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fdmillion 01-18-2013 12:57 AM

Rough in inspection time -- a couple questions
Ok, so I'm just about ready for my rough-in inspection.

If you saw my thread on the loadcenter switchout, I'm having a friend help me mount a new meter box and feed 2/0 SER cable both up the side of the house with a weatherhead and down into the basement in position for the new load center tomorrow.

I'll then have the POCO turn off the power to the house and switch out the loadcenters, and at the same time I'll have the inspector coming over later in the same day to inspect.

So here's a couple of questions I have related to code:

1. I have one wall where the studs were installed sideways - i.e. I have 2x4's are mounted such so that the wide side faces into the room. This was an added wall, the opposite side is a stairway. I need an outlet on this wall. I did install a box that fits the narrow edge of the stud and ran a wire down the narrow edge to the box. But I've read that having the wire closer than 1-1/4" to the surface, even if running along, not through, a framing member, could be a code violation. How can I properly run this wire? Running it along the back of the stud isn't really a feasible option, because even then at some point the wire will be coming off the back, and over to the mounted box.

2. Do most inspectors require the *entire* house to be finished? I did ask the inspector a month or so ago and it sounded like he'd be OK with only inspecting the first floor which is done. I am going to be also remodeling the second floor, and for now I don't care if it has electricity because I need to do a lot of tearout and stuff up there too. I was just going to disconnect all circuits in areas not yet finished being remodeled and only have power on to the circuits in the rooms that are finished. It sounded like he'd be OK with only approving those feeds which I've already set up (the main floor bathroom, living room, bedroom and dining/kitchen area). Is this something most inspectors will usually do? (This is important because if they won't restore power, I'm without heat. ;) )

3. I haven't installed my ceiling yet - I'm going to be installing a suspended ceiling. I'm going to be using flourescent fixtures which set in the grid for all the rooms which are done and ready for inspection. So far I've run the wires to the switches and up to a box in the ceiling, with a wire hanging down that's ready to connect to the fixture. Can I just leave it this way for rough inspection?

4. I do already have *some* drywall installed, but there is no drywall covering any areas where wiring is running in the walls. In other words, all wiring is visible. Is this OK, or do I need to get the person helping me with that to pull down all the sheets he's already mounted?...



ddawg16 01-18-2013 01:08 AM

I'm actually at about the same point as you.

As I understand it, they want to see all the wire ran to the boxes. I don't think they care if you have the actual switches or outlets installed. They know you have to remove them when you drywall. I believe you can just wirenut the ends and and leave them sticking out. That is what I'm doing.

Actually, all of my ckt's are powered up...a few of the boxes have outlets in them...because I'm using them. The others have pigtails on them with then ends wirenuted.

As long as you have all of your boxes in place and all of your wire going to them and properly secured, you should be good. And if he does find a couple of fix them and have them come back. Believe it or not, there is not extra charge for return inspections.

As a side note....I will on occasion ask for an inspection when I know I'm really not ready. I do this so I can ask questions on the actual topic or something else. I think my inspector knows I do this...but has never complained....and I think it makes him look good...he goes back to the office with a 'correction' ticket....shows that he is doing his job....but then again, I think my inspector does do his job.....he doesn't let out of code things slide...but is very fair....

fdmillion 01-18-2013 01:39 AM

Sounds good.

Guess I'll just call the inspector and have him come out, and ask him all my questions while he's there. I can ask him about that one wall with the studs facing the wrong way... I do have a code-check book but it doesn't really say what to do in instances like this. There's really no way to run the wire along that stud and have it be 1-1/4" back from the drywall... Wonder if I'll need to use some kind of conduit? Here's hoping for good news from the inspector.

Random question... Since I do have a gas furnace, the electrical demands are pretty low... Would anyone complain if I were to pull the line from the loadcenter, secure a standard plug to it, and extension-cord it outside to my generator? Just so I can have the furnace running - we're getting temps below 0 here!

(Waiting till summer wasn't an option... I started this project due to unsafe electrical problems which I've now corrected, but it really wasn't safe to wait.)

