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Old 12-29-2011, 12:23 PM   #1
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


Hello -

I have a light switch that controls a socket, and I do not want it to. We just moved into this place, and the location is just pretty awful. The socket will either have an alarm clock or a computer plugged into it, and I do not want either of those controlled by a light switch.

This is brand new construction, so the wiring is also new. Is it possible to remove the wall plate, remove the light switch, connect all the wires that were attached to the light switch, and then install a wall plate that covers the existing light switch?

I don't really care if the light switch is there or not, I just don't want a socket controlled by a switch. Why builders install these on houses built for spec is beyond me.

Thanks in advance!

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Old 12-29-2011, 12:36 PM   #2
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


If this room do not have any ceiling luminaire at all then one of the wall socket ( recpetale ) have to be switched for luminaire purpose.

but if you do have ceiling luminaire in there and have switched socket there then you can have a optional to change that to unswitched,

Merci,
Marc

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Old 12-29-2011, 12:49 PM   #3
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


This is a wall receptacle, correct?

One of the receptacles is controlled by the wall switch and the other receptacle in the same box is not controlled by the wall switch, is this correct?

Locate and turn off the related circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
Remove the light switch and remove the wires from the light switch.
Properly connect those two wires together using a wire-nut, wire-cap, wire-connector, whatever you may call it. Curl the wires back into the switch box and cover it with a solid (blank) cover plate.

Turn the breaker on again and you should have what you want.

The split receptacle is intended to be used with a table or floor lamp in that location so that when you turn on the switch you have light in the room. That's all it is for and they are done everywhere.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:21 AM   #4
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


Thanks for the feedback, but I guess I should clarify my original post.

In my bedroom there are overhead lights on their own switch. Aditionally there is one wall receptacle (two sockets) that are controlled by a separate light switch. Because there are built-in overhead lights, there is no code that requires this receptacle to be controlled by a switch.

What I would like to do is one of the following:

1. (Most preferable) Of the two sockets in the receptacle, I would like the top one to be "hot" - always on - and the bottom one to be controlled by the switch.

2. (Least preferable, but okay with) Eliminate the need for the switch all together. Make both sockets "hot."

Is this something I can do myself, and if so, are there diagrams on the web? Also, do I need to purchase special receptacles for this, or is it just a matter of wiring correctly? Again, this is brand new construction so everything is new (wiring, switches, receptacles).

I've looked around the web, but I've sort of come to a dead end.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:38 AM   #5
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


If all you want to do is to change which half is switched you only need to change the two wires on the brass side of the receptacle.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:43 AM   #6
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


Right now they're both switched. I'd assume that if I switched the wires nothing would change...
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:58 AM   #7
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


Is there a black or red wire in the back of the box just spliced through?
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:42 AM   #8
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


It will only be possible if there is a hot wire in the box that is not switched. If there is then take the receptacle and cut the tab between the gold screws. Put the new wire on one of the screws. Put the existing wire on the other screw.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:12 AM   #9
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


Quote:
Originally Posted by theshiv View Post
Thanks for the feedback, but I guess I should clarify my original post.

In my bedroom there are overhead lights on their own switch. Aditionally there is one wall receptacle (two sockets) that are controlled by a separate light switch. Because there are built-in overhead lights, there is no code that requires this receptacle to be controlled by a switch.

What I would like to do is one of the following:

1. (Most preferable) Of the two sockets in the receptacle, I would like the top one to be "hot" - always on - and the bottom one to be controlled by the switch.

2. (Least preferable, but okay with) Eliminate the need for the switch all together. Make both sockets "hot."

Is this something I can do myself, and if so, are there diagrams on the web? Also, do I need to purchase special receptacles for this, or is it just a matter of wiring correctly? Again, this is brand new construction so everything is new (wiring, switches, receptacles).

I've looked around the web, but I've sort of come to a dead end.

Thanks in advance!
Only if they have wired the outlet with 12/3 or 14/3 with ground could you change it to be both switched and hot. Basically you know how each outlet has 2 wires and a ground. You would need 3 wires and a ground. The likelihood of that is slim, but you can pull the switch and outlets out and take a peek. If you dont have 3 wires and a ground then you cant do a combination switched and always on and you will just have to remove the switch, wire it for always on and be done. Just make sure you have all your grounds, hots and nuetrals figured out and work with the breaker off.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:12 PM   #10
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Stopping the Light Switch from Controlling Socket


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Originally Posted by theshiv View Post
Why builders install these on houses built for spec is beyond me.
It's cheaper than installing a ceiling box and running wires from the wall switch to that box. By not having a ceiling box it also avoids the cost of having to install even minimal ceiling light fixtures to make the house marketable. It saves the builder $200 to $400 per house, but can cost the buyer thousands of dollars to retrofit or correct, especially if walls and ceilings need to be opened and subsequently patched to modify wiring.

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