DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Electrical (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/)
-   -   Replacing 240V fuses for dryer (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/replacing-240v-fuses-dryer-129517/)

Mark77 01-10-2012 05:36 PM

Replacing 240V fuses for dryer
 
So my dryer stopped heating but still tumbles. At the 4 prong socket I'm only getting 50 or 60v. I checked all the glass fuses for continuity- I think they are fine. There is a glass fuse box with a 230v 60a black holder that pulls out, inside there were 2 40a 250v fuses. These are not blown, but do show some resistance. Is it safe to replace these with the same (or are the fuses not the problem and they can only be blown/not blown?) or should I get 30a fuses? Or should I get a gas dryer :) ?

TarheelTerp 01-10-2012 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark77 (Post 818760)
At the 4 prong socket I'm only getting 50 or 60v.

Does your home have a circuit breaker panel of fuses?
What is the dryer fed from?

kbsparky 01-10-2012 06:23 PM

Those main fuses should show -0- resistance. Any other reading means you have a bad connection or blown fuses ...

Mark77 01-10-2012 06:36 PM

http://i39.tinypic.com/p2hz5.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/ixgnz7.jpg

Hmm I think my question is going to change... It seems that the dryer is actually being fed by that circuit breaker marked D/R, which comes off the main service breaker (marked 50A). The glass fuse panel runs from that, and that black pull out thing with the cartridge fuses I was asking about must be for the oven. So I guess the D/R circuit was added after? i shut it off, and the dryer socket is dead. I turn it back on, back to about 50V. Could it or the socket or the wiring be fried?

Mark77 01-10-2012 07:58 PM

When testing the socket,
putting the probes in on each side shows about 50v.
if i put the red probe in the right side, and touch the top or bottom hole with the black I get about 125v.
if i put the red probe in the left side, and touch top or bottom hole I get 0 (or pretty close to it- its an analog meter)

TarheelTerp 01-10-2012 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark77 (Post 818877)
if i put the red probe in the right side, and touch the top or bottom hole with the black I get about 125v. Good
if i put the red probe in the left side, and touch top or bottom hole I get 0 (or pretty close to it- its an analog meter)Not Good

Hot to ground (red or black) should be 125V
Hot to hot should be 240V
You appear to have lost a leg.

Going back to the fuse box... can you identify HOW that wire is being fed?
There should be TWO fuses... one for each leg.

jbfan 01-10-2012 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark77 (Post 818877)
When testing the socket,
putting the probes in on each side shows about 50v.
if i put the red probe in the right side, and touch the top or bottom hole with the black I get about 125v.
if i put the red probe in the left side, and touch top or bottom hole I get 0 (or pretty close to it- its an analog meter)

You have lost that leg.
Have you reset the breaker?

Mark77 01-10-2012 08:07 PM

If you look at the top picture, that breaker marked D/R below the service panel shuts off all power to the socket. I don't think the fuse box is feeding the dryer at all? or could that breaker only be 1 leg?? i didn't check each side with it off, just hot to hot.

jbfan 01-10-2012 08:10 PM

Since you do not have full power at the receptacle, you need to check back at the breaker.
If you are not comfortable looking in the panel, you will have to call an electrician.

Mark77 01-10-2012 08:11 PM

i reset the breaker a couple of times tonight when i was checking the socket,
and i have reset the main service breaker yesterday when I was trying to figure it out..
is there an order I should do it in?

jbfan 01-10-2012 08:24 PM

You have to work back from the receptacle.
This means checking the the power at the breaker.
Do you have any other 240 loads?
Are you haveing any other electrcial problems?

It is up to you to decide if you want to work in the panel.

Mark77 01-10-2012 08:26 PM

I think I found it!
I didn't realize that D/R breaker actually contained glass fuses (2x30A). It was sort of stuck shut before.
Sure enough.. 1 of them is blown.. the other shows wavering 1-2Ohm resistance so I'm off to find replacements for both.

Mark77 01-10-2012 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbfan (Post 818906)
You have to work back from the receptacle.
This means checking the the power at the breaker.
Do you have any other 240 loads?
Are you haveing any other electrcial problems?

It is up to you to decide if you want to work in the panel.

The other 240 load is our oven, which i assume runs from the cartridge fuses in the black thing in the glass fuse panel. Sometimes it does have problems getting up to full heat actually.. I'm thinking I should replace those fuses as well since they were showing some resistance..
If the dryer and oven are on at the same time, and we start the microwave, the service breaker pops.

junkcollector 01-10-2012 08:34 PM

Now to find out why it blew in the first place. Some of the possiblities could be there is a problem with the dryer heating element which you will find if the fuse blows again when you go to use the dryer, but I've also seen fuses blow because the fuse wasn't making good contact with the socket contacts- poor contact causes heat that thermally melts the fuse.

If you don't mind me asking, what is in the black cabinet above the dryer fusebox?

Mark77 01-10-2012 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junkcollector (Post 818917)
Now to find out why it blew in the first place. Some of the possiblities could be there is a problem with the dryer heating element which you will find if the fuse blows again when you go to use the dryer, but I've also seen fuses blow because the fuse wasn't making good contact with the socket contacts- poor contact causes heat that thermally melts the fuse.

If you don't mind me asking, what is in the black cabinet above the dryer fusebox?

Well I replaced the 2 fuses and it seems to be working again.. just going to do a test run now. Could the fuses have blown from age? They seemed pretty old.. And one of them wasn't exactly blown but the Ohm meter was wavering all over the place. Or possibly from multiple trips of the service breaker from having too much going at once? I'm pretty sure a dryer overload could do it which also may have happened..


Going to be very careful not to run the dryer with the oven or microwave on or much else.. I probably will look into getting a gas dryer since it is right beside the furnace anyway and the lines are right there. Don't want to upgrade our electrical system right now as we're planning major renovation (possibly building a whole new house) in the next couple years.


The black cabinet:
http://i43.tinypic.com/iep991.jpg
and its got a bunch of wires inside:) didnt take a pic


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:52 PM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved