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Old 02-02-2009, 03:51 PM   #1
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Sub panel selection?


I am adding a sub panel to my electrical and I wanted to know if it matters whether I use a main lug load center or can I use a main breaker type panel that is usually used as the service entrance? I am looking at the Square D QwikPak because it comes with breakers included and will keep the cost down. I am looking at the QP32100 from Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...k=P_PartNumber

Not sure if the link will work but its 100amp, 32 spaces, max 54 circuits.

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Old 02-02-2009, 04:05 PM   #2
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Sub panel selection?


I love using Square D panels in my opinion they are the best panels around . Yes you can use that panel if you want too.

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Old 02-02-2009, 05:02 PM   #3
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Sub panel selection?


Since the subpanel will be next to my existing panel, am I right thinking that I need to remove the grounding strap/screw from the panel, and keep the grounds and neutrals seperate?
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Old 02-02-2009, 05:04 PM   #4
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Yes on all "sub panels" regardless if they are in the same room or not with the main panel have to have there grounds and neutrals seperat
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:58 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rovers1973 View Post
Since the subpanel will be next to my existing panel, am I right thinking that I need to remove the grounding strap/screw from the panel, and keep the grounds and neutrals seperate?
Make sure this doesn't remove the ground to the case
On my 100a Square D I had to cut the bar in 1/2 & re-install so that the grounding bar would be grounded to the case

I have 4 Square D panels - makes it easy to swap breakers if needed between one panel & the other
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:47 PM   #6
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Sub panel selection?


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On my 100a Square D I had to cut the bar in 1/2 & re-install so that the grounding bar would be grounded to the case
Let me get this straight. You took the factory installed Neutral bar out and cut it in half to make it be a split ground/neutral bar????

Not only does that void the UL listing of the panel, but its far from being the "proper" way to install a separate ground bar. There are kits out there designed for the Square D panels that screw right into the back of the panel and are intended for grounding only! So long as the bar is properly mounted to the panel, its sufficiently grounded to the metal box. Remove the green bonding screw on the neutral bar (usually near the top where the service neutral attaches to the neutral lug) connect your wires and that's it.
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:55 PM   #7
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Sub panel selection?


What I did was under instruction from the Inspector
Talk to him

And no, it is not what you are stating
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Old 02-02-2009, 08:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
What I did was under instruction from the Inspector
Talk to him

And no, it is not what you are stating
Is this by chance a connecting bar that joins two separate bars on either side of the panel? That would be somewhat understandable, but you still shouldn't have to cut it, it should be a removable bar and one bus bar on either the left or the right should have a lug for connecting the neutral and the other should have a spot for the bonding screw to be installed.
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Old 02-02-2009, 08:24 PM   #9
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The inspector told you to cut a ground bar in half? Interesting....
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:01 PM   #10
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Sub panel selection?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rovers1973 View Post
Since the subpanel will be next to my existing panel, am I right thinking that I need to remove the grounding strap/screw from the panel, and keep the grounds and neutrals seperate?
Since this new sub panel will be inside the same building as the main service panel you do not need a main breaker. A lug panel is what you want.

The green bonding screw (included with panel) is not used. The neutral bus is insulated from the enclosure while the ground bus is not. Thats is right. Keep them seperated. Use 4 wires. The breaker in the main panel feeding the sub panel will be your disconnect. Make sure it is marked as such.
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:12 PM   #11
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you do not need a main breaker. A lug panel is what you want.
But.....a main breaker is acceptable......maybe even preferable.
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Old 02-03-2009, 03:36 PM   #12
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But.....a main breaker is acceptable......maybe even preferable.
Yes, as I stated in the first post, the main breaker version with included breakers makes it more cost effective for me, and I like the idea of having the seperate shutoff if I ever remove my old panel and make this one my SE panel (original one only has 20 spaces). I just wanted to make sure I did need to disconnect any banding etc between the neutral bar and the ground bar (ie neutral bar is insulated from the case) I will not be cutting any bars in half.

I do have a question regarding feeding the new sub panel. Since all my heavy load stuff (dryer, stoves etc) will stay on my existing panel and the new one will have mainly lights and plugs, will a 50 amp breaker be sufficient to feed it? If so, what copper wire size would I need? I am thinking #4?
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Old 02-03-2009, 03:42 PM   #13
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Nope... #6 copper will do with a #10 ground. 50 amps should power all the receptacles and lights you could ever want.
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Old 02-03-2009, 04:02 PM   #14
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Nope... #6 copper will do with a #10 ground. 50 amps should power all the receptacles and lights you could ever want.
Thanks Stubbie
There will also be 1 microwave plug, 1 whirlpool tub pump, 1 fridge and......I think that's it for bigger stuff. Any concerns with that?
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Old 02-03-2009, 04:26 PM   #15
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Sub panel selection?


Unless you plan on running the microwave, taking a dip in the whirl pool, getting a beer out of the fridge so often it doesn't cycle and all the lights on while blow drying your hair all at the same time I don't think you will have a problem...

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