Question about clock outlets and/or recessed plugs

gregzoll

The battery back up comes from the battery that sits in the main panel. If it uses wireless technology, then the keypad would have a wallwart that would plug in nearby to power it, and the batteries would be placed in the base of it.

Security101

I hope(d) everyone understands I'm talking about splicing the low voltage side - not the 120volt side. Relocate the transformer to the receptacle, not the receptacle to the transformer...

Thanks for making me clarify...

Jim

Speedy Petey

What does the voltage have to do with it? That type of wire/cable cannot be concealed in the wall.




What do you mean "making" you?

Security101

What type of wire? I didn't specify any type of wire, just the awg - sorry you're still misunderstanding...




I appreciate, that you brought to my attention, that my clarity was lacking - and I thanked you...

Jim

gregzoll

Security101, the wire has to be rated for in wall use. You can not take just any wire and use it in any situation, it has to be rated for the situation. Cat-3, Cat-5, Cat-6 are rated for in wall use, and also all three have Plenum & non-plenum type cables, but the majority of the time, you will see Plenum rated as the only type sold, since it is the most widely purchased. As for lv cable for security systems, doorbells, etc, it also has to be rated for where you are going to use it, and majority of the time, it will either be #18 or #20 stranded.

Speedy Petey

No, no misunderstanding at all sir.

You are saying cut the wire off a wall wart, splice it and send it down the wall. This is not a viable, complaint, install.

gregzoll

The only way I can see it legally done Pete, is if the transformer has screws to allow wiring to be secured on terminals attached to said wall-wart, and that would be the only way it could be compliant.

Security101

Geeezz, I guess I should have written the instructions out in full, I was just throwing a suggestion out there - if the OP'er had asked how to do it I would have explained in great detail how after I determined what their system was...

It was after my post that the OP'er verified their alarm system model, which is a different bird than most standard main stream systems (transformer or AC adapter is actually complete with wire and 2.5mm DC power plug or connector. You may know that most other systems have a set of screws that you connect your seperate burg cable to and extend as needed.

I used 18AWG as an example (thinking again it was a mainstream system), but now that we know which system we're talking about, and we see that it's 12VDC 100mA max, the OP'er could probably use standard 22 to 20 awg burg wire with a CMR/CL3R label which is available widely online and in most big box stores - and is rated for riser, which should be just fine as long as their not installing it in air handling areas like ductwork/return air paths or a known Plenum area.

The wording I used for my first reply which was:
should have probably read:
Sorry...


Anyway, back to the OP, get yourself some 20 or 22 awg CMR/CL3R labeled 2 conductor wire online or from a local vendor/store, you'll also need an I believe - 2.5mm, right angle DC power plug (male end) and the mating female jack - both should be the "solder tab type".

Determine your run for the wire and pull your wire. At the control end install/solder the right angle end, and the jack end to the end by your transformer.

It would be recommended to make up the junction between the transformer wire and extension in a mounted low voltage box with a blank plate to protect the connection and any excess wire from damage or tampering.

That should get you code compliant wiring to the control, that will be safe, and durable.

Hope this helps clear it all up

Jim

gregzoll

Security101, as already stated, you can not extend the wiring in that way, because it is not code compliant.

Security101

Ok, what code? (please be specific)

Jim

gregzoll

You need to go look it up in the NEC.

Security101

I cant find it...

...please enlighten me

Jim