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Old 09-27-2008, 04:03 PM   #16
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Pump Control test Franklin


I am new to the format .
I would like to ask "micromind" a similar ?. I have a Gould 13GS10 1 hp, 3 wire pump not working and I followed your directions you gave to wkosbob. Disconnected the pump wires at the box next to the tank and going to the pump. Checking the ohms on the 10x scale I got:
Red to Black = 300 ohms
Red to Yellow = 1 ohm
Black to Yellow = 300 ohms
I hope you get this.


Last edited by plumcass; 09-27-2008 at 04:09 PM. Reason: rephrase
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:10 PM   #17
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Pump Control test Franklin


I'm going to post a diagram that I put together based on Robs (Micromind) analysis in the thread on the well pump motor. Graphic borrowed from manufacturers instructions (public no copyright). Text and configuration by yours truly.... I would wait for Rob to respond to this diagram for its accuracy.
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Pump Control test Franklin-franklin-pump-winding-test.jpg  

Last edited by Stubbie; 09-27-2008 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:55 PM   #18
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Pump Control test Franklin


I'll retry using your diagram.Thank you
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Old 09-28-2008, 10:23 AM   #19
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Pump Control test Franklin


The diagram above is exactly correct.

Use the X1 scale on the ohm meter. 300 ohms on the X10 scale is actually about 3000 ohms. This could be an open (burned) wire underwater. It could also be an open (burned) wire inside the motor. Either way, you'll need to pull the pump.

It's possible that the wire is bad between the control box and the well. Usually, the wires are spliced just under the cap on top of the well. if so, undo the splices and check ohms on the wires going down the well. If these read ok according to the diagram, then the pump is likely good.

Next, tie all 3 wires together at the control box, and using the X1 scale, you should read less than 1 ohm across any 2 wires out at the well.

Check ohms using the highest scale the meter has going from each wire to ground. It should read infinite on all wires.

Eventually, you'll be able to isolate the problem.

Rob
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:14 PM   #20
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Pump Control test Franklin


I will try testing the lines to the well and if needed the pump itself. I probably will get to it in the next couple of weeks. I'll let you know how I make out. Hopefully !
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:01 PM   #21
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Pump Control test Franklin


Hi - New User here! Sorry to hijack this excellent thread but it's right on topic for my question and starting a new one didn't seem necessary.

In the (really helpful) diagram it says that readings off of normal are suspect. Mine are very low:

Franklin 1HP 230V
Y-B 1.8 Ohm
Y-R 2.7 Ohm
(No ground faults)

As was noted (and marked on the control box) "normal" is around 4 and 12, respectively. But other posts I've seen just say they should be "a few ohms"

This pump/well has not been used for many years and I'm trying to see if it's worth reviving. (Prior owner said it was working last time he tried it) I have not reconnected the main power yet so my question is will it hurt anything to try applying power? I assume that if it's really shorted the CB will trip?

Thanks in advance

Ron
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:48 PM   #22
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Pump Control test Franklin


That resistance is pretty low for a 1 HP motor. Were the black/red/yellow wires disconnected when the readings were taken?

You could try turning it on, and see what happens. If the motor is shorted, it'll trip the breaker. I would not test this way if the breakers are FPE or Zinsco. These have a tendency not to trip, even on a short circuit.

Rob

P.S. According to the Franklin book, a 1 HP 3 wire submersible motor should read about 2.5 ohms across yellow to black, and around 10 ohms yellow to red.

Last edited by micromind; 02-04-2009 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Added P.S.
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Old 02-04-2009, 11:18 PM   #23
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Pump Control test Franklin


Thanks Rob:

Yes, all the wires were disconnected before testing.

I'll check the breaker brand before lighting things up and will report back.

With so much downtime on the pump I'm afraid the seals have failed. Unless I get a miracle flow when powering up, plan B will be to pull the whole thing out - I guess.

Great site!

Ron
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:25 PM   #24
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Pump Control test Franklin


Looks like I got lucky with all the info you already have. One question: Can I have a 1-HP control On a 3/4-HP motor? and does the overload sensor that was included on he old controler with a cap that had 3 wires connected to it has to be added to new controler with a cap with 2 wires and a 3 terminal relay.

Thanks
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Old 05-23-2009, 11:50 AM   #25
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Pump Control test Franklin


Hey Micromind, I have a 2HP Franklin controller, what should be the voltages across the three wires YELLOW&RED , YELLOW&BLACK, BLACK&RED.
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Old 05-23-2009, 01:01 PM   #26
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Pump Control test Franklin


Yellow is the common wire to both start and run windings. It's tied to L2 of the incoming power. Black goes to L1, and red also goes to L1, but there's a capacitor in series with it.

When the pump is running, there will be line voltage (presumably 240) across yellow and black. There will be a voltage of some sort across yellow and red, but it will vary with load on the motor.

Current is what matters here. The current on yellow should be 10 to 13. On black it should be 9 to 12. Red should be 2 to 3.

Rob
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Old 05-23-2009, 07:07 PM   #27
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Pump Control test Franklin


Hi Rob,

Would you tell me how I make sure that my controller is up to standard and running. It looks clean and I bought it new and it still looks good a clean. My pump is lately getting lazy and not enough pressure, it is 200 feet below and I hate to pull it out before I make sure that the controller is good. I have a 2HP Grundfos 1PH 230 3 wire pump is about 12 years old but was not used too much. Only for summer watering. I got a standard capcitor start capacitor run Franklin controller.

I also got all resistances, they are low and add up as well.

Thanks for your help.

Cyrus
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:41 PM   #28
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Pump Control test Franklin


I will finally replace the pump. Anyone know of equipment that I can rent designed to lift the old pump out other than brute strenght. I am going to replace the #10-3 twisted wire with jacked wire that is specifically designed for submersible pumps, anybody know where to buy this wire, I have searched locally and on the internet, can order it in 500ft rolls only need 250'.
Do any of the home improvement stores carry this type wire and what is the general trade name given to wire used in wet places?
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:08 PM   #29
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I used my truck with pulley system, you can also rent a small backhoe or excavator and pull it out. For wire look at this site. http://www.wwpp.com/products/wire/flatwire.htm
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:58 AM   #30
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Pump Control test Franklin


Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1234 View Post
Hi Rob,

Would you tell me how I make sure that my controller is up to standard and running. It looks clean and I bought it new and it still looks good a clean. My pump is lately getting lazy and not enough pressure, it is 200 feet below and I hate to pull it out before I make sure that the controller is good. I have a 2HP Grundfos 1PH 230 3 wire pump is about 12 years old but was not used too much. Only for summer watering. I got a standard capcitor start capacitor run Franklin controller.

I also got all resistances, they are low and add up as well.

Thanks for your help.

Cyrus
I have the same exact controller box and what happens to mine is that it shuts itself off and I have to hit the reset button the it rattles the controller box the shuts it self down then the reset doesnít work un till I let it rest for 1 hour then the same thing it is keeping about 40 lbs. of pressure some times it builds up to 60 lbs and shuts it self off normally. It is about 7 years old. thatís for any help.

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