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Old 09-09-2013, 12:17 AM   #76
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I really appreciate your thoroughness.

You are right on on the control box model and the motor number. I'm finding numbers on the relay but I'm having to look through a 10X jeweler's loupe to see them. I've got my headlamp on right now looking at them.

Since it is about a 40 mile drive to Grainger, I'll call them first. Hope they have the parts in stock if not, we're pretty desperate for water and I'll probably shell out for a new control box.

I'll post early evening tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

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Old 09-09-2013, 02:33 AM   #77
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In the Franklin Electric Aim website I found the part number for both the capacitor and the relay. The numbers on my parts are the same as on the Franklin-Electric website but I cannot find the relay anywhere. It is part #155 031 102 and I've gone through the Grainger catalog, ebay, Pump warehouse, and done every kind of Google search for the part number and I can't find it. I was somewhere on page 51 of the AIM manual (or thereabouts) and saw something that said for 3HP motors or smaller to replace part #155 031 102 with #155 031 103. Still can't find the 103 either.

Someone on a different blog posted that the relays cost $45 when he used to be able to find them because his have been taken out by lightning. The same is probably true in this case but for $45 for the relay and $20-$30 for the capacitor I might as well buy a new control box for $100-$125. So if Grainger has my control box I think that's what I'm going end up doing.
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:01 AM   #78
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Even though it costs a bit more, I'd very likely opt for a whole new box too. That way you have all new parts, plus a few spare ones from the old box.

Best of luck,
Rob
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:25 PM   #79
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Spent two hours on the phone this morning going round and round with Grainger and they ended up wanting to sell me a control box for $1160, then went progressively down from there to a $300 box. I finally signed off with them.

Finally called a little in south Tacoma and found my control box for $135. This new model has the dual overload buttons. Came home, attached it and viola! WATER!!!

My neighbor, who lives 800 feet away from me was gone during the lightning storm and came home and found his control box lid blown off, the capacitor blown up, the wooden wall around the control box scorched all around, lightbulbs blown out in out in his studio and his house. He found a huge fir tree in his backyard that was lifted out of the ground, the well wiring raised the ground all the way from the house to the well and everything was fried. I couldn't believe my eyes! He's going to have to replace every component of his well (if the pump hasn't fried or fallen off down there).

I can't thank you enough for your help. You're a genius and I am so blown away by your generosity in helping others. If I'm ever in the Reno area, I'll try to get in touch with you via this website and take you and your family out to dinner at the place of your choosing. You saved me so much time, headache, and money. Thanks again.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:35 PM   #80
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Sounds like your neighbour took the direct hit.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:40 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yheitman View Post
Spent two hours on the phone this morning going round and round with Grainger and they ended up wanting to sell me a control box for $1160, then went progressively down from there to a $300 box. I finally signed off with them.

Finally called a little in south Tacoma and found my control box for $135. This new model has the dual overload buttons. Came home, attached it and viola! WATER!!!

My neighbor, who lives 800 feet away from me was gone during the lightning storm and came home and found his control box lid blown off, the capacitor blown up, the wooden wall around the control box scorched all around, lightbulbs blown out in out in his studio and his house. He found a huge fir tree in his backyard that was lifted out of the ground, the well wiring raised the ground all the way from the house to the well and everything was fried. I couldn't believe my eyes! He's going to have to replace every component of his well (if the pump hasn't fried or fallen off down there).

I can't thank you enough for your help. You're a genius and I am so blown away by your generosity in helping others. If I'm ever in the Reno area, I'll try to get in touch with you via this website and take you and your family out to dinner at the place of your choosing. You saved me so much time, headache, and money. Thanks again.
It's really nice to hear that your well is now working!

It's the best feeling ever to hear of a success........
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:02 PM   #82
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I am showing 200ohms across Y-B, Y-R, and R-B. Obviously not good. How do you take the top off the pump to test the wires to the pump. Or should I just call a well guy.
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Old 01-08-2014, 05:15 PM   #83
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I just went ahead and called the Well Dude. Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:54 AM   #84
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Well is 1 hp It runs then blows the capacitor 1/2 day it works replaced cap 2x now its tripping the breaker b-yel 4.5 ohms, blk-red 8ohms ,yel-red 7.4-7.5 readings are from the terminals on the franklin well box its just a terminal strip. There is no ground wire just 3 wires. Klixon overload 1/2hp rating but franklin box says 1hp how to test this it has 3 wires on it. Preasure switch has 144v on both leggs and L1 and L2 read 244v on franklin well box.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:08 AM   #85
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Hello, new poster.
I've no idea what is down my well motor wise but there is a Franklin 2801054915 controller up top. Lost our water pressure, no quantity issues. Well is 90 feet and when I tested the resistance I'm getting Y-B 5.4 ohms, Y-R 17.3 ohms and R-B 22 ohms. From what I read in here that should be okay. What doesn't seem right is the current readings. I'm showing anywhere from .15 to 1.3 on Red, and 20 on both Black and Yellow. I'm thinking maybe a locked rotor or something. No tripped breakers, pressure dropped below cutoff and thats where I found it. Any ideas or thoughts?
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:59 AM   #86
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The motor is most likely 1/2 HP and I'd bet it runs on 240 volts.

