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Old 10-29-2011, 01:17 PM   #31
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Saw struggles, dies


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jumping to 240 volts will halve the current draw and should work with your puny wires much better. The only downside I see is you might have a hard time getting a 15 amp double pole breaker.
Code-wise, a 1-1/2HP single phase motor operated at 240 volts needs a #14 minimum wire size. The maximum breaker size is 30 amps. But it cannot have a cord and plug rated less than the breaker.

If it were me, I'd use a 15 amp breaker with #14 wire though. It's way too easy to add more stuff and eventually overload the wire.

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Old 10-29-2011, 01:34 PM   #32
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The neutral is a grounded conductor.
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Correct, my point was that it was a grounded conductor not just a conductor
But you initially said "Ground". The ground is that green wire. Yes, the neutral is tied to ground in the load center...but for the purpose of describing an electrical system, Neutral is the return path for 120Vac....not Ground....even though the neutral is grounded.

If you look at the electrical flow in a house....the only flow to earth ground should be where the earth ground is connected to the neutral at the load center. And that current flow should be small with the purpose of setting the reference for the neutral at ground level. For the rest of the circuits, there should be no current flow in the ground conductor unless there is a problem. All of the current should be in the neutral.

So....when someone says ground and we are talking AC....ground is earth ground....the Green or bare copper wire. Neutral is the white wire.

If your talking DC....then ground is the 0 Vdc reference.....or some refer to it as "Common".
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:07 PM   #33
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ddawg16
You have to be careful when coping and pasting from old posting. What appears to be my comments are not my comments.
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:48 PM   #34
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ddawg16
You have to be careful when coping and pasting from old posting. What appears to be my comments are not my comments.
Ooopppsss....sorry about that....I was using the multiquote feature.....guess it has some bugs.....anyway...fixed it
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:44 PM   #35
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I would be willing to bet that if you measured the voltage at the motor under load.....your voltage would be dropping below 100Vac.

A 14-2/15A ckt...even if dedicated, is a borderline supply for that saw.....just like the 1.5 HP rating. About the only advantage to going to 240Vac is that your exiting wiring would have less voltage drop.

I would also not be surprised if that wall recpt that your saw is plugged into is using the back stab connections instead of the side screws.
I'm reading 124V, maybe 125V (analog meter) on the receptacle with no load. Voltage dropped to about 120V with the motor turning, and dropped again to around 115V while feeding a chunk of old hickory. The saw didn't cut out completely this time. Maybe because of moving the back-stabbed wires to the screw terminals? The motor was still struggling pretty hard with the hickory, though, while being fed at a very leisurely pace.

I've rechecked my saw setup, and everything is square and well-lubed.
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:59 PM   #36
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Do you have room for a two pole breaker? If so, leave the wire in place and change the breaker and convert the motor to 240. Install a 240 15a receptacle.
Plenty of room in the panel, but are 15A double-poles commonly available? Also, would it be legal to use a 120V receptacle so I wouldn't have to buy a new cord for the saw? Probably not, I guess. Unless it was marked as 240V maybe?
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:15 PM   #37
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Plenty of room in the panel, but are 15A double-poles commonly available? Also, would it be legal to use a 120V receptacle so I wouldn't have to buy a new cord for the saw? Probably not, I guess. Unless it was marked as 240V maybe?
Two pole 15a breakers are available. What brand is your panel?
You would need to use a 15 amp 240 volt receptacle and change the plug on the saw to the same.
Do not jury rig a standard 120 volt receptacle because it would be possible to plug in a 120 appliance.
You could redo everything to 20 amp 240 volts.
What about blade speed? I think 3000 RPMs is low. Is the saw and motor a factory setup?
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:23 PM   #38
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It's a GE panel (from the orange store).

I definitely want to keep everything legal; we want to sell this place. Thanks.

I'd love to see this blade turning faster. 3K RPM seems too slow to me, too. My blades are all rated for 7K RPM.

The motor's wiring hasn't been touched since it left the factory. There's a sticker on the cord's junction box that reads "120V."
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:12 PM   #39
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Is the saw a complete factory built unit meaning the table, the frame, the pulleys, and motor were all part of the saw when it was new?
Any chance you could post a picture of the saw?
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:33 PM   #40
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Yes, the saw was still in the original, unopened box when I brought it home.

Ridgid, model TS 3660. From Big Orange :/





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Old 10-29-2011, 09:35 PM   #41
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Your picture looks like it might be a Ridgid contractor's saw. If so, I think you may just be at your saw's limit and need to adapt to what you have. What kind of blade are you using and with how many teeth? 3450 RPM is a pretty standard rating for table saws. My vintage Unisaw turns at that speed as well and I have no issues. I had no issues with the old 1750 RPM pulley setup either. Its more about the motor torque than speed the blade turns.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:38 PM   #42
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Ha. Posted right after you. I think I see your problem. Are you mainly ripping wood down with this saw? Your blade, while good has too many teeth for ripping at a more than leisurely pace, especially with hardwoods.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:51 PM   #43
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Ha. Posted right after you. I think I see your problem. Are you mainly ripping wood down with this saw? Your blade, while good has too many teeth for ripping at a more than leisurely pace, especially with hardwoods.

I agee, you have a cross cut blade, you need to switch to a ripping or combination blade.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:55 PM   #44
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The blade on there is a 60-tooth Freud. Barely used. I have several 40- and 24-tooth blades, too, though. I'll try making my rips with some of those tomorrow after work. (had too many beer already tonight to touch a power tool) I'm just starting to get into building cabinets and furniture, so yeah, not much experience with hardwoods so far.

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Old 10-30-2011, 02:58 AM   #45
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Ah....yes....blades.....

Spending $50 or more a good blade does not bother me......

With that said....the blade you have is for fine cuts....you have to go slow.....but not real slow......

I see some difference between a rip blade vs finish blade...but not much....so I'm inclined to think you still have a supply problem.

Your going to have to measure the voltage at the saw to know for sure....until then, anthing else we tell you is worthless.

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