-series-88931/)

Overkll 12-06-2010 11:12 PM

Switched outlet series
 
First post but long-time lurker! Wiring question:

I have power going to outlet 1 (14/2) -> parallel through outlet -> outlet 2/switch (full) using 14/2

I want to switch the outlet 1 too (for a second floor lamp). Both will be full switched.

Tried pigtailing hots and running the neutrals through the outlet 1. CFLs flickered. One will work at a time, but not both. Both need to be plugged in to complete the circuit though.

Pigtailing hots and pigtailing neutrals at outlet 1 works perfectly (essentially removing the outlet 1).

Where am I going wrong?

Wired my whole basement previously and passed inspection, but this has me stumped for some reason. Should have worked right away.

Looking to wire:

Power (14/2) - wall sconce - wall sconce - outlet - outlet -switch ALL operated by the end switch. Fishing new wire is not a viable option in this case.

Thanks!

Overkll 12-06-2010 11:15 PM

Cliff notes:

Power (14/2) - LAMP1 - LAMP2 - OUTLET 1 (Hot) - OUTLET 2 (Full switch) - SWITCH

How can I wire EVERYTHING to be operated by the switch?

Thanks!

AllanJ 12-06-2010 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overkll (Post 547120)
First post but long-time lurker! Wiring question:

I have power going to outlet 1 (14/2) -> parallel through outlet -> outlet 2/switch (full) using 14/2

I want to switch the outlet 1 too (for a second floor lamp). Both will be full switched.

Tried pigtailing hots and running the neutrals through the outlet 1. CFLs flickered. One will work at a time, but not both. Both need to be plugged in to complete the circuit though.

Pigtailing hots and pigtailing neutrals at outlet 1 works perfectly (essentially removing the outlet 1).

Where am I going wrong?

Wired my whole basement previously and passed inspection, but this has me stumped for some reason. Should have worked right away.

Looking to wire:

Power (14/2) - wall sconce - wall sconce - outlet - outlet -switch ALL operated by the end switch. Fishing new wire is not a viable option in this case.

Thanks!

You need 3 wire cable between the box where the power comes in and the box where the switch cable goes into. Alternatively a second 2 wire cable betwee the box where the power comes in and the box where the switch cable goes into.

Otherwise you cannot do what you described.

oberkc 12-07-2010 07:52 AM

I am with AllanJ on this, with one caveat: this probably cannot be done with CONVENTIONAL WIRING TECHNIQUES, given that you have only 2-conductor wiring between boxes.

If you are willing to purchase devices (switches, outlets, etc) that can communicate with each other via powerline or RF, then your options are a bit less limiting. Figure about $50 per device and five devices (two lights, two outlets, one switch).

Overkll 12-07-2010 08:38 AM

Thanks for the replies! Not the easy answer I was looking for, but about what I expected.

Putting the second outlet into series and using identical bulbs for each of the fixtures works. Would using the same wattage on each fixture work? There is power, but the two lamps that I have been using are tri-light CFL. Turning the tri-light turns both lamps off and on in various states of brightness (voltage through first fixture is not constant).

I ask about this second method since it would essentially replicate a series of pot lights with no through power. One light goes out, they all go out.


The difficulty in running new wire is the bottom plate of one wall is parallel to the basement joists and blocked from access due to the second joist and the top plate is inaccessible due to the shallow roof slope. Going to eventually re-wire the whole house, but was hoping to get this to work for now. Original sconces were source-switched and basically unused due to location.

Thanks again!


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