Simple Question on Light Switch Series

hagler

Looking to install light switches that control a fixture for each stall in a horse barn I'm looking to wire.
Each stall will have its own separate switch that controls a single fixture over the stall.

Does anyone have a simple diagram or instructions on how to run one circuit for 4 of the stalls ---- This is a new horse barn, so I can run power from the panel to either the fixture or the switch at the beginning of the circuit (which is better?).

I'd like to know the correct switches to buy, wiring, and how to run power from one switch to the next through conduit---or to each fixture.

Seems like it might be easier to run power fixture to fixture and then drop down to each switch to control each fixture????
Please advise.
Thanks again!

Jim Port

The wiring could be done either way with the power to the switches first ot power to the fixtures and a switch loop. Depends on which is easier.

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Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments may apply. Check with your local building officials.

Ironlight

Dierte

What code cycle are you on?

Jim Port

With this being a horse barn I would expect a conduit system to protect the wiring. This would alleviate the need for a neutral at the switch locations.

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Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments may apply. Check with your local building officials.

hagler

Everything will be in conduit.
Why can I eliminate the neutral at the switches?
If I do eliminate it, what kind of wire to run from the fixture to the switch?

hagler

IronLight - in your diagram is the red a traveler and blue the hot?
Is this 3-wire running from switch to switch?
If so, is this where you would just eliminate the neutral - just pull it out of the jacket to eliminate or wire nut it?

Also, do you have a diagram for the same configuration, but power coming into the switch first?

Thank you.

Jim Port

The red is the constant hot. The blue is the switched hot.

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Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments may apply. Check with your local building officials.

hammerlane

try this:

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hagler

Sorry if I'm not seeing it in the diagram...but am I eliminating the neutral at the switch?
The blue switched hot is the neutral with black tape on it to signify that is hot?

And, am I running 3-wire romex from switch to switch/fixture....except the first switch where I can run 2-wire out of the switch because of the main (constant hot) coming into it?

Sorry if I'm asking simple questions....thanks for the time.

Jim Port

In conduit you run individual conductors, not cables. The neutral could stay at the lights.

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Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments may apply. Check with your local building officials.

AllanJ

It is more straightfoward to run the power to the first switch then run additional 2 conductor cable (or 2 conductors in conduit) from switch to switch.

Then add one 2 conductor cable from each switch up to its corresponding light.

For each cable or wire pair up to the light, connect its black wire to the switch. Connect a short (six inch) black wire (pigtail) to the other black wires (if more than one) and connect the free end to the other switch terminal. This last step is needed because you may not put two wire ends under one screw unless there are ridges to keep the wires from slipping out without being wrapped around and just before the screw is tightened.

Connect all the white wires together. Connect all the ground wires (bare or green) together but not to the white wires.

This is depicted in one diagram above. No black pigtail is needed at the last switch because there is only one end that needs to go under each screw.

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hammerlane

Correct...I got carried away when adding the yellow paint as wire-nuts

hammerlane

If you did all the runs in romex(cable)

In my diagram above at Switch #1 there would be 3 cables at the switch box:
1. is incoming line power
2. is outgoing load power and neutral to the light
3. is the continuation of the incoming power which goes to Switch #2 & #3

At Switch #2 there would also be 3 cables:
1. is the continuation of cable #3 at Switch #1, this supplies power to Switch #2 & #3
2. is outgoing load power and neutral to the light
3. is the continuation of the incoming power which goes to Switch #3

At Switch #3 there are only 2 cables:
1. is the continuation of cable #3 at Switch #2, this supplies power to Switch #3
2. is outgoing load power and neutral to the light


If you do the runs in conduit you would use individual conductors.

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hagler

So do I just buy individual spools of wire for each gauge & color needed? Then estimate lengths needed to pull through the conduit for each wire/conductor?