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Old 07-16-2012, 09:55 PM   #16
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relay switching.......


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Originally Posted by Protocol. View Post
how much 'low voltage' is this? I would personally use an ice cube style plug in relay. You would need your dehumidifier power to pass through the relay contacts and the coil to interact with the condensate pump. Either that or wire up your own float switch as to 'shut off' coil voltage when normally closed float switch opens.

The problem is not knowing anything really about the safety switch and how it interacts with the condensate pump. I would just say hook up the coil in series with the switch. When the switch opens, coil voltage is cut, and the closed contacts open to shut the dehumidifier off. It's impossible to say if that would work though without knowing the wiring.
You guys are not getting the setup here...

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Old 07-16-2012, 09:56 PM   #17
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relay switching.......


You can get a "donut" CT (current Transformer) solid state NO/NC switch, that will change state when current is drawn through the conductor which the CT is monitoring. All you need to do from there is to hook up an ice-cube relay to give you a N/C in series with the dehumidifier power circuit conductors. When the CT senses current being drawn by the pump conductor, it will send voltage to the ice-cube relay that will change state to N/O, and break the circuit to the dehumidifier -- preventing it from starting. When the pump stops, the relay will send the counter signal, closing the relay, and the dehumidifier will come on line again.
Note! This is old technology. The components are cheap, readily available...and mostly monolithic. (If I can't git a screw driver on it...I don't want it)...)
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:13 PM   #18
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relay switching.......


Use one of these with the relay I mentioned earlier. Avoids the cross connecting issues of a switch in the condensate pump with its purpose and that of a high impedance dry contact relay input.

http://www.pexsupply.com/DiversiTech...e-Float-Switch


Of course if you use a few bricks and pieces of wood you could probably raise the height of the condensate pump such that if it stops pumping the float switch in the dehumidifier would shut off the dehumidifier if the tank didn't drain. Just set height of condensate pump so that just before it spills over its reservoir the switch in the dehumidifier is opened shutting the dehumidifier off. This assumes you would still have some gravity drain to the condensate pump which I can't be sure of without seeing your setup.

btw they make dehumidifiers with built in condensate pumps. Might be cheaper just to get a new one than add all this jerry rigging.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:54 AM   #19
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relay switching.......


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Use one of these and you won't need a power supply. It is looking for a dry contact switch to control it. The device is UL listed so you won't be violating NEC using it. Also due to nature of dry contacts it is well isolated from the 120VAC side so you can use class 2 wiring for the dry contact side. Just be sure you wire it into a float switch that is not powered by other means.... i.e. don't cross connect the dry contact leads with power switching within the condensate pump. That could damage one or both devices.


http://www.functionaldevices.com/bui...model=RIB01BDC
Perfect, Thanks! And thanks for all the other responses, very helpful.

A little more info for those who asked:

The condensate pump has a float that operates a switch. That switch is unpowered - that is it provides dry-contact switching. The switch can be changed to "NO" or "NC." The switch has two 18awg CU wire stubs provided for switching operations.

The dehumidier is 120VAC, I'm not sure on the amp draw...maybe between 6-10 amps. The dehumidifer sits in the basement at a hunting camp and it maybe 2-3 weeks in the summer before someone is there to check on it.

I just had a couple of questions for you guys:

The link I posted was to a solid-state relay rated to 25A 120vac. The comment was that it probibly wouldn't work without a heat sink - meaning it would over heat, is that true? Why is it rated to 25A then?

Also an ice cube relay was suggested a couple of times. Is a cube realy a solid-state relay or electromagnetic? If I went this route could I mount the relay within a 4"x4" j-box? metal or plastic?
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:00 PM   #20
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relay switching.......


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Originally Posted by sorethumber View Post
Perfect, Thanks! And thanks for all the other responses, very helpful.

A little more info for those who asked:

The condensate pump has a float that operates a switch. That switch is unpowered - that is it provides dry-contact switching. The switch can be changed to "NO" or "NC." The switch has two 18awg CU wire stubs provided for switching operations.

The dehumidier is 120VAC, I'm not sure on the amp draw...maybe between 6-10 amps. The dehumidifer sits in the basement at a hunting camp and it maybe 2-3 weeks in the summer before someone is there to check on it.

I just had a couple of questions for you guys:

The link I posted was to a solid-state relay rated to 25A 120vac. The comment was that it probibly wouldn't work without a heat sink - meaning it would over heat, is that true? Why is it rated to 25A then?

Also an ice cube relay was suggested a couple of times. Is a cube realy a solid-state relay or electromagnetic? If I went this route could I mount the relay within a 4"x4" j-box? metal or plastic?
Well since the switch in the condensate pump is open and not used by another circuit then I recommend the dry contact relay I suggested earlier. It is UL listed, it has a mechanical relay in it (so no heating issues as with solid state), has ample contact rating for your application, and is self powered so no secondary power supply required. At about $30 for the unit it's hard to see how you could do this any cheaper.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:02 PM   #21
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relay switching.......


1. Can I fasten the Functional Devices RIB01BDC to a knockout on a 4" square box, feed a power cord with a plug into the box through a second knockout/NM connector, install a receptacle on the box cover, and install mini jacks on the cover with the dry contact relay leads or just run the leads through the box cover through grommets?
2. I assume the incoming black wire connects to the relay black wire, the relay white wire (with black tape added) connects to the gold terminal of the receptacle, the incoming white wire connects to the silver terminal of the receptacle, and the incoming ground wire connects to the receptacle ground and the metal box.
3. Plug power cord into a 120V wall receptacle.
4. Plug condensate pump and dehumidifier into receptacle on box.
5. Connect condensate safety switch leads to relay dry contact leads.
6. The result is that the dehumidifier and condensate pump work normally until the pump safety switch trips, which turns off 120 volt power to the receptacle on the box cover.
Is this correct and legal per code?
BTW, I did find an ADD (automatic dehumidifier disconnect) by Jackson Systems at iaqsource.com for $54.99 plus $11.50 shipping.

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