Since there's very little current on red, the problem is most likely either a bad start capacitor or a bad start relay. The motor is probably ok.

If the relay is blue, it's solid-state and there's no way to test it except under load with a known good motor (which you probably have) and a known good capacitor (which we don't know yet).

The capacitor can be tested using a meter that has a capacitor test function. Most basic meters cannot test capacitors this size though some can. The capacitor will be rated in mfd and voltage. mfd is what we're testing for.

While a meter that can actually test the capacitor is by far the best, a sort of basic test can be done using any meter set to read resistance. First, short the terminals with a screwdriver. You might get a nice 'SNAP' as it is discharged, maybe not.

Next, disconnect one or both leads. Now, with the meter set to fairly high resistance (200K or thereabouts) put the probes on the capacitor terminals. The reading should be low at first, then rise as the capacitor is charged. If it stays low or doesn't rise, the capacitor is very likely bad.

The replacement needs to have a mfd rating within 10% of the original, and the voltage rating needs to be the same or higher but not lower.

I'm heading to work now, I'll be back around 4:30PM and check up on this thread.

Rob

P.S. An AC capacitor like this one is not polarity sensitive; it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal.

Last edited by micromind; 07-15-2014 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Added P.S.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:59 PM   #87
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Many thanks for the quick reply Rob. You were bang on about the cap. My digital meter was used first to test this and while it would swing between 0 ohms and infinity, I thought that might be okay. Checking around our small island here, one of the plumbers had a few spare controllers and he used his analog to test the caps in those. Did just what you mentioned. When he tested mine, it just pegged and wouldn't move. I plugged one of his old ones in and tada, we got water. I'll replace the cap in mine and give back the loaner. So another happy ending. Reading the complete post here you have had a lot of happy endings. Well deserved!!

Cheers,
Ron
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:08 PM   #88
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Thanks, Ron!!

Few things are better than a success story. It makes the time that myself along with every other pro spends here worthwhile.
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Old 05-12-2016, 08:07 PM   #89
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Hello all. I have a problem with my well. Franklin Electric three wire 3/4 hp 240v. Very deep well, most likely 550+ ft. Fuses keep popping, a humming comes from the control box, new and old. The ohms are R-B=21.8, R-Y=19.9, and Y-B=4.1. Three to five seconds of buzz and pop goes the fuse. 20A Time Delay fuses. No ground wire but I did check the casing as a ground and all ohms came out infinate on the highest setting. Im at a loss here. Spent all day testing and then parts running because my symptoms matched somebody elses problem but the the cure did not. I really do not want to pull the pump because I would have to tear down the well house. Even pulling the well cap will be a chore due to very, very limited space inside the well house.
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Old 05-13-2016, 04:45 PM   #90
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Re: Pump Control test Franklin


The resistance readings are mostly ok, a bit high R-Y but not enough to worry about.

My main suspect here is either the start capacitor or the start relay. Normally, a second or two after power is applied, the relay will disengage the start winding R-Y and keep the run winding Y-B energized.

If the start winding doesn't disengage, the motor will come up to about 80% speed and draw a LOT of current (the two windings are fighting with each other). Easily enough to trip a breaker. The buzzing you hear is the huge current going through the control box and likely the relay trying to disengage but the contacts are stuck together.

Since you get water hammer, I suspect the relay more than the capacitor. If the capacitor is bad, the pump won't run at all.

I doubt if you'll need to pull the pump, it's very likely ok. If you do need to pull it, rather than tear down the well house, cut a 2' X 2' skylight in the roof directly above the well. It doesn't need to be exactly centered, you'll need about 6" of clearance from the center of the well. Use screws to fasten the skylight so it can be easily removed and replaced.

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