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Old 07-13-2008, 01:42 AM   #16
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Quote:
The voltage doesn't matter and the internal #8 bond is only required if nonmetallic pipe is used from the forming shell to the deck box.
Yes... I forgot about low voltage so changed drawing to reflect low and line voltage lights.

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Old 07-13-2008, 07:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Speedy Petey View Post
If there is no lug INSIDE the niche then no bond should be necessary.
Speedy,

We installed the conduit and light today. When looking in the forming shell, there is only a tiny SS screw in the top of it. There is no way to properly secure the #8 stranded wire to it without modifications. For now it is just hanging there. Thoughts?
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:17 PM   #18
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Well, I guess it would not meet the letter of the code, but if there is no lug then there is no place to bond to.

Let me do some looking around.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:02 PM   #19
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Nod... can you give us the manufacturers name of the wet niche assembly?
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:08 PM   #20
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Nod... can you give us the manufacturers name of the wet niche assembly?

It is a Hayward Duraniche. I looked at it online, and it says it should be there. Maybe I just missed it. I was underwater and half blind , holding my breath, so I will look again :-)

My plan was to drain the pool to that point and connect it and use the potting compound.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:21 PM   #21
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It is a Hayward Duraniche. I looked at it online, and it says it should be there. Maybe I just missed it. I was underwater and half blind , holding my breath, so I will look again :-)

My plan was to drain the pool to that point and connect it and use the potting compound.

the lugs are all the way in the back and are not that big, so i'm sure its there and you just didnt see it.
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:00 PM   #22
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Yup, the lug has got to be there. If not the whole unit would not be code legal.

Sometimes the answer is so obvious you (meaning "I") don't see it.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:04 PM   #23
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Speedy,

A couple more questions if you don't mind. I purchased the THHN/TWHN wire, but only black. I also purchased different colored electrical tape to mark the wire at each end? Is this code-worthy or do I have to have seperate color wires? Also, in my conduit, I had to shorten two 90 degree angles to make it connect to fit correctly with the junction box, will this be ok?

Thanks!
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Nod View Post
Speedy,

A couple more questions if you don't mind. I purchased the THHN/TWHN wire, but only black. I also purchased different colored electrical tape to mark the wire at each end? Is this code-worthy or do I have to have seperate color wires? Also, in my conduit, I had to shorten two 90 degree angles to make it connect to fit correctly with the junction box, will this be ok?

Thanks!
You have to buy green and white...
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:20 AM   #25
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You have to buy green and white...
Wow - that seems a bit unfair the DIY folks with the price of copper. It doesn't seem like a safety issue. I have done some research on it and see some localities let this one slide if taped up. I guess I can alway see.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:36 AM   #26
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Tape in a flooded niche will come off. Green insulated is the code requirement. Reason is they do not want someone (homeowner) coming behind you someday seeing a black wire and connect it to a hot wire thinking you are in error.....I know who would ever do that.....

Here is the bonding lug location.....btw those are very good wet niches. See that rather obscure connection to the internal lug in the back of the niche coming from the face ring trim mounting/locking screw?
Attached Thumbnails
Pool Pump & Light Wiring-hayward-duraniche-pvc.jpg  

Last edited by Stubbie; 07-15-2008 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 07-15-2008, 02:24 PM   #27
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Tape in a flooded niche will come off. Green insulated is the code requirement. Reason is they do not want someone (homeowner) coming behind you someday seeing a black wire and connect it to a hot wire thinking you are in error.....I know who would ever do that.....
Do I need the white (neutral wire as well?) or is the ground/green only code?

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Here is the bonding lug location.....btw those are very good wet niches. See that rather obscure connection to the internal lug in the back of the niche coming from the face ring trim mounting/locking screw?
Now in the niche I have, the access opening is in the top. I don't recall seeing a bonding lug in the back but will doublecheck!

Thanks for the help Stubbie
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:46 PM   #28
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Do I need the white (neutral wire as well?) or is the
ground/green only code?
You should have white, sorry but that is the code on smaller insulated awg wires.



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Now in the niche I have, the access opening is in the top. I don't recall seeing a bonding lug in the back but will doublecheck!
I only could find this image of duralite forming shell,... I'm not familiar with a 'top' access??
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:49 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Nod View Post
Do I need the white (neutral wire as well?) or is the ground/green only code?
You need to bring a #12 AWG white, green, and any other color other than green and white from your pool light approved junction box to the light, along with a #8, this is a bonding jumper so it can be black if you wish.

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