It would obviously never stay that way - this is only so I can have heat on during the inspection and such, and during the load center switchout.


ddawg16 01-18-2013 01:50 AM

On your temporary furnace long as the cord is secured to prevent damage and it's just temporary...I don't see it being an issue.

Even if it long as it's done safe, I would suspect the inspector just ignoring it.

Back when I was doing the new load center for my addition, I had a temp feed using SO cord from my existing panel to the new panel....I couldn't finish my 2nd story framing because the feed wires were in the way. When I was getting my new load center inspected we talked about my temp feed....the inspector said that I should have just moved my new wires over to the new panel along with the meter..put a tag on it showing the date and after the POCO came out to 'complete' the switch over...all would have been legal.

A lot of people b!tch about California...but I'm finding that I have it easier here than many other parts of the country.

electures 01-18-2013 07:32 AM

Refer to post #13 in this thread.

Windows 01-18-2013 10:41 AM

I had an inspector at my place yesterday in fact, and he told me flat out he prefers to come out for an inspection as questions arise, rather than at set points where he may have to recommend that work done unsafely be redone.

rrolleston 01-18-2013 05:50 PM

Is that wire 2/0 AL or CU wire?

rrolleston 01-18-2013 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1096160)
Believe it or not, there is not extra charge for return inspections.

Around here if you fail and you have to have him come back out you have to pay him.

fdmillion 01-18-2013 11:07 PM

rrolleston: 4/0 AL wire (actually 4/0,4/0,2/0 SER cable) for the service drop to the meter base, and into the house connecting to the main loadcenter. Copper (14/2, 14/3, 12/2, 12/3, etc.) for all the interior wiring.

You have to pay $35 for a reinspect if the inspector has to come out again after a fail. Not too bad actually. Worst part of that is being without power until he can schedule his return, but he does seem like he'll be very thorough as to what you need to fix to pass.

My second floor tearout is in progress and my kitchen may need some foundation work so I haven't done any rewiring in those two areas. I obviously didn't want to pull K&T into my loadcenter so I've left those circuits dead, but it did sound like the inspector would be OK with inspecting only the parts that I've finished, approving those parts, and allowing service to be energized to them.

Inspector is off today but works Monday, so going to schedule then! Wish me luck!


rrolleston 01-18-2013 11:32 PM


Originally Posted by fdmillion (Post 1096891)
You have to pay $35 for a reinspect if the inspector has to come out again after a fail. Not too bad actually. Worst part of that is being without power until he can schedule his return, but he does seem like he'll be very thorough as to what you need to fix to pass.

175 for inspection and 90 if he has to return for re inspection.

ddawg16 01-18-2013 11:57 PM

I'm starting to like California even more....

redjr 04-12-2014 06:47 PM

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I could bring it back to life a bit. :) What all is included in a 'rough' inspection? I understand, the framing and electrical are included, but what about insulation that's not covering any other work up? I've had my inspectors back for in progress 'walk-thrus' because I've had questions and they've really been helpful. I'd rather know that I'm doing something wrong than find out about it later! However, I can't recall what they've said about insulation - in or out? On 2 of my existing exterior walls, I've had to remove insulation to put in electrical and he said, just take it back out before the inspection.


brric 04-12-2014 07:43 PM

Inspectors usually get upset when insulation is installed before rough inspections of plumbing, electrical, mechanical and framing.

Jim Port 04-12-2014 07:47 PM

Insulation should not be installed until the rough in inspection for the electrical is finished.

redjr 04-12-2014 07:53 PM


Originally Posted by Jim Port (Post 1336054)
Insulation should not be installed until the rough in inspection for the electrical is finished.

OK. Thanks. I don't want to upset my inspector, but he's been out a couple of times for in-progress visits and likes what he sees. I've only put up a few batts between my ceiling floor joists just to see how it fits. I hope he doesn't mind. :) It's not covering any wiring, or other mechanical items. I have no plumbing and all electrical that I've done is clearly visible.


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