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Old 02-15-2010, 05:39 PM   #1
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Subpanel question


I have a 200amp main panel, adding a 60 amp subpanel in the attached garage for more lights and 110 and 220 outlets. I bought a Cutler-Hammer CH type panel at Home Depot and found that it has a 100 amp main in it vs. main lugs. Is this OK assuming I have the 60 amp breaker in the main box? If not, can I swap in a 60 amp breaker in the subpanel in place of the 100?

Also, if I plan on plugging in a fridge in the garage do I need a dedicated outlet?

Thanks!
Scott

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Old 02-15-2010, 05:49 PM   #2
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You can keep the 100 main breaker in the sub and limit it to 60 amps with the breaker in your main panel. (thanks to the folks on these boards for teaching me that!)

I'd put the fridge on a dedicated outlet. It's not like you'll be short of breaker space...

I got tons of good info a few weeks ago in this thread. You might want to read it if you have any questions about installing it. I haven't done mine yet, but it's the exact same scenario you have: 200A main, 60 Amp panel in an attached garage.

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Old 02-15-2010, 06:39 PM   #3
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You can keep the 100 main breaker in the sub and limit it to 60 amps with the breaker in your main panel. (thanks to the folks on these boards for teaching me that!)
I can second this, also having just recently learned this on the boards. Just make sure you separate the neutral and grounding bars from each other.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:58 PM   #4
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Just make sure you separate the neutral and grounding bars from each other.
This is very important - use a continuity tester at any time (even before the panel is mounted on the wall) and touch one end to the neutral bar and one to the ground bar. They should NOT be connected to each other. The only place they can (and should) connect to each other is in your main panel (not a subpanel).
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:00 PM   #5
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Subpanel question


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I can second this, also having just recently learned this on the boards. Just make sure you separate the neutral and grounding bars from each other.
I "Third" that (if there is such an expression)! What is not allowed is protecting a lower capacity line with a higher capacity breaker. There are, of course exceptions to that rule, too. But not in ordinary feeders.!
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:18 PM   #6
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Subpanel question


Actually, ordinary feeders can utilize the tap conductor rules -- depending on circumstances.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:07 PM   #7
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Actually, ordinary feeders can utilize the tap conductor rules -- depending on circumstances.
...As I said!
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Old 02-16-2010, 03:33 AM   #8
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As for the refrigerator - while you are doing the wiring and it would be easy to do, I would put it on a separate circuit. This way if something else on a shared circuit would trip a breaker, the refrigerator would not be affected.
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Old 02-16-2010, 06:32 AM   #9
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Subpanel question


Thanks to all - much better responses than I had thought I would get! Andrew - I did read your thread which I found right after I put up my question - there's very good info in there.

I mounted the subpanel, receptacle boxes and ran quite a bit of the wire yesterday including the #6 from the main panel - that was expensive! My house is new and only the connecting wall to the house is drywalled so some of that is coming off to allow access. Most was pretty easy but I found a section where for some reason they used a lot of construction adhesive to hold the drywall on - that was not fun.

I did remove the strap to one of the buss bars - I'm hearing that I should also double-check continuity between them to make sure and I will do that.

I'm also running a separate circuit for the fridge - good advice! Plus I decided to add a junction box for one of my 220 circuits over on the side of the garage in case I need to tap into it later and add another receptacle without opening the walls again. Of course I'll probably default to conduit then but adding a box now is easy and gets me much closer.

Thansk again for the advice and comments.

Scott

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