DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Electrical (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/)
-   -   Running wires for NEW outlets In Plaster and Lathe (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/running-wires-new-outlets-plaster-lathe-59376/)

Scotsman 12-16-2009 09:06 AM

Running wires for NEW outlets In Plaster and Lathe
 
Good Morning,

I would like to add some new outlets to my second floor. I only have ONE in MY bedroom, think there is two in the middle bedroom, NONE in the bathroom, and 2 or 3 in back bedroom. At the current I am not able to rip out the walls and sheetrock. So I will have to "fish" the wires. NO CLUE how to do this! (in plaster and lathe) I know the concept of fishing just not in P&L. How difficult would this be? What could I possibly run into? If I pull the wires and hook them up to the outlet, would it be expensive to have an electriction hook them all to the circuit breaker box? ( I do NOT touch the CB panel, except to throw a tripped breaker) haha Call me chicken, but at least I won't be a fried chicken! :laughing:

Thank You

Scuba_Dave 12-16-2009 09:11 AM

The only problem I have seen with lathe is cutting it
Using a sawzall it can vibrate the lathe loose from the wall

Dedicated 20a run to the bathroom required by code
Bedrooms need to be afci

Figure out where the studs are
You don't want to be too close to a stud or an old work box the catches won't turn & hold the box in place
Drill a hole to start & verify location
Small hole saw to cut out the hole...or sabre saw ?
I haven't done any P&L in a while

secutanudu 12-16-2009 10:12 AM

This link might help you get the boxes installed in your P&L wall.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/e...thick_wall.htm

RST 12-16-2009 10:40 AM

Great link! Thanks.

Scotsman 12-17-2009 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by secutanudu (Post 367620)
This link might help you get the boxes installed in your P&L wall.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/e...thick_wall.htm


YES it should be VERY VERY Helpful!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thank You for the link!

secutanudu 12-17-2009 07:42 AM

I am glad you will find it useful. I just put a new switchbox in my P&L wall, and I did have to back out the screw a little like it was described in that article. Just give the tabe a light tug before you put it in to make sure it won't fall into the wall. I have "drywall" type lathe, which I think is thicker than wood lathe, and standard old work boxes went fine, and my walls are over an inch thick.

Scotsman 12-17-2009 07:47 AM

Not even sure how think mine are, NOT READY to go there just yet! LOL With Christmas coming and we are going on a cruise in March to Hawaii, DON'T want to get started just yet! LOL Thanks though, I added it to my favorites so I can find it WHEN I am ready!:thumbup:

AllanJ 12-17-2009 07:50 AM

Even if you are careful you may end up with an occasional piece of lath separating from the plaster in back. If the plaster should crack some time later, just patching it will probably hold it in place.

Almost always, at least one piece of lath gets cut completely. The ends loose at the box hole are very apt to push back away from the plaster.

Sometimes plaster has embedded fibers or hair which makes it less likely to crumble.

secutanudu 12-17-2009 07:52 AM

One other thing to consider when working with old walls is getting an asbestos test.

Thurman 12-17-2009 03:11 PM

First: "secutanudu", That's very close to how I have handled this problem working on older homes in my area, including a 1921 home my son owned for a few years. I have had to change out the screws which come with an old work box for a slightly longer screw to get the "latching tab" to actually latch on the back of the wall. Getting this latching tab to secure to the back of the wall in an upright position can be tricky with longer screws. So, I have used a piece of clothes hanger wire to push between the plaster and old work box to hold the latching tab in it's proper place for tightening. Everyone has some type of trick they use I'm sure, David

secutanudu 12-17-2009 03:25 PM

That's funny, I was wondering how I might make it work if I had to get longer screws. I guess the coat hanger would work!

I noticed you're from the "other" Albany :) I live in the one in NY State.

pyper 12-17-2009 03:45 PM

You might want to have an electrician install a new outlet on a new circuit near the breaker box. This shouldn't be too expensive. Then connect your wires to that outlet. He might not be too keen on the idea of connecting your work for you, since he would potentially have liability. But you could always ask.

philS 01-04-2011 10:20 PM

Scuba , OP, others - Don;t forget about our old friend the the angle grider with a metal blade. The high speed and circular motion (not reciprocating) cuts way down on the vibration, and tends not to bring the whole wall down on top of you. And the discs are cheap. Just keep some water handy and make sure you're nowhere near your smokie - ie you WILL see smoke. Good luck.

I hate lathe and plaster! Doesn't take much of an excuse before I hire HS and college kids to rip it out completely (they love to get dirty). Then I do what needs to be done, then rock it.

And yes, my Fein tool gets used almost every day! -- Phil

RST 01-05-2011 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philS (Post 563039)
Scuba , OP, others - Don;t forget about our old friend the the angle grider with a metal blade. The high speed and circular motion (not reciprocating) cuts way down on the vibration, and tends not to bring the whole wall down on top of you. And the discs are cheap. Just keep some water handy and make sure you're nowhere near your smokie - ie you WILL see smoke. Good luck.

I hate lathe and plaster! Doesn't take much of an excuse before I hire HS and college kids to rip it out completely (they love to get dirty). Then I do what needs to be done, then rock it.

And yes, my Fein tool gets used almost every day! -- Phil

Great idea! I need to cut out a box. I think I may try the grinder or an oscillating tool - there may be some other wires in the wall cavity, should be safer than a 4" saw blade.

Jim Port 01-05-2011 08:22 AM

You may want to check out the new SmartBox style old work box that screws into the side of the stud and provides a much stronger mounting and does not flex the plaster when using the receptacle.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:52 PM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved