Question on Code w/regards to holes in Meter Bases or Panels etc.

tsenator

Hi all. New participant - this looks like a great resource.

Here is my question (I think I know the answer but want to double check with the folks here).

What does the "Code" say w/regards to creating your own holes in Meter Bases or Panels etc.

We all know that the pre-punched holes in Meter Bases and Panels are rarely where you want them and a lot of labor and material can be saved if you place the conduit and the cables where you need them.

I am trying to make a clean "back-to-back" installation of a 200A Meter base to a 200A Service Disconnect. The Holes don't line up whatsoever.

As an FYI this will be an outdoor "Pole Type" meter installation from an Underground feed kind of like a Temporary service but I am making this the permanent service point (House is not built yet)

tsenator

and its ok to make your own knockouts/holes in the boxes. I was just wanted to make 100% sure

kbsparky

NEMA 3R enclosures have specific requirements as to where standard knockouts are permitted. That is, to retain the 3R weatherproof rating.

That being said, I routinely cut my own knockouts in such enclosures, when doing so helps with orientation of equipment enclosures. But the one thing to keep in mind here is if you want to cut your own hole(s), then you should ensure that it is at the same or lower level as those provided by the factory.

If that is not practical, then you should utilize sealing locknuts or special hubs to prevent water leakage/seepage from entering the enclosure.

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tsenator

Thanks yes - I do plan on having it fully watertight. This is an outdoor Nema 3 enclosure and I plan on having this new cutout hole above the existing prefabed ones (which are on the bottom). It does have a Hub location with plate at the top though. But just one last question - is it against code to make your own holes on a Nema 3 Outdoor enclosure (not withstanding that its watertight after you do it)

J. V.

I would not make any holes. Put the meter on top and use the prefabed hub hole for the panel on the bottom. I cannot see a "clean back to back" installation on a pole.

If you must make holes. Do not make them in the top of the enclosure. Make them as far down the side or back as possible.

tsenator

Sorry I should have expalined the situation a little better. This meter and service will not be on a single (6x6) pole, but rather on a permanent type outdoor installation with a mini roof cover. Picture in your mind two 4x4 posts imebbeded in concrete with a 3/4" plywood board between the two with a little roof and shingles. Kind of like a mini structure.

I am not thinking of a single 6x6 post, but if I did entering the panel from the top would make complete sense.

This set up would have the meter in the front of the covered 3/4" plywood board and the panel directly on the back of that 3/4" plywood board . That is why I want to feed directly out of the back of the meter into the back (near the top) of the panel.

Does that make sense?

J. V.

Yes, it sounds like a house trailer pedestal to me. Why not both meter and panel on the front of the board? Then run a short nipple between them, at the bottom. Thats traditional. The way it's usually done. You have a special reason for doing it this way?

Note: Hold both meter can and panel back to back. You are saying nothing lines up? You know they do not have to be perfect since each enclosure has its own side of the board. Both the meter can and panel must have KO's at about the same location. Or very close.

tsenator

JV- thanks for the input

it is very much like a home made trailer pedestal and Yes you are correct I could have both the meter and the disconnect/breaker box side by side in the front. (traditional way)

I was doing it with the disconnect/breaker box on the back mostly for aesthetics.

The disconnect/breaker box I was looking at is an Eaton (Cutler Hammer PN # BR816B200RF) It has the traditional top feed for a rainproof conduit hub and that would make a much neater wiring inside the box (instead of up one side from the bottom). But coming out of the meter bottom and into the top of the breaker box into the conduit hub would make the bottom a bit too low for my tastes .

I guess I could feed this breaker box from the meter at the bottom and route the service wire along the side gutter to the top where the service disconnect breaker is, but its really made to feed from the top.

300zx

Why not go with something like this Meter Main combo

tsenator

But I already have the meter pan and the breaker box.

Plus Orange and Rocklad (local POCO) didn't have any 200A on its approved Meter list and I wanted to abide strickly by what they approved

http://www.oru.com/documents/program...fContained.pdf

All they had was a temp service 100A all in one combo

J. V.

Lets clear this up. Mount your meter and panelboard as you please. Make any holes near the bottom on the sides and back only. If you MUST enter the top, enter the top where you have provision for the hub. NEMA 3R enclosures should have this provision.

It's to bad you already have the equipment. The meter main 300zx shows above is an excellent choice. As a matter of fact, it would be my choice for any residential services. It is simply the best way to go.