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Power for new 20x20 detached garage, NJ.
I plan to add a 100A sub panel. The meter is on the other end of the house. So if I run the proper size cable through the basement about 60', I would then have to go underground about 30' to the garage.
I have a new 200A service in the house. I need a 50A 220V circuit for a Stick / Tig welder, some overhead lighting and some receptacles. I'll need probably 1 or 2 20A circuits available 1 at a time for another 115V Mig welder on a cart. Probably need another 220V circuit for a future air compressor upgrade. I expect may be 2 more 15 or 20A circuit with 2 or 3 max receptacles. The rest will be typical 110v: air compressor, drills, grinders, or mitre, circular saws etc.. Typically only one the welders or air compressor would be running in addition to one drill or grinder, etc. at a time. What size and type of wire / cable do I need to feed this. Do I use a panel with a 100A main, or do 2 100A breakers go in the main panel? I forget the terms for the panel with or without a main disconnect. |
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SInce you are from The Great Police State of New Jersey, here is a lot of useful information I have posted and continue to update. |
thanks, actually that post is my book mark for this site from a while ago.
How do I connect to the main service panel in the house, a double pole 100A breaker? |
Yes. Pipe it all the way to the panel. Where in NJ?
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Brick, Northern Ocean County.
What size and type pipe, 2 1/2" CPVC all the way, below 18" on the underground run? Thanks again for the help |
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Now a buddy tells me if I install electric in the garage it changes the degree of "usable space" on my property and my taxes will go up - a lot. :eek:
Would just running 2 12ga 20A circuits for a couple receptacles / lights off a tandem breaker at the house panel be different tax wise than the 100A sup-panel? I could still run the Mig welder and leave the Tig/Stick rig in the basement for now. I will be adding the electrical sub-code permit to the permit package, which is almost ready to submit (my electrical drawing still needs doing). Can someone define the typical differences? I know I get taxed on my rear deck as some kind of usable space, but not the same as finished rooms inside the house. |
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You are already being taxed for the garage. The only increase would be for the improvement. The garage is taxed at a different rate then the dwelling area. Hope this helps!!:thumbup: |
Very helpful. I'm back on track with adding the 100A sub-panel.
Thanks. I didn't clarify that I am in the drawings / permit stage for the garage itself. I won't have the funds for the electric just yet, so I planned to set the conduits in the slab on grade, include the electrical layout on my drawings and file for the elec sub-code with the building permit. I'm not sure if its just better to come up outside the slab into a pulling ell just above the sill plate. Is this a good plan or no: should I add the elec permit app as an update to the permit package instead. I want to get a temp CO or the CO so I can start using the structure. |
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If you have an existing padmount transformer on your property, or an overhead close by, you could consider tapping into that for a 2nd, completely seperate service.
Contact your local utility and find out what it would cost to run a completely seperate service for your detached garage. It would be a seperate meter, seperate bill, but that would at least allow you to install a 100A setup and not have any of it affect your regular house setup. |
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I only have object to speak up I understand that you want to put a 100 amp " service " to the garage But the key issue I don't know this may affect or not but how big is your house?
Let me explain just real short et sweet the reason why due some case with very small homes I know they allready have 200 amp service and I done the load caluations and if the load demand caluations is under 100 amp you are fine with that part but once you pass that part it may change the " game " somehow what., Electures will have infomation reguarding in your state so he may know little more details if he want to provide the answer with it. And the other thing I will throw this in the mix to reduce the headache go with 2 inch PVC conduit however please do get expanding sleeve so it will move up or down depending on the tempture when the frost hit so it will not rip it out off from the wall which I have see it from time to time. (The bare mimuium require I used is 1.25 inch but normally used either 1.5 or 2 inch PVC's ) Merci, Marc |
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Whats the difference between a main breaker vs a main lugs load center? I need a disconnect (main breaker) for the detached building, yes? |
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