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Old 02-07-2009, 03:50 PM   #16
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If amps are given, you use the corresponding HP in table 430.248 or whatever it is. or whatever table corresponding to the type motor

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Old 02-07-2009, 03:53 PM   #17
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430.6 (A) (1). The first part of this section does indeed state that table values shall be used instead of actual nameplate values, but the last part states that low speed/high torque motors may have higher nameplate amps, and nameplate shall be used.

I tend to forget that this is a DIY site, not many DIYers work with motors that are say, 705 RPM, or design D!

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Old 02-07-2009, 03:58 PM   #18
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It also says that if a motor is marked with amps it assumes it corresponds with that of the table. I'm not good at assumptions, I use the nameplate. Call me wrong, it's quite ok.
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Old 02-07-2009, 04:18 PM   #19
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My take on the assumed part is for sizing disconnects and starters.

For example, if we had an air compressor labeled as 5 HP 230 volts, but the motor nameplate listed the full-load amps as 12 (A lot more common than you'd think!), using table 430.248 we would assume the motor to be actually 2 HP. A size 0 starter will control a 2 HP single phase motor, where if we used the 5 HP rating we'd need a size 2. There's a substantial cost difference between a size 0 and a size 2.

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Old 02-07-2009, 05:23 PM   #20
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NEC 430.6 (A)(1) and A(2)

I believe wirenut is refering to exception 3 of 430.6(A)(1). However this exception applies to motor operated appliances. IMO this would not apply to a well pump motor. To help differeniate this is a good article to go by.

http://www.ul.com/regulators/ode/0303.pdf
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Old 02-07-2009, 05:34 PM   #21
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I am using a submersible well pump but I am not pumping from a true well. I have a creek that runs across my property. I have tapped into it with a 15 inch pipe which runs horizontally to a 24 inch vertical pipe about twelve feet deep I am pumping from. Thus the submersible pump will be in contact with the surface water from the creek.

I should have included that in my original post.
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Old 02-08-2009, 04:01 AM   #22
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I have another question about the 240V. I have been reading here, and I have seen several posts which say there is no nuetral for straight 240V. I thought I would be pulling 3 wires + a ground but it looks like I only need 2 wires + a ground. The dryer outlet had 3 + a ground which confused me.

Is the 2 + a ground correct. It would be nice to save that 270 feet of wire.

Thanks
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:42 AM   #23
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Unless the well pump has a remote control box with a start capacitor,then you need a 3wire+ground.
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:21 PM   #24
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You'll need 2 wires + ground from the panel to the pressure switch. Then two wires + ground from the pressure switch to the control box.

If the motor has 3 wires (Black, Yellow, Red), then you'll need 3 wires + ground from the control box to the motor. If the motor has 2 wires, then you'll need 2 wires from the control box to the motor. Most motors have a green ground wire attached.

A modern dryer plug is 3 wire + ground. It has two hots, and the neutral. The dryer motor and controls are 120 volt, the heating element is 240.

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Old 02-08-2009, 09:17 PM   #25
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Thanks for the reply..... That makes sense now... It is a two wire pump ...

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