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Old 08-01-2012, 09:09 PM   #16
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Subpanel to outdoor workshop


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Isnt it crazy how they can change something so simple that was never an issue to begin with?
This change has always aggravated me because it's basically saying that it's perfectly safe to put 50A thru a #6 today, but tomorrow (when the code changes to the new cycle) it's dangerous and illegal to do it.

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Old 08-01-2012, 09:10 PM   #17
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This change has always aggravated me because it's basically saying that it's perfectly safe to put 50A thru a #6 today, but tomorrow (when the code changes to the new cycle) it's dangerous and illegal to do it.
Exactly, and to back paddle the way they did makes someone look, well, not so smart.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:24 PM   #18
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We have to revisit the existing Range wire first, is this a SER type cable?
If it is, and it is #6 AL, the largest breaker you will be allowed is 40 amps...


EDIT-
(This is kind of touchy because of the code changes throughout the years) I would leave the existing 50 amp breaker and run #8 CU. THWN AWG out to the workshop....)
I'm somewhat concerned about splicing the AL and I'm rethinking that.

So, if I run a new circuit in CU from the main sub to the workshop sub, #8 would be big enough? I think I'd need a #8/3 w/G UF cable in the crawl and in underground PVC, right? It will be about 55' in all. Would 1 1/4" PVC Sch 40 meet code for UF 4wire? I know UF is direct burial, but can it go in conduit for a short run as well without derating?
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:27 PM   #19
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I'm somewhat concerned about splicing the AL and I'm rethinking that.

So, if I run a new circuit in CU from the main sub to the workshop sub, #8 would be big enough? I think I'd need a #8/3 w/G UF cable in the crawl and in underground PVC, right? It will be about 55' in all. Would 1 1/4" PVC Sch 40 meet code for UF 4wire?
Just use the dual rated split bolts, you wont have any issues, I do it on almost every generator I install, and other similar items, the alloys in todays aluminum is nothing from the day of the old....

If you do go the UF route, I dont think I would pull it in conduit, too much friction, if you are going to use conduit, use THWN....
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:36 PM   #20
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Just use the dual rated split bolts, you wont have any issues, I do it on almost every generator I install, and other similar items, the alloys in todays aluminum is nothing from the day of the old....

If you do go the UF route, I dont think I would pull it in conduit, too much friction, if you are going to use conduit, use THWN....
My home was built in 1985 and they used AL for the SE, dryer and range. Everything else is CU.

I'll be having this job inspected by the city, so, if the code on AL has changed limiting it to 40A, I'm sure they'll make me take out the 50A breaker. I'll see what the inspector allows and plan accordingly. Not sure what I may do.

If I use THWN in the conduit, I would need to do a cable or UF in the crawl. Wouldn't this mean a J-box splice between the two in the crawl as it goes outside and underground?
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:39 PM   #21
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If I use THWN in the conduit, I would need to do a cable or UF in the crawl. Wouldn't this mean a J-box splice between the two in the crawl as it goes outside and underground?
Yep, not sure whats easier for you... i cant see all your obstacles, im sure i could give you a hundred ways to do the same job, some are easier than others.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:56 PM   #22
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These are also dual rated for AL & CU and you dont have to tape them:

http://www.polarisconnectors.com/pdf...IPL_series.pdf
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:59 PM   #23
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These are also dual rated for AL & CU and you dont have to tape them:

http://www.polarisconnectors.com/pdf...IPL_series.pdf
I love these, but expensive compared to split bolts....

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