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Old 04-20-2011, 06:01 PM   #16
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Re-routing wires


let me be clear, MN cable(romex) is allowed to be run exposed. However it is frowned upon by electricians and some inspectors will not allow it. It must be supported(staple) with in 8" of a box. Yes you would be with in code to have the cable come out of the drywall of the ceiling and in to a box (boxes have to be supported) nailed say to the top of the cabinet, then to run a cable across the top to another box and then back in to the drywall. But a much better way to do it is to install a box recessed so the the face of the box and its cover will be flush with the ceiling, run a short piece of cable thru a hole drilled in the top plate to your second splice box installed in the back wall, which will also contain the other end of the original cable. install drywall(you have to have drywall behind cabinets) and every thing is inside, and clean looking, the only thing one could see even if they looked above the crown molding is two cover plates.

edit: Just in case it wasn't clear the boxes don't have to be accessible, just the splices contained with in them, so as long as you can take a black cover off and repair the splice your are good.

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Last edited by Saturday Cowboy; 04-20-2011 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:03 PM   #17
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Re-routing wires


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The wiring is currently not in the wall!
when the wiring was in the soffit it is considered in the wall
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:02 AM   #18
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Re-routing wires


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let me be clear, MN cable(romex) is allowed to be run exposed. However it is frowned upon by electricians and some inspectors will not allow it. It must be supported(staple) with in 8" of a box. Yes you would be with in code to have the cable come out of the drywall of the ceiling and in to a box (boxes have to be supported) nailed say to the top of the cabinet, then to run a cable across the top to another box and then back in to the drywall. But a much better way to do it is to install a box recessed so the the face of the box and its cover will be flush with the ceiling, run a short piece of cable thru a hole drilled in the top plate to your second splice box installed in the back wall, which will also contain the other end of the original cable. install drywall(you have to have drywall behind cabinets) and every thing is inside, and clean looking, the only thing one could see even if they looked above the crown molding is two cover plates.

edit: Just in case it wasn't clear the boxes don't have to be accessible, just the splices contained with in them, so as long as you can take a black cover off and repair the splice your are good.
I may do just that, except I will put the j boxes in the wall, just above the cabinets, so the cover plates would not be visible from the floor (hidden by the crown molding).

Thus far I have only looked into the soffit thru holes I made. Shortly (like within the hour) I am going to remove the drywall so I can get a better view and hopefully figure out which wires go where, and if I have any slack to work with that would minimize splicing and j box use. I will post a photo when I get the drywall removed.

Now I believe this to be undesireable, but might be necessary: can I notch out the edge of a stud to tuck the wires into the wall or ceiling? If I can do this it would minimize my splicing.
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:06 AM   #19
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Re-routing wires


Photos attached. The 2nd photo shows my main problem, wires from below going to 2nd floor, no slack, and no easy way to reroute them. Even splicing them looks like it might be tough.
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Re-routing wires-wiring1.jpg   Re-routing wires-wiring2.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:13 AM   #20
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yes you can notch a stud if you cover it with a nail plate.
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:49 AM   #21
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Re-routing wires


With my new cabinet layout I will need to move my range outlet one stud over. Can I just run the existing wire to the other side of the stud and lower the new outlet as necessary to compensate for the lack of slack in the line?
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:43 AM   #22
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With my new cabinet layout I will need to move my range outlet one stud over. Can I just run the existing wire to the other side of the stud and lower the new outlet as necessary to compensate for the lack of slack in the line?
Most freestanding ranges have an indent in the back panel to allow for the plug when you slide the range back in. Locate the outlet to match up with the indent.
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:59 AM   #23
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Most freestanding ranges have an indent in the back panel to allow for the plug when you slide the range back in. Locate the outlet to match up with the indent.
I need to move the outlet because I am moving the range 9", and the new cabinets will cover the current outlet location. Could I just use the current box as a junction, and run a short wire to a new box on the other side of the stud?
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:11 AM   #24
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I need to move the outlet because I am moving the range 9", and the new cabinets will cover the current outlet location. Could I just use the current box as a junction, and run a short wire to a new box on the other side of the stud?
I don't see why not, as long as you put a hole for the box in the back of the cabinet and make the junction box accessible from inside. I believe that would be code, but I'm not an electrician.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:46 AM   #25
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Re-routing wires


With that many circuits you are going to need some large boxes, at least 38 cu in. (Do a search on "box fill" to learn how to perform an exact calculation.) Make sure you have room for them in or on your wall. You're also looking at a lot of splices/wire nuts.

Is there any way to keep the soffit? Or are you stuck?

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Old 05-02-2011, 12:12 PM   #26
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With that many circuits you are going to need some large boxes, at least 38 cu in. (Do a search on "box fill" to learn how to perform an exact calculation.) Make sure you have room for them in or on your wall. You're also looking at a lot of splices/wire nuts.

Is there any way to keep the soffit? Or are you stuck?

RST
I want the soffit gone! Thus far I have re routed 2 wires and believe I will be able to take care of 4 others. I may only have to splice 5 wires to clean this all up.
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Old 05-02-2011, 04:43 PM   #27
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Re-routing wires


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With my new cabinet layout I will need to move my range outlet one stud over. Can I just run the existing wire to the other side of the stud and lower the new outlet as necessary to compensate for the lack of slack in the line?
this should be pretty easy, especially if moveing it in the direction that the wire comes from.(gain length) what i would do is cut hole in drywall at the new stove plug location the size of a 2 gang old work box. disconnect the conductors and push out of the original box. remove old box so as to be able to pull the nearest staple. reach up inside wall from new hole and grab wire. once you have wire in new location begin reinstallation. patch drywall.

It can be harder if moving away from the direction the cable comes from. But same theory applys. save you will now need to drill a stud.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:43 PM   #28
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I want the soffit gone! Thus far I have re routed 2 wires and believe I will be able to take care of 4 others. I may only have to splice 5 wires to clean this all up.
Sounds like you have it under control then. Just making sure you were really sure about that soffit!

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