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Old 03-06-2013, 03:06 PM   #16
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Take the wires off the switch and wirenut them together then turn breaker back on and see if it comes on. Also with the switch disconnected put your meter in continuity mode, put probes on switch screws, flip switch, if it is good you will have continuity
Which wires specifically would I wirenut together?

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Old 03-06-2013, 03:09 PM   #17
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Which wires specifically would I wirenut together?
The ones that are attatched to the switch. Can you control this light from more than one switch? If not wire nut the two that are on the screws except the ground of course
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:12 PM   #18
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The ones that are attatched to the switch. Can you control this light from more than one switch? If not wire nut the two that are on the screws except the ground of course
Only one switch. So is it possible for the switch to have broke when the circuit arced?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:20 PM   #19
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Is there a dimmer for these lights? If so it is probably fried.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:21 PM   #20
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Is there a dimmer for these lights? If so it is probably fried.
Yes, the switch is a dimmer.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:21 PM   #21
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Only one switch. So is it possible for the switch to have broke when the circuit arced?
Thats what we're gonna find out
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:23 PM   #22
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Yes, the switch is a dimmer.
There ya go.

A small price to pay for your "mistake".
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:24 PM   #23
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There ya go.

A small price to pay for your "mistake".
What makes the dimmer more obvious to fail rather than an ordinary switch?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:25 PM   #24
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What makes the dimmer more obvious to fail rather than an ordinary switch?
The electronics inside have NO tolerance for a dead short going through them.

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