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ZackHagenseker 12-19-2012 07:08 PM

Question about power receptacle
I'm building a pedal board (for effects pedals for electric guitar in case you were wondering...) and I want to run power into the board. I want to do it like this. Wall outlet >> power cord >> into one of these >> light switch >> internal power outlet >> power supply. So here's my question. Can I use the above linked receptacle to run power to an outlet? They are for for guitar amps and they're of course on computers and such as well but I've never seen one used to power an outlet. is this possible? Thanks for the help and please keep in mind that I know very little about electronics past wiring an outlet!

Also, instead of a light switch I would rather use something like this: ... Is this possible? I'm not holding my breath on this one. I'm assuming that the power running through it would be too much. A regular SPST switch would do as well. If this would work, what exactly would I need. Thanks again!

TTW 12-19-2012 07:45 PM

That switch is 12v, no good for you, and if it is to be foot operated would break quickly. I'll find you a link, just give me a few.

Wall outlet >> power cord >> into one of these >> light switch >> internal power outlet >> power supply.

Can't visualize this, is it from the wall to a "box" then from that box to a pedal?

ZackHagenseker 12-19-2012 07:51 PM

I actually just found a picture of basically what I'm trying to do (except mine is much better looking :thumbsup:). It looks like he is using the same concept as far as the receptacle here without the switch. Anything I should know here?

teamo 12-19-2012 07:52 PM

They sell all kinds of power supply options for the pedal boards. I would go to some of the guitar suppliers and see what they have. Most of the board power supplies are 9 volt modular that you can plug multiple effects into. Also I would go on some guitar forums and see what they have to offer for advise.

ZackHagenseker 12-19-2012 07:59 PM

Yeah the standard is the Voodoo labs power supply, but I'm using just a 9v simple power cord supply with a daisy chain. The outlet is so I can plug that into the board instead of the wall for a cleaner look. Also just cause I can't keep my hands off things when it comes to building stuff. haha I couldn't stop with just building the board. :) Also I can't afford a Voodoo labs :(

mpoulton 12-19-2012 08:23 PM

You could use that IEC receptacle (the standard inlet connector for electronic devices), but it has exposed terminals and you need to solder to them. So it's not ideal for someone who doesn't do electronics work, and it's definitely not good for a typical pedal board that doesn't have an "inside" to it where the exposed terminals would be protected. If you're building a box of some kind for it to go in then that's fine. What do you want to accomplish with the switch? A light switch (and most other switches) stay in whatever position you leave them. The switch you linked to does not - it's a momentary pushbutton switch, so it's only on while it is being pushed. If you want a switch that can be turned off and on by foot but is continuous not momentary, then you need a "push-on push-off" switch, and you probably want one that's designed to be stepped on. Here's one: Part #7024K14 You can probably find something else cheaper if you look around, especially in surplus catalogs.

TTW 12-19-2012 08:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
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Momentary N.O. Heavy Duty Push Button Switch 125VAC 4A

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Reviews (1 Reviews)

Product Q&A

1 Question | 2 Answers
Read all the Q&As

Overview Heavy duty push button momentary switch. Specifications: ē Current rating: 4A @ 125 VAC, 2A @ 250 VAC ē Shaft diameter: 12.2 mm (31/64") ē Contacts: 2.
Part #: 060-650 Weight: 0.01 lbs.

mpoulton 12-19-2012 08:31 PM

Now that I've seen that pic I have a better idea of what you're thinking of. Not the typical sheet-of-plywood pedal board! If I were you, I would use an outboard power supply. Either a wall wart, or an inline adapter. It's much lighter and more space efficient than installing a 120V receptacle inside your board and then plugging something into it. If you really want the power supply inside the thing, then find one that has an IEC receptacle built in already and install it. Something like this: It uses the smaller 2-conductor IEC cable, but that's probably fine.

TTW 12-19-2012 08:53 PM

Do you know much power - watts or amps - each pedal needs? and how many pedals will this need to power?

TTW 12-19-2012 09:24 PM

I can see why they are pricey. Theo do look cool tho...

Isolation is more than fixing ground loops.
Ground loops cause hum, and the solution is to break the unwanted ground path. Isolation is the best way to do it. Unlike other power supplies, Pedal Power 2 Plus isolates EVERY output. This eliminates tone robbing interaction between units. Now you can properly power everything from vintage overdrives to modern digital marvels that others just canít!

Proprietary balanced transformer makes it possible.
A typical transformer, like those used in a wall wart, creates a large magnetic field that causes hum in any audio path near it. Pedal Power 2 Plus uses a custom designed, ultra-low noise toroidal transformer, with separate balanced windings for every output. Now even the most sensitive pedals can be dead quiet.
Switching power supplies arenít for everything.
Whatís good for charging a cell phone is NOT good for your pedals. While digital switching power supplies are small and inexpensive, they also generate unpredictable transients and extraneous noise. Pedal Power 2 Plus uses an audiophile quality linear supply for consistently stable, clean, pure power.

mpoulton 12-19-2012 11:09 PM

Typical audiophile mumbo jumbo to justify a crazy price. Isolated outputs may be helpful, but probably don't matter a bit since all of the ground paths are connected together via the audio cables anyway. (OK, it's a bit more complicated than that, but the bottom line is that ground loops are not a real issue within the context of a physically small group of devices running on a common DC supply). The "balanced transformer" stuff is total fluff. All transformers are "balanced", and they all have closed magnetic paths. Toroidal transformers produce less of an external magnetic field, but it REALLY doesn't matter enough to worry about here. The switching power supply part is the last straw. Of course some switching power supplies are noisy. So are plenty of linear power supplies. But it's easier to get a very clean output from a switching supply than from a linear! Especially nowadays, when the switching frequency can be 100 times higher than audio frequencies, so switching noise is irrelevant. There is no good reason to use a linear supply in audio anymore. It's just marketing.

ZackHagenseker 12-19-2012 11:11 PM

The link I posted is not the exact switch I have. I believe that mine is more of an on/off switch. Sorry about the confusion. But I see that you're saying that won't work anyway. I think I'll just end up using a light switch and rout it into the side of the board.

I do have some knowledge about soldering and have done enough of it but I will keep the exposed terminals in mind. Maybe I'll build a protective box around it.

I also would prefer the outlet as I would like to also use it to power a light source to be mounted under the board. (my board is not like the one in the picture. It has slats instead of a solid piece of plywood so the light could come through. Just for the cool factor :thumbsup: )

ZackHagenseker 12-19-2012 11:16 PM

Also, I do not know how many watts/amps each requires, only that they run off a 9 volt power supply if that helps. And right now it will only be powering 3 devises, but the board is 2 feet by 1 foot so it needs to be able to power as many as about 15. (this of course would be off of multiple power supplies. each one powers 5 I believe?)

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