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Old 06-09-2009, 04:37 PM   #16
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The cable should bring in three wires, live-neutral-ground, correct?
Correct.

A circuit is simple. It involves a continuous path from the breaker, thru whatever it powers, then back to the neutral bus.

Think of it this way:

Black wire (hot) brings the power in to the recep/lights and the white wire (neutral) sends it back.

With a light, you have a complete circuit from the breaker, thru the black, thru the filiment of the light bulb and back on the white to the neutral bus in the panel.

With a recep, the circuit is incomplete until you plug something in. Then the power comes out the hot soide, goes thru the drill and back on the neutral.


The ground wires are for personal safety. They are atached to any exposed metal and to the ground pins on receps and tied together at the panel with the neutrals. If a hot wire comes in contact with any grounded metal, the circuit breaker will trip.


****

Make all splices in junction boxes. When working with non metallic cable, I prefer the non conductive feature of plastic boxes.

Cable in and out of recep boxes is simply color to color. Blacks on one side of the recep (brass color), whites to the other (silver color) and bare ground to the ground screw.

Switches will have a cable in and a cable out to the light. The whites tie together and the blacks go to the switch which simply connects/disconnects the circuit.

Code says 18" deep on the buried cable.

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Old 06-09-2009, 04:46 PM   #17
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I have been taged here for 23" for 12-2 uf (direct burial wire)

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Old 06-09-2009, 04:52 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 220/221 View Post

Code says 18" deep on the buried cable.
Table 300.5 column 4
Residential, 120 volt, gfci protected, max 20 amp over current protection, 12 inch burial depth.
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:01 PM   #19
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As long as it is GFCI protected BEFORE it goes into the trench 12" is good
You can't simply have a GFCI outlet at the end of the run
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:43 PM   #20
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Table 300.5 column 4
Residential, 120 volt, gfci protected, max 20 amp over current protection, 12 inch burial depth.
Look at article table 300-50
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:46 PM   #21
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Look at article table 300-50

I looked, your point ?
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:59 PM   #22
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I looked, your point ?
Articale 300 table 300-50 I dont know but have been taged for not being 24" deep
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:03 PM   #23
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Articale 300 table 300-50 I dont know but have been taged for not being 24" deep
Right. But if the UF is on a max 20 A 125 V circuit, and GFCI protected at its source, and in a residential setting, then 12" is all it needs to be. If you get tagged on that, ask the inspector where the local code is amended to forbid it.

Inspectors can't just make up code on the spot, or enforce what they feel like enforcing. If an inspector says something is a no-go, he needs to be able to show where it is written in the law. Believe me, I have pissed a many an inspector off, but passed the inspection.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:04 PM   #24
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Articale 300 table 300-50 I dont know but have been taged for not being 24" deep
And was your run over 600v as stated in table 300.50 ?
Again - WHAT are you refering to in 300.50 ???

My Inspector had to look it up when I qouted the code that allowed me to bury at 12"
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:10 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
And was your run over 600v as stated in table 300.50 ?
Again - WHAT are you refering to in 300.50 ???

My Inspector had to look it up when I qouted the code that allowed me to bury at 12"
Thats great I am tierd of digging 2 feet deep.Going to give it a try
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:18 PM   #26
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I wanted to run (2) circuits
He found I could run 1 circuit in the trench
A 2nd circuit (direct burial) would need to be 12" away

It was easier to just use conduit - 2 runs
But 12" was fine as long as it was GFCI before going in the trench

Did they cite any local code that made the depth stricter?
Was this only your own property?
No public sidewalk or thruway?

Last edited by Scuba_Dave; 06-10-2009 at 07:31 AM. Reason: sp
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:26 PM   #27
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Thank you everybody for the replies so far. Using advice from this thread as well as this site, I've constructed a simpler diagram.

Black = Live/Hot
Blue = Neutral
Green = Ground (Not Shown)
Orange Rectangle = Wire Connector



I'm not sure if this is the correct way to do this, but it's mostly a redraw of the diagram on the site I linked to above. I am curious how much more complexity adding more outlets and/or lights+switches would create.

Last edited by Duff.; 06-09-2009 at 07:34 PM. Reason: Updated diagram...
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:59 PM   #28
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Yes....but you have a blue wire feeding the switch (but it's connected to the proper blacks at the wirenut)

you shoud show a black and blue going into the dimmer box with the blues connected together and the blacks to the dimmer

Last edited by 220/221; 06-09-2009 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:06 PM   #29
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"I intend to keep the extension cord (15amp 12 gauge, female end removed) in place rather than run new wiring as it is more time and cost effective."


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