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Old 06-09-2012, 02:14 PM   #31
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Pool Wiring Question


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Originally Posted by SeaDog1 View Post
I called my local building inspector awhile back and was asking him about what I was doing and he pretty much told me that he usually doesn't come out for private residential putting up an above ground
pool that as long as I was doing it like code says it would be good? So with that I am mainly concerned with safety. So beside the wire issue which I'm pretty certain the the green wire is Insulated, but if
not I can get a solid insulated ground wire and install it. The only other concern is if I move the 20 amp gfci to the sub panel main feed can I use a regular 30 amp breaker in the main house panel to feed the
sub panel?

I can't think of something more stupid. This is exactly the type of thing inspectors are for. I would DEMAND that he comes over and checks it out. Pools are nothing to mess around with...think about the liability.

Do you have a permit for the pool? Pool permit? Electrical permit? Have you looked into all the clearances.

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Old 06-09-2012, 02:22 PM   #32
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I can't think of something more stupid. This is exactly the type of thing inspectors are for. I would DEMAND that he comes over and checks it out. Pools are nothing to mess around with...think about the liability.

Do you have a permit for the pool? Pool permit? Electrical permit? Have you looked into all the clearances.
He didn't ask for any permits being a small town or whatever the reason I will ask that he come out and inspect it as soon as I get this put together...
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:51 PM   #33
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Pool Wiring Question


Just use an oversized conduit so it's easy to pull that UF through. Maybe 1-1/4 just to make it easy.
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:51 AM   #34
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In response to Seadog's various posts. A regular 30 amp breaker in the main house panel is perfect. Trench depth for pvc is 18" to the top of the pipe. The 12/3 stainless braided wire is only ok if the inspector says its ok. 12' from subpanel to pump moter means the whip will have to be secured at approved intervals or buried.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:45 AM   #35
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In response to Seadog's various posts. A regular 30 amp breaker in the main house panel is perfect. Trench depth for pvc is 18" to the top of the pipe. The 12/3 stainless braided wire is only ok if the inspector says its ok. 12' from subpanel to pump moter means the whip will have to be secured at approved intervals or buried.
Glennsparky thanks for your response, After all the great input from everyone I have decided to do everything in conduit and run a separate Insulated ground wire and move the GFCI to my panel and get my local Inspector over to go over everything. This forum has been a great help and I greatly appreciate everyone's input on my project!
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:07 AM   #36
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People probably sometimes get stray voltages on their pools even with following the rules.

As you are wiring this up I'd check for these several times.

There may be an order to assembling this whole circuit that would reveal these voltages sooner than later but I can't say what that would be.
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:15 AM   #37
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People probably sometimes get stray voltages on their pools even with following the rules.

As you are wiring this up I'd check for these several times.

There may be an order to assembling this whole circuit that would reveal these voltages sooner than later but I can't say what that would be.
The equipotential bonding grid required by code "masks" these stray voltages, I wouldn't waste my time checking for them, because in most cases you won't be able to eliminate them anyway...
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #38
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The equipotential bonding grid required by code "masks" these stray voltages, I wouldn't waste my time checking for them, because in most cases you won't be able to eliminate them anyway...
stickboy1375 one question on bonding, Do I need to bond the sub panel box being it's a metal box also or would that ground it being the sub panel it attached to a ground?


Doh....Found my answer in the link you gave me!....Thanks!

http://www.mikeholt.com/files/PDF/Pooldownload.pdf

Last edited by SeaDog1; 06-10-2012 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Found Answer
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:18 PM   #39
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in most cases you won't be able to eliminate them anyway...
Suppose they are over 2V?

This answer may not give pool owners that warm and fuzzy feeling
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:26 PM   #40
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Suppose they are over 2V?

This answer may not give pool owners that warm and fuzzy feeling
This is why a equipotential bonding grid is in place for... we are actually masking these voltages because we know they exist. Good luck getting a power company to remove 2 volts of voltage drop on the primary neutral.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #41
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Suppose they are over 2V?

This answer may not give pool owners that warm and fuzzy feeling
In a properly bonded pool area, there will be no significant potential differences between anything. Potential differences before the bonding grid is installed are irrelevant.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:41 PM   #42
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If you do get into measuring voltages you should probably use a shunt, see below

SVM-10 Stray Voltage Monitor
http://www.controlhouse.com/c/sites/...m-10.indd_.pdf
The SVM-10 tracks voltage values simultaneously on four isolated channels. Channel 4 is designed to emulate a cow contact point by including a 500 ohm shunt built into the unit. The unit will provide a resolution to 0.01 VAC on any input. Has the ability to monitor harmonics.

My guess for a human shunt would be 3k ohms but no less than 600 ohms.
With ground currents the voltages at noon are probably lower than at 7 PM.
The real question is "What are the voltages when there is a PoCo ground fault" but this is not easily done.
I asked an authority if there is active stray voltage cancellation along the same lines as active noise cancellation but it seems not, not yet.

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