Replacing 240V Wall Heater with 240V Base Board Heater
My Dad has a 1950's-era home that runs everything electric. He has base board and/or wall heat throughout (240V). In the kitchen, he used to have a wall-mount heater (240V, not sure of W). He tore the wall out to install a doorwall, and now wants to replace with a base board heater (1000W, 240V).
After discussing with an electrician over the phone, he came up with a wiring diagram, but he wants to make sure it is correct before hooking it up. I would post it here, but he has no idea how to scan it into his computer, so I will do my best to describe it.
He was told that one lead of the circuit (red) would be connected to one end of the heater element, and the other lead (black) would be connected to the opposite end of the element. The neutral would just be connected to the unit's ground. The t-stat would be connected in-line with either lead (red or black). Not sure if it matters, but he has a Ouellet OFM1000.
First, does this sound correct? Second, would anyone be willing to do a quick sketch of this diagram? Any help would be appreciated.
Get a double pole t-stat if you have any chance of small children being around the heater. Better yet, just get a double pole t-stat. If you only have a 1p (which it sounds like you do) you run the remote chance of someone putting their fingers in the heater and grounding out to the case.
ASSUMING A PERFECT WORLD you would attach the red to one pole on the tstat and the black to the other. Then go into each side of the element. Then you attach the GROUND wire (not white, green or bare) to the casing.
I dont believe you are supposed to use the neutral conductor as an equipment ground. You only need to use 14/2 w/g Romex/NMB for this installation and tape the white as red OR use 14/3 w/ground, use the red, black, bare and terminate the neutral (white;cap it off)
I think you or your electrician needs to review the company's website for info. I got following from their site:
It will need some sort of control (see below instructions). Wiring will be determined by the type of control used. It also mentions elsewhere the need to use a ground wire (in addition to the neutral IMO).
"A wide selection of built-in thermostats available.
- Built-in thermostat kit can be installed at either end.
- Built-in relay kit fits in the right end box only.
- A low/high voltage separator plate (included with low
voltage relay kit) must be added when installing low
voltage relay in electric baseboard"
The neutral (white wire) should not be connected to the unit's ground. The ground connection should be a bare or green wire. In a 240 volt heater there is no need for a neutral, you only need 2 hot leads connected as you indicated. This can be run as a 2 wire cable remarking the white lead with black tape or marker to indicate a hot lead.
The t-stat should be a 2 pole device and should interrupt both hot sides of the circuit.
"In a 240 volt heater there is no need for a neutral, you only need 2 hot leads connected as you indicated."
How would a 240v system not need a neutral?
From their website:
1-Cut a hole in the box along the hash lines. Remove wire holder (or knock-out) of the appropriate junction box cover.
2-Make electrical connection according to the wiring diagram in accordance with local and national codes and replace wire holder. (Do not forget ground wire.)
3-Install the relay or thermostat by removing front panel and junction box coer.
4-Check wire connection at the other junction box.
5-Fasten the baseboard to the wall using wood screws, thighten then release 1/2 turn.
6-Replace all covers before energizing.
An ordinary 240 volt (240 volt only, no 120 volt electronic controls or circuit boards) heater does not need a neutral. If a red/white/black cable happened to be strung to it the white wire would be capped off and the red and black connected to the heater.
It should have read like that. Im sorry for the confusion.
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