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Old 02-03-2012, 12:10 AM   #1
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Removing the bonding screw


I've just installed a small sub panel that contains only 1 - 15 Amp GFI breaker for our new hot tub. The panel is next to my main panel. Do I remove the neutral bonding screw ? I am thinking "yes". Or will that effect the operation of the GFI breaker which has the load side neutral connected to the breaker.

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Old 02-03-2012, 12:22 AM   #2
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Removing the bonding screw


It should have four wires if 240v sub panel and the bonding screw should be removed.

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Old 02-03-2012, 12:33 AM   #3
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Removing the bonding screw


If it has a bonding screw are the neutral and ground busses also connected together?
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:40 AM   #4
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Removing the bonding screw


Plummen, is that not what the screw does, bond the neutral to the frame ? As an afterthought this little panel has room for an additional breaker ( unused ). I am going to check the catalogue number on line, maybe it is considered to be more of a means for disconnect and it is not really considered a subpanel ? At this time it is fed with 12/2 from a 20 amp single pole breaker in the main panel into the 15 amp GFI and out with 12/2 to the tub. ( Could have been 14/2 to the tub which is 120 V / 8.9 amp draw ) There is a neutral bar in the subpanel with a removable bonding screw and also there is a ground screw (s) bolted to the cabinet.

Last edited by Sammy 2; 02-03-2012 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:43 AM   #5
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Removing the bonding screw


I mean the jumper between the 2 seperate buss bars,the bonding screw normally goes through it to bond both buss bars to the case.
Do you have a picture of inside your panel?
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:58 AM   #6
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Removing the bonding screw


Why would you have used this panel if you had room in your panel for another breaker?
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:23 AM   #7
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Removing the bonding screw


Let's start from the beginning. Does this hot tub only require Single phase 240? If so, it should not have a sub-panel, but a pull-disconnect, such as used with a a/c, or a gfci breaker, and a outlet, that the cord from the hottub is attached to, that plugs into said protected outlet. That means, if it does not require two hots, or a combo of 120/240, then it should only have three wires.

If it requires 120/240, then yes, it should have four wires, and as such, it should be wired accordingly.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:42 AM   #8
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Removing the bonding screw


As long as you have seperate bars for the neutral and dround wires, remove the screw.
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:00 AM   #9
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Removing the bonding screw


Disconnect or remove the bonding bar, if any, running between the ground bus bar and the neutral bus bar from the neutral bar.

Remove the bonding screw, if any, in the neutral bus bar.

The ground bus bar needs to be bonded to the panel, by being fastened to the panel back with metal to metal contact, or by having a bonding screw of its own that is digging into the panel back, or with a bracket or jumper wire attached to the panel back.
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:31 AM   #10
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Removing the bonding screw


Thanks everyone, I have it figured out now.

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