Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Electrical

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-22-2011, 07:17 AM   #1
I ask the impossible!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 1,069
Rewards Points: 0
Blog Entries: 7
Share |
Default

Service mast questions


Okay, I'm going to be putting up a service mast, new meter, etc on the end of my utility room. It's a brick wall with a aluminum siding gable roof. The gable end sticks out 2" or so from the brick wall, and then at the top the roof doesn't have any overhang, just drip edge hanging over.

So if I anchored the pipe to the wall at the brick with unistrut, does the pipe have to rest against the unistrut or is a gap acceptable?

Would I put the pipe against the aluminum siding and notch the drip edge, or should I have some gap to the siding so it clears the drip edge?

And should I use an offset pipe so the meter can stay flush at the brick wall?

In the picture, the new location for the service entrance is the smaller room at the back of the house.
Attached Thumbnails
Service mast questions-100_2763.jpg  

__________________
Please do NOT consider any "before" picture of my house as any kind of endorsement of any particular construction method. In fact, you should probably assume that if I post a "before" picture, I am posting it because I am soliciting advice on a proper replacement for one of MANY things done wrong by a previous owner.
WillK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2011, 10:50 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,506
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Service mast questions


Why not use 2" Unistrut behind the meter can and the service mast? Everything nice and tight and looks good to. You can build up Unistrut. Like take two pieces and stack them. They make special nuts (spring nuts) to connect the unistrut together. Use the spring nuts for the meter can and stacking the channel. Then use Unistrut clamps for the riser.

Use Tapcons (blue concrete) screws to attach to the brick.

J. V. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2011, 11:22 AM   #3
nap
You talking to me?
 
nap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: sw mi
Posts: 5,407
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Service mast questions


Quote:
So if I anchored the pipe to the wall at the brick with unistrut, does the pipe have to rest against the unistrut or is a gap acceptable?
Ok, I have already changed my design 3 times. I'm going to actually post this one.

Use unistrut (made in 13/16" (usually called 7/8 or shallow in my area), 1 5/8" (deep) and 3 1/4" (double)) deep enough to allow the pipe to go past the drip edge when installing a piece of strut on the gable end. If you have access to a bender, I would toss an offset below the gable end so you can use shallow strut for the conduit on the brick and no strut for the meter base.

If you don't have a bender available; use strut as needed to outset the meter base so it mounts as suggested above as if passes over the gable end and beyond.

Are you moving your service disconnect/panel as well? You must have a disconnect as close as practicable where the power enters the building.
nap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2011, 08:44 PM   #4
I ask the impossible!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 1,069
Rewards Points: 0
Blog Entries: 7
Default

Service mast questions


Thanks, just the kind of suggestions I need.

From the meter, I'll be going straight through the wall to my new 200A panel which I am currently using as a sub-panel off the current 100A main.

I was thinking of using this offset riser that is available at Home Depot, it's a 2" pipe with 2 bends in it to make an offset. It costs $79. If I can avoid the offset, then rigid metal conduit is $54 or so, so saves a good chunk. Enough to pay for the unistrut, but I'd need that anyway.
__________________
Please do NOT consider any "before" picture of my house as any kind of endorsement of any particular construction method. In fact, you should probably assume that if I post a "before" picture, I am posting it because I am soliciting advice on a proper replacement for one of MANY things done wrong by a previous owner.
WillK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2011, 01:24 AM   #5
" Euro " electrician
 
frenchelectrican's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WI & France { in France for now }
Posts: 5,369
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Service mast questions


If you going to move the service riser to diffrent location the best answer is check with the POCO due there are few regulations you have to follow the POCO's regulations for service drop attachement for overhead runs and clearance issue as well.

One way you can do is make a telescope to raise the height of attachement point by using the rigde conduct { thick wall steel pipe } and strut channel and also backguy wire it.

Before you do anything make sure you get proper permits for this set up.

Merci,
Marc
__________________
The answer will be based on NEC ( National Electrical code ) or CEC ( Cananda Electrical code ) or ECF ( Electrique Code France )
frenchelectrican is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Service Disconnect Wiring stlcardinalsguy Electrical 11 02-27-2011 10:42 PM
Service entrance for farm house. jptkaczyk Electrical 14 02-12-2011 05:24 PM
Installing New Service Mast and Meter Base markmanning Electrical 3 10-14-2010 08:07 PM
200 amp panel with a 100 amp service? alexz Electrical 10 07-29-2007 10:00 PM
Suspected open/loose service neutral mrtomwj Electrical 5 09-28-2006 08:46 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.