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Old 06-17-2008, 10:31 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Evnldr View Post
this panel is supplied via a dual 30A (just like the one in the pic) breaker from the main panel using 10/3+ ground and another solo ground


With One 20A how many other 15's can i run SAFELY ..

I'm replacing the panel with a new one ALL lines will be on it;s own

The garage has 7 recpt total and 4 lights and one flood light the 20 will run my 110 compressor and other saws ect..
You say you are going to replace the panel, right? The existing feeder cable is NM (romex). If this cable is buried or in conduit it is a violation because NM is not acceptable for wet locations.
So, unless this 10/3 NM cable is connected to the the correct conductors somewhere, it must be abandoned or removed. Now, you need a new panel and a new feeder.
In this scenario I would replace the feeder (if it's NM) all the way back to the house. Install a 60 amp 2 pole breaker in the main panel. Run # 4/3 UF, or if in conduit use THWN or THHW #6, four wires.

Now your breaker limit is 6 handles. If you have more than six breaker handles you must use a main breaker in this new sub panel. I would not want to be limited in regards to breakers. You can even get a lug panel and install your own main, but it will be less money if you just get a main breaker panel.

If the existing panel is in good shape you can continue to use it, as I am certain it's rating far exceeds 30 amps.
It looks like at minimum a 60 amp panel. Check it out.

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Old 06-17-2008, 02:23 PM   #17
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Sub Panel


Ok i have read alot now can somebody look over my sub panel.. i wanna know if it looks ok


Should i shorten the feed wires?
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Sub Panel-lug.jpg  

Last edited by Evnldr; 06-17-2008 at 02:26 PM. Reason: added last line
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Old 06-17-2008, 03:25 PM   #18
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It looks fine to me.
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Old 06-17-2008, 03:42 PM   #19
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I was kinda unsure.. working in the Car audio field Red and black unnerved me..

I was told the red and black in the panel don't matter witch hot side they are on,, they are both equally hot and in a dual breaker one hot is taken from each side.. and if i unhooked a hot every other breaker would not work?

I'm getting a book to read as soon as i get the $$
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:18 PM   #20
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The only comment I have is about the silver looking wire. Is that Aluminum wire?

If it is, then maybe you want to consider replacing it.
It just may be tinned copper, in that case it is go to go!
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Last edited by jbfan; 06-17-2008 at 04:22 PM. Reason: to add the comment!
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:03 PM   #21
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It's all coming out the AL i just removed a ton of it it;s like 15FT funning toa AL / CU outlet after the outlet it's all CU i guess it;s a safe connection for now will probably be removed in the coming weeks Only load on that circut is my over head lights.. after i get my 3 wire done it will be gone

Over head lights (2 Dual Florescent lights) own 15Amp i hate tripping a breaker ans have the lights go out lol...

Can i run them tandem 2 Lights total 8 florescent bulbs 2 breakers for 4 lights sounds silly instead of a J-Box at 6$ a breaker i guess i will just run 2 lol
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:46 AM   #22
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I may be mistaken but I believe your bonding means is installed. The slot screw just left of the neutral lug. If that is the main bonding jumper it needs to be removed.
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:47 AM   #23
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Good catch Stubbie, I believe you're right. My old eyes missed that.
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evnldr View Post
I was told the red and black in the panel don't matter witch hot side they are on,, they are both equally hot and in a dual breaker one hot is taken from each side.. and if i unhooked a hot every other breaker would not work?
That is correct. Every other breaker is on a different leg of the power. So keep that in mind to balance your loads to the extent possible. In your picture, both loads are on one leg, with nothing on the other leg. Do you see what I am talking about?
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:50 AM   #25
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I may be mistaken but I believe your bonding means is installed. The slot screw just left of the neutral lug. If that is the main bonding jumper it needs to be removed.
I think that is the screw that holds the neutral bar on,,,

remove ,, explain please
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:29 AM   #26
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There is a screw that comes with the panel. It goes through the neutral bar and threads through the back of the enclosure. If you did not install the screw, good, if you did remove it.

I still want to know how this NM feeder is installed? Is it buried or buried in conduit? Please let us know.
The panel looks good. Good job.
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:54 AM   #27
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There is a screw that comes with the panel. It goes through the neutral bar and threads through the back of the enclosure. If you did not install the screw, good, if you did remove it.

I still want to know how this NM feeder is installed? Is it buried or buried in conduit? Please let us know.
The panel looks good. Good job.
I don't know it comes out of the wall in the garage So i don't know it was in the house when they bought it in 1981
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:02 AM   #28
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looks like the NM is wire nutted to another kinda wire at the conduit access box out side the garage. the access box is 6ft high.


its not my house so i cant start ripping all the walls out lol
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:05 AM   #29
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No, this screw comes with the new panel. (small plastic bag). It is usually pushed through a piece of cardboard with instructions on it. The neutral bar is insulated from the enclosure. All the screw does is bond the the neutral bar to the enclosure. You don't want to bond the neutral. The ground bar is not insulated from the enclosure. The mounting screws do the bonding on the ground bar.
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:23 AM   #30
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That screw does not hold your neutral bar, The rivet below it does that function. That screw threads into the raised swaged hole directly behind it and bonds the metal of the panel to the neutral bar. You need to remove it or you will have neutral current returning on your feeder equipment ground wire.

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