Steam shower hook up

James Con

I am installing a steam shower in our new Masterbath and was wondering if you guys had some input as far as keeping the install safe and within code or better. The steam shower specs are as follows. Steam generator is 110v 3000 Watts and Needs to be hardwired there is 10 gauge wire coming out of the unit ( see pic) And the water pump is 110v 900 watts 1.2 HP and is corded. I am installing it in a framed out area in the bath with an access door to the whole back side of the unit. Should I have a means of disconnect in back of the unit since there is gonna be access. I will have a separate 20 amp circuit for the pump and a separate 30 amp circuit for the steam generator, Both GFCI breakers. The shower is approx. 30 feet from the load center. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

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James Con

Any help out there. Looking to push forward this weekend. Thanks.

Billy_Bob

I would go to your local electrical inspector's office and ask what they want for this install. The inspectors in my area have office hours where you can go and ask questions.

These are the folks who are going to ok the work, so best to get it straight from the "horse" I say. (Before doing any work...)

Take plenty of pictures. Also take paperwork/wiring diagrams for steam shower.

James Con

I wish it was that easy, But our town doesn't have an Electrical inspector. To much of a liability for the Township, so they say. They refer us to a private firm who handles the elec. inspections. And the inspector does'nt give info over the phone which I guess is a liability issue for him, or job security. I guess I 'll rough it in with a disconnect and call for the rough inspection and see what happens. Worst case scenerio I would have to pay for him to come back. Thanks

Speedy Petey

Yes, you need a means of disconnect for the steam. Most of us would simply use a $10 60A pull-out type disconnect for this.

The pump is cord and plug. That is your disconnect for that.

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James Con

I'm not familier with a pull out type disconnect, I'll try to Google one up. Is it like a lever type disconnect? But instead of a lever it has a push pull action.

jbfan

Ask for a 60 A/C disconnect!

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Billy_Bob

They make grey metal disconnect boxes which are about 8 inches by 6 inches (approx) and this looks like a fuse box from the outside. The cover lifts up from the bottom. However inside is just a black plastic square with a handle on it. You pull this out and it disconnects the power. You can also turn it 180 degrees, stick it back in and the power is "OFF".

The idea behind this is in the past someone servicing something would trun off the breaker. Then go somewhere else to work on something, then someone would come along and turn the breaker on! Zap!

So they came up with "lockouts" at the panel and disconnects where the equipment is located. So you can see that the equipment is disconnected right where you are working. Or take out the disconnect and carry it with you. (Sort of like pulling the coil wire in a truck - that truck is going nowhere!)

I think I saw one of these at "Home Deplete Your Bank Account". If not, then an electrical supply would have them.

Oh... Just remembered I have one in my shed, I'll go look at it...

Ok, it is actually 7" by 5" wide, cover opens from right, Square D, Cat #UFP222R Series G01

Google...

Here ya go...
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...k=P_PartNumber

James Con

Thanks for the link, Will that 240 v disconnect be ok for the steam generator which is 110v? I seen them at Lowes but I could only find the ones for 240v. Or does that mean it will handle up to 240v 60 amp.

Billy_Bob

What I think and what your inspector thinks might be two separate things!

I would suggest calling Square D and asking if this product can be used for your specific application of if they have something designed specifically for 110V(120V).

I can't imagine there being any problems with your using this disconnect or something similar. When pulling the handle, you would be in fact disconnecting power - making it safe for a service person to work on the equipment. But if you call Square D and they say it is OK or that nothing else is available, then you would have this to support your install.

Another thing you could do is call the manufacturer of the shower and pick their brains about this.

frenchelectrican

I just hope I am not too late to catch this real quick but the colour code on white cable it may get you off guard due I am from France so I am famiuar with colour code.

Bleu for netural

Brown for live { hot } conductor

Green with Yellow stripe for grounding

BUT let me warn you double check the name plate to make sure you are on proper voltage and look at wiring diagram to make sure you are safe on this set up due the connection.

Typically that wiring connection I gave ya that is normal European colour code and the Line to netural is useally 230~245 volt range and our Line to Netural is useally 120 volt range

Merci,Marc

James Con

Yeh, the color codes threw me for a little loop but I did triple check. The steam generator name plate clearly states 110v 50 - 60 Hz. And the manual states, Brown (L) > Blue (N) > Twin line (E) Ground .
I called the shower distributor in California and they said they been using a 30 amp rated wall switch usually on the wall near the shower. I'm asuming the switch has to be 5 feet from the shower. I don't know about a toggle switch though, What do you guys think? I really like the idea of the pull out disconnect but I still have to call Square D to confirm that I could use there 240v pull out disconnect for 110V. I guess until I talk to Square D I'll just run the cables for now. I'm all ears for anymore ideas. Thanks for the help

TazinCR

Why not just use a 30 amp outlet and plug?

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micromind

The voltage rating on all switching devices is a maximum. You could use a 120,000 volt switch to control a 12 volt circuit, but it'd be pretty spendy!

I would use the pull-out disconnect rather than the 30 amp switch. The reason being that you'd be pushing the 30 amp switch to close to its capacity, and the slightest loose connection will cause it to burn up eventually. Pushing a #10 solid wire back into the box after it's made up will likely cause the connection to loosen up a bit. The disconnect will be easier to hook up, and if you get the 60 amp one, it'll have an easy life. Get the non-fused one, you're already protected at the breaker.

Pull-out disconnects are commonly called A/C disconnects, we use them as disconnects on outdoor A/C units frequently.

Rob

Speedy Petey

Ummmm....COST!

What you propose is about a $50+ setup and more labor.

A pullout is $10 and less work.

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Sometimes I feel like if I answer any more questions it is like someone trying to climb over a fence to jump off a bridge and me giving them a boost.