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Pool Wiring Question

12K views 41 replies 9 participants last post by  Yoyizit 
#1 ·
I am running power out to a sub panel for a SWG and pump to a above ground pool. I talked to a electrician where I work and he explained how i needed to run
it. I have made a diagram how he said and was wondering if it looks like it is
right and will work safe. I plan to have it bonded but did not put it in the diagram. Not sure if just by looking at diagram that you can tell if it is right or
safe but would appreciate any input. Thanks!!
 

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#3 ·
Hi Seadog1, the diagram looks fine. For code, you do need a GFCI receptacle between 10 and 20 feet of the water's edge. To give you any real feedback we'd need a lot more information. Lengths of all runs. Wire size, wire type and raceway type. Volts and amps of all loads. Depth of trench, if digging. Where the wire is being run. Is there an underwater light? Are you planning any future loads for that subpanel? Hint, Switch the GFCI breaker to the sub panel.
 
#8 ·
Glennsparky thanks for your response, If I were to put a regular 30 amp breaker in place of the 20 amp GFI and move it into the main feeder of the sub panel would that work? Also I'm using 10/4 UF wire
and its about an 80' run and will be buried 24" no conduit and using all water tight connections into the boxes. The wire out of the sub panel to the pump motor and to the SWG is a 12/3 stainless braided wire like we use on a offshore tug. The pump motor says MaxAmps 7.8-7.4/14.8 and the SWG says 220-250VAC,1A,50/60HZ if that makes sense? I have no underwater light.
 
#6 ·
Pools can be very tricky code wise and I highly suggest that you go over every aspect of the pool wiring and anything associated with the pool.

There are a couple things I would like to point out that you need to do in this specific situation.

1) The wiring to the pool pump motor must be in conduit. No UF cable.
2) The wiring to the pool pump motor must include an insulated ground no smaller than 12AWG.
 
#24 · (Edited)
It will be so much esier to use conduit and pull individual THWN wires in the proper color and size. Even oversize it a little for future expansion. Much easier to pull the wire out and replace if something happens to it too. That uf stuff is a pita to pull out and replace.
 
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#26 ·
I can't tell for sure but it does not look like that wire has a separately insulated ground so unfourtunately it can't be used. Even if it did I am almost sure code does not allow that wire type.
 
#27 ·
there are 4 wires each wrapped in a wire color plastic coating then all of those are wrapped in the gray outside plastic coating. I'm at work right now but my wife is going to take some pictures of the wire and send them to me and I will post them to give a better idea on what the wire is. and Thanks for your input on this!
 
#30 ·
I called my local building inspector awhile back and was asking him about what I was doing and he pretty much told me that he usually doesn't come out for private residential putting up an above ground
pool that as long as I was doing it like code says it would be good? So with that I am mainly concerned with safety. So beside the wire issue which I'm pretty certain the the green wire is Insulated, but if
not I can get a solid insulated ground wire and install it. The only other concern is if I move the 20 amp gfci to the sub panel main feed can I use a regular 30 amp breaker in the main house panel to feed the
sub panel?
 
#31 ·
:eek:
I can't think of something more stupid. This is exactly the type of thing inspectors are for. I would DEMAND that he comes over and checks it out. Pools are nothing to mess around with...think about the liability.

Do you have a permit for the pool? Pool permit? Electrical permit? Have you looked into all the clearances.
 
#34 ·
In response to Seadog's various posts. A regular 30 amp breaker in the main house panel is perfect. Trench depth for pvc is 18" to the top of the pipe. The 12/3 stainless braided wire is only ok if the inspector says its ok. 12' from subpanel to pump moter means the whip will have to be secured at approved intervals or buried.
 
#35 ·
Glennsparky thanks for your response, After all the great input from everyone I have decided to do everything in conduit and run a separate Insulated ground wire and move the GFCI to my panel and get my local Inspector over to go over everything. This forum has been a great help and I greatly appreciate everyone's input on my project!
 
#36 ·
People probably sometimes get stray voltages on their pools even with following the rules.

As you are wiring this up I'd check for these several times.

There may be an order to assembling this whole circuit that would reveal these voltages sooner than later but I can't say what that would be.
 
#42 ·
If you do get into measuring voltages you should probably use a shunt, see below

SVM-10 Stray Voltage Monitor
http://www.controlhouse.com/c/sites/default/files/svm-10.indd_.pdf
The SVM-10 tracks voltage values simultaneously on four isolated channels. Channel 4 is designed to emulate a cow contact point by including a 500 ohm shunt built into the unit. The unit will provide a resolution to 0.01 VAC on any input. Has the ability to monitor harmonics.

My guess for a human shunt would be 3k ohms but no less than 600 ohms.
With ground currents the voltages at noon are probably lower than at 7 PM.
The real question is "What are the voltages when there is a PoCo ground fault" but this is not easily done.
I asked an authority if there is active stray voltage cancellation along the same lines as active noise cancellation but it seems not, not yet.
 
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