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Old 05-01-2009, 06:56 PM   #1
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recessed lighting


I am in the process of doing remolding on my house (older house) and now opened up space which i want to do recessed lights. I will be doing new work i/c can as i can get in my attic relatively easy in most parts. My questions are....

4 or 5" for general lighting, i think i like the look of 4 but not sure if a par20 bulb will be enough. How much should i space these. And as of right now i plan on having them all on dimmers. What dimmers can handle the assorment of lights should i just go ahead and get the 1000w(sorry lowes has 600 or 1000 so im not to in depth in these yet) Also is there really a quality difference btw the ebay/cheap lowes vs the halos etc?

and should i use 14 or 12ga for the new lights,

right now per breaker all at 20 amps... if this matter want to make sure im not overdoing anything
the kitchen is on its on circuit
the dining area is on its on although i may not do this one and just have a chandelier
family room is shared with guest bath
living area is on its own
and the hallway will be shared with 3 bedrooms

sorry for the crappy drawing made it up just a few seconds ago pretty much goes like this.

thanks just want to make sure im doing this correctly
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Last edited by sidewayzisbest; 05-01-2009 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:29 PM   #2
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There is a difference in manufacturers of recessed lighting. IMO Halo's are the best and come with the best choice of trims for your project. I would encourage you to use the better product based on on my own experiences in installing crap. Trust me on this one.

As for your lighting circuits, use whatever circuit is there now for the new recessed lights. Your brief description of the existing wiring seems to indicate that you'll be ok adding 400 watts of light per room. 400 watts/ 120 volts = 3 amps. I would take an educated guess and say you're ok there.

As for spacing of the lights. Here's how I like to do it if you're looking for the most ambient lighting in an area.... Say the room 10x10. I like to space the lights so that there is even lighting throughout the room. Put your first light 30" off the wall (1/4 the distance of the length of the room), and then do the same for the light on the other side of the wall. Do this method for all 4 of the lights.

Or remember it like this, the distance off the wall will be twice that of the space between each light. This will give you the best possible amount of light for an area.

Good luck.


Last edited by Magnettica; 05-01-2009 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:31 PM   #3
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oH, and before I forget, if you use IC cans be sure to check the wattage rating inside the can. You may not be able to use a wattage you want if the light isn't rated for it.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:43 PM   #4
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thanks for the help!
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:45 PM   #5
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Don't kill yourself ok!
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:21 PM   #6
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was talking to the fiance what if i had the sitting area / tv room on one switch and had it where the hall way lights lined up with the tv/sitting room light set

something like this


the housing i plan is a 5" air tight i/c halo housing...with a white baffle trim rated at max r30 75watt would this be enough for general lighting. Or i could bring in the ends maybe a foot in leaving it to be 6' to the middle or so

Or should i still try to get a set of 8 in there thanks
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:26 PM   #7
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edit n/m thats not going to work out to well

anyone know of a program that i could plug the deminsion in and have some sort of a idea how it would look like?
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Old 05-02-2009, 04:40 PM   #8
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Ford, The protocol here is not to hi-jack someone else's thread. You should start a new thread for your question.
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnettica View Post
oH, and before I forget, if you use IC cans be sure to check the wattage rating inside the can. You may not be able to use a wattage you want if the light isn't rated for it.
Very good reply on Posts 2 and 3. The only thing I would add is that is on that wattage rating. The safest thing is to download the mfg product info for the type of can because the can wattage can be limited furthur by the type of bulb and by the Trim (e.g. eyeballs or wall washers).

For example Halo IC AIR-Tite:
http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi...pdf/H7ICAT.pdf
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaliBob View Post
Ford, The protocol here is not to hi-jack someone else's thread. You should start a new thread for your question.

sorry that was me, must of registered on here long time ago and didn't know i need to get that name deleted



just installed the first box

i have to say pretty easy box wise. I got the H5ICAT didn't get a hole saw drill bit( didn't have size at lowes) i cut mine at 5-5/8" for it just use my old drywall saw. Biggest problem was insullation. This house for some reason has about 10" of loose insulation. But location was easy to put btw the raptors, i use the drop down feature to reach my ceiling hieght. Put a 5001P trim on it that was pretty easy. I am pretty happy about going with the halo. I just did the hallway since i know thats not going to change in configuration. And since it was already setup with 3 way switches on either side im hoping eletrical part of this will be easy too.

messed up on the bulb the trim looks so long so i just grabed a long neck Par 30 just one figure i get the rest cheaper on enet, didn't realize the trim has a lower setting on it for the par 30 so oops. Really would like to use the energy effiecent ones but the one in the other rooms i want to dim and figure i need to make them all match...Heard bad things about the cfl that are "dimmable"

Last edited by sidewayzisbest; 05-02-2009 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:29 PM   #11
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Sidewayz, I thought it was weird that someone else had such a similar problem and just jumped in.

You are off to a great start. With that 5001P trim you can go up to a 50W PAR20 or a 65W BR30.
http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi...pdf/H5ICAT.pdf

The BR30's look good and are generally around $3

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewayzisbest View Post
..... I got the H5ICAT didn't get a hole saw drill bit, I cut mine at 5-5/8" for it just use my old drywall saw.
That's a good solution. To catch most of the drywall, here is a circle cutter hole saw that has a dust shield .
https://aikencolon.3dcartstores.com/..._p_0-1139.html
.
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Old 05-03-2009, 01:26 AM   #12
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Glad to hear it's working out well for you. It's not really that hard until you come up to a snag like a plumbing pipe in the way of where you want to put a light. That's where the experience of a real electrician comes into play but hopefully this won't happen for you.

Btw, I wouldn't worry about there being "too much insulation" because that's actually a good thing as long as it's done correctly and the attic is able to vent properly.

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