Service Cable from Meter to Load Center

monkeystomach

Hi Guys,
I need some electrical help. Below there is a rough, not-to-scale drawing of the meter and load center/main breaker that feed my house.

I need to replace my load center and by doing that, I will also need to replace the service wire that runs from my meter to the panel, because the current wires will be too short for the new panel.

Since I am going to be switching the service wires I would like to switch from AL to CU. My problem is that I cannot find a local vendor that has 2/0 copper SEU or SER available.

I know I can run 2/0 copper THHN from the meter to the panel but it is my understanding that it need to be in PVC.

My problem is that the meter and the panel are lined up back to back with each other; however, the meter is lower than the panel. The panel is flush mounted in the 2” x 4” exterior wall and I cannot figure out how I could possibly make that bend with PVC.

All suggestions are welcomed…

Thanks!
Ed

itsnotrequired

lb fitting?

joecaption

http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...mb=cpCLpHoH11V

monkeystomach

@itsnotrequired - I do not think that code will allow me to conceal a LB in the wall.

monkeystomach

@joecaption - Does code permit the use of NM liquid tight in walls?

itsnotrequired

it won't. leave it exposed or make an access panel.

itsnotrequired

also, keep in mind the bending radius of LFNC. i assume this is a 6" wall? you're probably looking at 2" LFNC which has a bending radius of almost a foot. note that it is only available up to 2" diameter.

Glennsparky

Are you pulling a permit? Your jurisdiction may require an outside disconnect. Mount the disconnect back to back with the inside panel so that the knockouts in the rear of each enclosure line up. Then use a nipple between them. If no disconnect is necessary, you can still go out the back of the inside panel into an LB. Then run pvc pipe from the LB to the meter on the outside wall.

J. V.

This the correct way to do this. Meter and panel, back to back. You can use a PVC nipple or a metal nipple between the meter and the panel. You can also use SE cable. With SE you need no conduit. (or you can sleeve it with conduit if you like) SE cable must not be "subject to physical damage".
Check on the requirement for a disconnect as mentioned above.
I personally would use a meter main regardless if the disconnect is required or not. This allows for circuits outside and allows the use of a main lug panel inside instead of a main breaker panel. They are more flexible that the standard meter and service panel setup.
Here is a picture of a meter main service panel.

Attached Images

  

monkeystomach

Thanks for the help everyone. My locality does not require a disconnect outside. The studs on this exterior wall are only 4", so even if I use 2/0 SEU cable in the wall, I think I will still be breaking the NEC code about bend radius (though i am not 100% sure).

I think I will have to do this...
Exit the side of the meter with a 2" PVC elbow pointed upwards
Exit the backside of the panel with a 2" LB pointed downwards
Connect the LB and 90
Run 2/0 THHN for my service

Since the walls are only 4" deep and my panel is flush-mounted that means that the back of my panel is basically touching the siding.
Can I connect the LB directly to the panel or do I need a nipple then a panel adapter?


Thanks,

Ed

rrolleston

I would either use an LB or SE cable.

__________________
Please ask me about my special discount for people that shut up and stay out of my way! With Electricity there is the right way to do it and the dead way. Just because it works does not make it safe.

monkeystomach

Instead of a 2" LB, can I use a 2" pull elbow?

frenchelectrican

I did notice that you mention 200 amp service however is the new box you are replaceing is larger than old one if so keep the top at the same level as old one is then the bottom of new one is longer than old one if so you can actually meet meter socket back to back with staight shot there.

I have done this from time to time and new 200 amp panel genrally are longer than old school panels are.

Can ya post the model number and I can able figure it out one way or other.

Merci,
Marc

__________________
The answer will be based on NEC ( National Electrical code ) or CEC ( Cananda Electrical code ) or ECF ( Electrique Code France )

monkeystomach

The new load center is larger, but the bus is actually smaller because the new breakers are 3/4" instead of 1"". I had to move the panel up to make sure that all of my circuits could properly be connected to the bus. Therefore my current service cable is too short and I need to run a new one. The old one was also installed before the radius bend codes and now would not pass inspection.