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|04-08-2008, 03:27 PM||#16|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: central wisconsin
Posts: 989Rewards Points: 514
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
|04-08-2008, 04:11 PM||#17|
Sure does. Cars are full of electricity (and plumbing, and heating and air conditioning, and motors, and transformers and switches and breakers and electronic devices).
Does that make me an expert, hell no and I'm not pretending to be an expert, but it does provide insight to my technical abilities. Hopefully, I don't come off as a smart-a$$ know it all either.
I do have a pro coming out tomorrow to survey the damage.
I feel for the guy. More than once, I've had someone tow their car into the shop, with a box of parts and say "I took my car apart and can't seem to put it back-together - can you please fix my screw up?"
I get it -
|04-08-2008, 05:14 PM||#18|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,294Rewards Points: 1,000
Skip the sub panel and use a full 40 space panel. $130 bucks.
In my area they ALWAYS allow the romex to be sleeved outside......but it is against code. NEC considers inside the conduit to be a "wet location" if it's outside and romex isn't reated for wet locations.
Double check with them first.
Be sure and leave a couple inches of sheath on the romex into the panel.
I think you can do it. A good mechanic is a good mechanic. In your case, you will be able to complete a lot of the work ahead of time since you are relocating the service.
Keep in mind that your ufer or ground rods will have to connect to the new meter/panel along with your water and gas bond.
|04-09-2008, 07:11 AM||#19|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 79Rewards Points: 75
Leonard...Roger..I see that you are good to go mechanically
* I still stress the NUMERO UNO item to be taken care of is
knowing what actual load you are really using before adding anymore
* adding a 240v 50amp per leg inrush load...WILL affect the current load
* this is the one simple step that saves a bunch of grief later . .I have
seen too too many times . . . .additions to the panel/load . . .just like
this..add Lo & Behold when we have sucessfully completed all of the
mechanical aspects of the work . . .we dropped the ball on the very
first electrical requirement
and then the breaker / breakers start tripping
and then a larger service is required and we tear out
quite a bit of what was mechanically swell but electrically
do this first before you do anything else . .so you'll know
where you are at ELECTRICALLY . .if after powering up the house
IE lights TV's washer / dryewr/ AV must be running . .AND read
amperage on the inrushes
if you are anywheres near ...say 70% of the dervice connected to
your home and you are not CURRENTLY popping breakers
you must make an electrically sound decision / with all new loads
and inrushes factored in before plunging ahead
I wont bother you with the Call I got from wealthy fella
with gorgeous home on the Golf course . . large wonderful home . .
actually had the inground pool installed.....the spa...the BBQ...some fairly
elaborate exterior lighting . .had the GC I work with at times . .build
all of this . . . . . . .stationed the pool and pump equipment . .over 70
feet away from the pool/spa . .massive inrush to start pushing that
then called me to hook it all up to the main panel
needless to say..after I told him what would have to
transpire ( need and much larger service ) I had to
scrap him off of the ceiling.
he did not have me do the work . . .he had someone
the GC knew patch it into the existing panel
I got a call from the GC..wondering what I could do
about the main breaker tripping incessantly . .I relayed the
above paragraph to him
pool/spa/BBQ...party lighting is now non-functional
awaiting the new and much larger service
Leonard..you have a meter..seriously load the house
and obtain those readings,,you'll be happy you did
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