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Old 10-30-2011, 08:05 AM   #46
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Saw struggles, dies


Is that length of wood on the other side of the fence an example of what you are ripping?

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Old 11-04-2011, 06:52 PM   #47
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Saw struggles, dies


It's been a busy week, but I finally got a chance to play around with my saw some more.

I tried a couple old (still sharp, straight) blades that had previously been used on my miter saw. The 24-tooth Dewalt was the only blade to complete a rip, but I still had to feed my board at a very slow rate. Maybe one inch every four seconds for this 3x4 (dry) stick of hickory I've been playing with. The motor would groan like a walrus when feeding any faster than this.

ddawg16, can you give more details on measuring the voltage at the saw? Do you mean where the power cord comes in, or somewhere deeper, like actually inside the motor?

I talked to some other guys (in real life) with the same model table saw, and they both said that their saws performed much better at 240V, so I'm thinking I'll probably just hook up a temporary 240V supply and see what happens.
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Old 11-04-2011, 06:54 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by a7ecorsair View Post
Is that length of wood on the other side of the fence an example of what you are ripping?
Yes. I did some work at a local pallet shop, and they had a pile of this decent-looking hardwood that they couldn't use, so I hauled it home with me. Most of it is around 40 inches long.
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:50 PM   #49
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Saw struggles, dies


Are you trying to make a full depth cut? You should only set the blade to cut about 1" deep, then raise blade an make another pass.
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:19 PM   #50
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Saw struggles, dies


I rewired the table saw for 240V a few days ago. Would have updated you guys sooner, but I had to rush out of town for a paying job.



I pulled some 12-2 BX I had lying around and changed the receptacle and cord cap to NEMA 6-20. This is fed from a 20A double-pole breaker; Big Orange only had 15A single-poles and couldn't even sell me a tie bar.

This saw runs like a champ now! I put several hardwood samples and some pressure-treated yellow pine through there so far. The saw hasn't choked or bogged down even once.
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:26 AM   #51
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Exactly what I had figured.

Now, all you nay-sayers that said this would not do any good --- what have you got to say for yourselves now???

Congrats on getting it working right.
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:58 AM   #52
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That will not change anything.

Make sure the blade is sharp and square, and cut slower.

My saw has trouble with oak also.
I stand corrected!!!!
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:08 PM   #53
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A 1½ H.P. motor is 1½ H.P. with 120 volts or with 240 volts
OK, I can understand that the inline breaker doesn't trip because you are using half the amperage, but how dose it make the saw work harder?
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:42 PM   #54
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THE reason why such motors work so much better at 240 Volts is there is much more "wiggle room" available when the motor starts to get bogged down.

When configured for 120 Volts, you are literally maxed out before you even start cutting any wood.

On a 240 Volt supply, you have lots of extra available amps to get thru the hard parts, without missing a beat.

You may notice that the saw gets up to speed much quicker as well when supplied with 240 Volts.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:40 PM   #55
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Lets look at the real reason why it now works with 240 vs 120 before....

Motor name plate says 13A @ 120, 6.5A @ 240Vac.

Originally, the saw was hooked up to a 14/2 120Vac line....

As we all know, a 13A load on a 14 AWG feed is borderline....the 14/2 is rated at 15A.

Now, the OP changed the wireing to 12/2 @ 240Vac....

The amps to the motor at that voltage now drop down to 6.5A.

12 Awg wire has almost half the resistance of 14 Awg (1.5 vs 2.5 ohms per 1000').

The only difference in the motor when wired 240 vs 120 is that the poles are wired in series vs parallel.

I would be willing to bet that if the OP had changed the 120Vac wiring to the saw to 12/2 @ 120Vac, that he would have had about the same results.

With all that said.....nothing wrong with running it off 240Vac. The voltage drop is even less so the margin of error is smaller.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:57 PM   #56
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You may notice that the saw gets up to speed much quicker as well when supplied with 240 Volts.
I did notice. The electric brake also seems to kick in sooner than before and decelerates the blade more rapidly.

Earlier today, I was ripping those hickory 4x4s down to 2x3s for some shelving cleats. Man...I can't even describe how awesome it was to be able to do that without fighting it.

Thanks, everybody...I couldn't be more pleased with the new setup.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:33 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
...I would be willing to bet that if the OP had changed the 120Vac wiring to the saw to 12/2 @ 120Vac, that he would have had about the same results....
That has not been my experience in real life situations. While using a 12 gauge line at 120 Volts would improve things a bit, its been my experience that changing to the higher voltage improves performance much more so.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:59 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
That has not been my experience in real life situations. While using a 12 gauge line at 120 Volts would improve things a bit, its been my experience that changing to the higher voltage improves performance much more so.
Same here; this is one of those things where theory and reality are not the same.

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