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Old 10-28-2011, 07:39 PM   #1
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Saw struggles, dies


If I rewire this table saw motor to operate on 240V instead of 120V as it is currently, would it help with the problems I'm having keeping the saw running while cutting denser materials?



This is plugged into a 15A dedicated circuit fed with 14-2 romex. Almost every time I try to rip a nice chunk of hickory or red oak or even yellow pine, the saw shuts down after getting a couple feet into it. I have to smack the main switch off, usually wait several seconds, hit the reset switch on the motor, and pull the power back up before the blade will turn again. By this time, my cut is almost certainly mutilated to a fare-thee-well.

Anyway, I figure if I rewire the motor for 240V and install a double-pole breaker in the panel, I can use the same 14-2 that's already there. I'm a carpenter, though, not an electrician, so I just wanted to ask if this will work without killing me, burning down the house, or whatever else.

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Old 10-28-2011, 07:47 PM   #2
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Saw struggles, dies


That will not change anything.

Make sure the blade is sharp and square, and cut slower.

My saw has trouble with oak also.

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Old 10-28-2011, 07:57 PM   #3
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Saw struggles, dies


What is the pulley ratio between the arbor and motor shaft?
What diameter blade are you running?
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:58 PM   #4
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Saw struggles, dies


spray some WD-40 on both sides of the blade and loosen up on the belt a bit if you have one forget changing the electric..might be sap or gunk on it thats locking it up on the cut don't push the wood to hard into the blade and try tilting it up a bit....
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:21 PM   #5
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Saw struggles, dies


Aw, dang. This guy I used to work with always claimed they'd run better at 240V. Oh well; glad I asked first, anyway.

The blade is practically new. Thin-kerf. Ten-inch. The belt is tensioned by the weight of the motor itself, and the pulley ratio is 1:1.

Maybe the fence has gotten out of square. I'll keep investigating. Thanks, y'all.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:46 PM   #6
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Saw struggles, dies


Don't listen to the nay-sayers.

Yes, the saw will perform MUCH better wired for 240 Volts.

Try it, and see!

Then come back here and let us know your results.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:49 PM   #7
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Saw struggles, dies


A 1½ H.P. motor is 1½ H.P. with 120 volts or with 240 volts
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:02 PM   #8
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Saw struggles, dies


That's a fairly anemic motor and as stated will not run any better at 240 or 120. At 240v it will draw less amperage but not run any different. Try cleaning any pitch off the blade by soaking in some degreaser, maybe try a lower tooth count if you can, and adjust your fence.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
Don't listen to the nay-sayers.

Yes, the saw will perform MUCH better wired for 240 Volts.

Try it, and see!

Then come back here and let us know your results.
Agree.

In theory, it will operate the same on either voltage, but in real life, it'll have more power if operated at 240.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:55 PM   #10
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Saw struggles, dies


Square fence, clean blade (can use oven cleaner-works great), silicone spray on blade, fence, and table (slippery stuff so be careful where you spray it), and you could try an 8" or smaller blade for more power. If you're plugged into an extension cord you could try a heavier cord or directly into outlet.

So annoying though when the saw bogs down, and worse, pops breakers! Especially when the breakers are forever away... Good luck!,
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:12 PM   #11
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Saw struggles, dies


I would be willing to bet that if you measured the voltage at the motor under load.....your voltage would be dropping below 100Vac.

A 14-2/15A ckt...even if dedicated, is a borderline supply for that saw.....just like the 1.5 HP rating. About the only advantage to going to 240Vac is that your exiting wiring would have less voltage drop.

I would also not be surprised if that wall recpt that your saw is plugged into is using the back stab connections instead of the side screws.

Before you do anything modifications...use a voltmeter and measure the voltage at your saw when your using it. I would measure at the wall plug and at the motor. You never know, you might have a wiring issue in the saw.

FYI....you can stick the voltmeter leads into the unused outlet on the recept to measure the voltage at the wall. If that voltage is good...then you need to open things up to measure at the motor.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16
I would be willing to bet that if you measured the voltage at the motor under load.....your voltage would be dropping below 100Vac.

A 14-2/15A ckt...even if dedicated, is a borderline supply for that saw.....just like the 1.5 HP rating. About the only advantage to going to 240Vac is that your exiting wiring would have less voltage drop.

I would also not be surprised if that wall recpt that your saw is plugged into is using the back stab connections instead of the side screws.

Before you do anything modifications...use a voltmeter and measure the voltage at your saw when your using it. I would measure at the wall plug and at the motor. You never know, you might have a wiring issue in the saw.

FYI....you can stick the voltmeter leads into the unused outlet on the recept to measure the voltage at the wall. If that voltage is good...then you need to open things up to measure at the motor.
What's the difference between the back stab and side screws? Just curious...
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:31 PM   #13
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Saw struggles, dies


Okay...the motor is what it is and will never be anything else; I get that. But what's the deal with this "thermal protection?" I keep thinking less amperage generates less heat and won't blow the little red button off as soon...or am I heading toward fantasy land again?

I obviously need to read up some more about motors.
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:01 AM   #14
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Saw struggles, dies


Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
I would be willing to bet that if you measured the voltage at the motor under load.....your voltage would be dropping below 100Vac.

A 14-2/15A ckt...even if dedicated, is a borderline supply for that saw.....just like the 1.5 HP rating. About the only advantage to going to 240Vac is that your exiting wiring would have less voltage drop.

I would also not be surprised if that wall recpt that your saw is plugged into is using the back stab connections instead of the side screws.

Before you do anything modifications...use a voltmeter and measure the voltage at your saw when your using it. I would measure at the wall plug and at the motor. You never know, you might have a wiring issue in the saw.

FYI....you can stick the voltmeter leads into the unused outlet on the recept to measure the voltage at the wall. If that voltage is good...then you need to open things up to measure at the motor.
It wouldn't be a big deal to pull some #12 if it'll help. The saw sits about eight feet from the panel, but like you say, I'll probe everything with the voltmeter first.

(And right on...that receptacle was indeed back-stabbed)
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justgaff View Post
What's the difference between the back stab and side screws? Just curious...
Back stab, you are dependent on a weak spring like contact that allows the wire to comes loose over time. When used properly the side screws provide a much better connection.

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