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Old 03-22-2011, 03:25 PM   #1
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Rough Plan Design


Looking for some advice on this plan - Laundry/Utility Room I'm still working on lighting in there, but otherwise, feedback?

I don't have lighting zones marked, but the basic idea is:

Zone 1 - stairs (3 way switch)
Zone 2 - Bar Lights(3 way switch)
Zone 3 - Living Room (3 way switch)
Zone 4 - Play Area (4 way switch)

Then each room would have it's own switch of course to control recessed lighting, as well as a switch to control accent/speciality lighting in bar area.

Also, open to advice on how to split up the circuits back to the panel - I'll be having a pro do the work, but I'm trying to go the clean easy route and hand him the plans and let him do his thing.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:49 PM   #2
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don't know how large the unfinished storage room is but you might consider putting the switch out side of the room if it is very small.

Maybe consider dimmable lighting in the bar and living room areas.

don't forget power and interconnection for smoke alarms.

what wattage are you considering with the can lights?

what is the ceiling; lay in or hard?

I would consider switches for all areas to be placed on the wall near the entrance to the bedroom. That way, when whomever goes to bed, they can turn off all the lights in the basement and when rising, lighting all the way out of the basement is easily controlled.

where you intend on placing the TV, I would use double duplexes or double the duplex count. Due to the use of wallwart transforners, sometimes 4 duplexes is beneficial over 2 quads but basically 8 v. 4 receps can be handy given the amount of electronics in use today.

computer area, probably similar. As I sit at my computer I look over at what I have plugged in; 5 devices and at least one or two not plugged in at the moment.

what about data/ tv/ phone? speaker system?

I think the light switch for the play area on the outside wall is misplaced. I would probably put that switch and the switch for the TV area (that is on the south wall) right near the corner right where the wall bumps out for the play area. (same wall as the TV area switch but moved down nearly to the bump out)


that is a quick review. Maybe it will give you some things to think about.

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Old 03-22-2011, 04:03 PM   #3
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First - awesome and thanks for the time! Some reponses below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
don't know how large the unfinished storage room is but you might consider putting the switch out side of the room if it is very small.
Good point - it's about 4x7, so I could see either way there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
Maybe consider dimmable lighting in the bar and living room areas.
Didn't know how to show that on there, but those three ways will be dimmable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
don't forget power and interconnection for smoke alarms.
Who needs smoke alarms? Just kidding, but actually, completely forgot about those. However, upstairs is all battery powered . . . never even thought or knew about hard-wiring them. Any recommendations?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
what wattage are you considering with the can lights?
Still looking - the cans I saw at Lowes were 75 watt PAR38 I believe. I'm worried about that amount of load though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
what is the ceiling; lay in or hard?
Will be drywall when finished (currently open joists)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
I would consider switches for all areas to be placed on the wall near the entrance to the bedroom. That way, when whomever goes to bed, they can turn off all the lights in the basement and when rising, lighting all the way out of the basement is easily controlled.

where you intend on placing the TV, I would use double duplexes or double the duplex count. Due to the use of wallwart transforners, sometimes 4 duplexes is beneficial over 2 quads but basically 8 v. 4 receps can be handy given the amount of electronics in use today.

computer area, probably similar. As I sit at my computer I look over at what I have plugged in; 5 devices and at least one or two not plugged in at the moment

what about data/ tv/ phone? speaker system?

I think the light switch for the play area on the outside wall is misplaced. I would probably put that switch and the switch for the TV area (that is on the south wall) right near the corner right where the wall bumps out for the play area. (same wall as the TV area switch but moved down nearly to the bump out)


that is a quick review. Maybe it will give you some things to think about.
Great points . . . and yeah, play area switch I didn't like, so that might make more sense.

As for data, cable and phone, those are next to figure out, but since I work for the cable company, I've got a pretty good handle on those items!

Thanks again for taking the time!
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:19 PM   #4
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Lutron Grafik Eye.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:22 PM   #5
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Wow! That is a lot of lighting for the living room play area and bar.

I would consider nixing a couple pairs of lights and spreading the rest a bit further from each other.

Unless of course you are going to put cubicles, chairs, desks and a phone bank in for a telemarketing sweat shop.

Use at least two separate switches for the cans and alternate the lights on the switches.

If you are in California you need to put those switches for the rooms on dimmers or all the lighting be of high efficacy type.

Also I would put that switch for the storage on the closet side.

Andy.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Didn't know how to show that on there, but those three ways will be dimmable.
in the "real" world, we generally us a subscript D by each switch that is a dimmer. Hard to do on internet stuff though.



Quote:
Who needs smoke alarms? Just kidding, but actually, completely forgot about those. However, upstairs is all battery powered . . . never even thought or knew about hard-wiring them. Any recommendations?
no real recommendations. I do commercial so I deal with companies such as Notifier, Pyrotronics, and a few others and have no real control over vendor.


Quote:
Still looking - the cans I saw at Lowes were 75 watt PAR38 I believe. I'm worried about that amount of load though.
load it why I was looking for your design intentions. We can get enough power to run just about anything you want. Just need to know how much power you need (and as a result, how many circuits) you need there.



Quote:
Will be drywall when finished (currently open joists)
two words: access hatches

they can be salvation with a hard ceiling.





Quote:
As for data, cable and phone, those are next to figure out, but since I work for the cable company, I've got a pretty good handle on those items!
If you say Comcast, you just lost anymore help from me!!!!


just kidding. Comcast, overall, has been ok. They have some decent techs in my area, some not so much so. They are what they are; a big company which typically makes them difficult to deal with.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
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...
just kidding. Comcast, overall, has been ok. They have some decent techs in my area, some not so much so. They are what they are; a big company which typically makes them difficult to deal with.
LOL - no, not Comcast! I've dealt with them in the past though! They aren't bad by any means, just HUGE!!! Therefore, it's a quantity vs. quality issue
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyGump
Wow! That is a lot of lighting for the living room play area and bar.

I would consider nixing a couple pairs of lights and spreading the rest a bit further from each other.

Unless of course you are going to put cubicles, chairs, desks and a phone bank in for a telemarketing sweat shop.

Use at least two separate switches for the cans and alternate the lights on the switches.

If you are in California you need to put those switches for the rooms on dimmers or all the lighting be of high efficacy type.

Also I would put that switch for the storage on the closet side.

Andy.
Andy,

Thanks and was going to go for the sweat shop.... But now that you called me out on it I think I'll just go for a living room.

I took a 6' spread but was just working on what I had heard there. Planning on 6" cans and ceiling height is just under 6'8. Should I go more with 8' spreads or more? No worries eliminating lights - I just don't want to be adding them after the fact!! Open to advice on that one.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:46 PM   #9
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I don't know building codes well enough to say but:

that 6'8" sounds like it might be a problem. As far as I know there is a minimum ceiling height to be able to use the basement as living space. 6'8" sounds kind of short.

Hopefully one of the builders can comment on that.

along with that, I know there is a headroom requirement for the stairway as well. Maybe the same guy can toss out the minimum allowances there as well.
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:03 PM   #10
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6' 8" on the stairwell is good, not too sure about for the 'habitable' room height though.

I will have to look that up, I think it is a min. of 84" to be legal in that department.

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Old 03-23-2011, 12:13 PM   #11
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6'8" is my low point so that's what I'm working with as a general assumption - most of it is 6'11 or so. As for legal, code variance isn't hard to get with the building already established and one reason I have to do drywall ceilings.

So, as for lighting coverage, would an 8' spread be better to plan on? 10'? Like I said, right now, I'm looking at 6" PAR38 light cans (75 watt I believe) - and they say they are good on a 1:1 height:illumination spread. I'm ok dropping lights off the plan as I'm not a fan of pushing 2250 watts just for lights, I just want to make sure I'm not regretting a dark basement ...
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:54 PM   #12
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Update - met with the inspector today and they are pretty easy to work with!!

Ceiling height problems aren't a problem at all - the inspector here said they will clear a 6'8" basement without issue if the construction was done to maximize headroom (i.e., drywall the ceiling vs. dropping it 6", etc.). There main concerns are electrical and egress and new construction meeting as much of code as possible. The remainder is "best effort" and reasonable costs.

Also - just attached updated plans with revised lighting and switches.
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:02 PM   #13
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Good on ya Shaotzu.

Andy.
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:34 PM   #14
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i like about 1 can light per 75 sq ft (so a 300 sq ft room has 4 for instance)

I think you have WAY too many lights for this space, just my opinion.

you may want to consider zoning them like this if you go with so many

1-2-1-2-1-2
1-2-1-2-1-2

so that way you have in that example 6 lights on each zone (12 total), and you have even coverage, but can turn half of them off....i dunno...

I think you need to set some lights up in that room and see if you really need that many.
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Old 03-31-2011, 04:10 PM   #15
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Thanks for the advice - and I'm still debating. Problem is I want to use recessed can lights and would hate to run some, try them out, rerun, etc. The good news is that I'm planning on all the main lights being on dimmers, so I'm a little less concerned with over-lighting (definitely don't want to underlight!)!. I was thinking about killing one set in the upper right room (bedroom/workout room in there) so that would give me 4 lights in a room of 250 sq ft. room (closer to your 75' idea). My question is where did you get that number? Based on the manufacturer suggestion, they are going with 40 sq ft. coverage, not 75 - and not that I doubt a suggestion, I've just cut out a good amount of lights from the original recommendation, and now wondering if I should cut out more.

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