DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (
-   Electrical (
-   -   Pool Motor Wiring Assistance (

tazmajazz 05-08-2008 08:02 PM

Pool Motor Wiring Assistance
Hello! I hopefully someone here will be able to answer a couple questions for me.

Basically I have two devices that need to connect to AC electricty and need to be wired directly. I have only one AC line, how can I attach both devices safely?

I am replacing the motor to my swimming pool's pump. The wires from the junction box attached to the old motor at three separate screws in the back of the motor underneath the casing. Then a salt-water chlorinator had three wires attached to posts that were part of the same screws that the other wires were attached to (also underneath the casing).

My question is this: the oringinal motor had a separate hole where the second set of wires were pulled through to attach to the posts, but the new motor does not have that separate opening. Since they seemed like they were wired to the same screws/posts, can I just twist each pair of the 6 wires together outside of the motor and then feed them through the one opening and onto the screws/posts?

Is there is some sort of cord I can buy that is made to accomplish this same goal by splitting the AC line? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

thanks in advance!

taz :-)

mr500 05-08-2008 08:07 PM

Mount up a junction box. One wire in, 2 leave out to the 2 motors. Should work. :whistling2:

wire_twister 05-08-2008 08:53 PM

junction box is the way to go. The switches(if there are any) need to be interlocked so the chlorinator can not run without the pump motor running. This is why the wires for the chlorinator ran thru the motor. To interlock the switches feed line power to the switch for the pump motor, from the load side of this switch feed the pump motor and the line side of a switch for the chlorinator, finally feed the chlorinator from the load side of the second switch. This will allow you to run the pump without the chlorinator, but not the other way around.

tazmajazz 05-08-2008 09:50 PM

thanks for the quick replies! there is currently a junction box there that sits on top of two poles that come out of the ground. However, there is just one long metal-wound tubing that emerges from the box and attaches to the pool motor. Should I replace the junction box? It is pretty old and rusted as it is so it might need to be replaced anyhow. would that be very difficult? I'm comfortable working with wires, I I just dont have much experience in this particular area.

thanks again for the advice!

taz :-)

wire_twister 05-09-2008 06:24 AM

If you dont like the way it looks then by all means replace it. I should also ask if the pump and light wires are hooked to a GFCI breaker? Do your self a favor and look at the swimming pool section in the NEC, you only get one chance to do this right.

tazmajazz 05-09-2008 08:11 AM

I agree, I think the best call is to replace the junction box. The juncion box that powers the pump etc is connected to a breaker box right next to them.
I took the cover panel off of the junction box and it has two red wires that are connected to nothing, and then it has: one green, two blacks, and one red that are twisted with wires that run to the pump. Also, I cant figure out how the junction box is mounted to these two poles it sits on, it looks like it may be permanent, have you ever seen a configuration like this?

thanks again for all the valuable advice! :-)


wire_twister 05-09-2008 12:18 PM

The junction box is most likely threaded on to the pipes coming out of the ground, if it has any age on it at all you will not be able to get it apart. What is the pipe made out of metal or plastic? Also the direction I gave you earlier was assuming the pump motor and chlorinator were both 230 volt equipment, you need to check the name plate on both of them to be sure. Most times they can be hooked up either way you need to be sure they are right before turning on the power.

tazmajazz 05-09-2008 02:53 PM

you are exactly correct, the junction box is somehow threaded onto the two poles but since there are two poles, I dont see how the junction box could have screwed onto them. I have spent the last 1.5 hours trying to remove the old junction box. Do you have any suggestion on how to remove it? I cant see how it was originally attached. I'm resorting to a dremel to try and cut the stupid thing off!

the motor is 230v, and I imagine the chlorinator is too since it was just connected to the same screws in the motor that the AC wiring was connected to.

I would seriously appreciate some advice on how to get the junction box off these poles!

thanks again!

taz :-)

tazmajazz 05-09-2008 02:53 PM

oh and the pipes are metal as well as the junction box itself. thanks!

micromind 05-09-2008 08:15 PM

Be careful here, if the pump motor is connected 230 volt, and it's dual voltage (115/230), there is a way to connect a 115 volt chlorinator pump to it without using the building neutral.

Were the chlorinator pump wires connected to the exact same terminals as the incoming pump power? Or was one of them connected to a different terminal? (Using a total of 3 terminals).

If the old pump was single voltage (230 only), then the chlorinator is also 230 volt.


wire_twister 05-09-2008 10:38 PM

The pipes were screwed into the j-box then put into the ground. Likely one pipe is carying the wires and the other is just there for support. The last one I did I drove a length of uni-strut in the ground near the pipe carying the wire, screwed the j-box on the pipe then bolted it to the strut. As far as getting it apart use a hack saw to cut the pipes, use a threadless connector to connect a new j-box. Be sure to de burr the pipe before pulling new wire in it to avoid cutting into the jacket. You might be able to cut the pipe that has no wire in it then un screw it off of the other pipe, most times they are stuck beyond any means of removal.

tazmajazz 05-10-2008 10:42 AM

whew! I finally (after a lot of sweat and some bloody knuckles) have removed the old j-box. I've purchased a new box and all of the connectors etc. Now the last (hopefully) dilema I have is which color wires are hot, neutral and ground. There are two blacks, two reds, and one green coming from the pipe. Before, the two blacks and the green were connected to the motor leaving two reds that were just tied off connected to nothing.

I figure i could tell which wires are hot and neutral by using a voltmeter and testing each color against the green wire. But the motor doesnt really have any schematics on where to connect the wires other than L1 and L2. actually the chlorinator doesnt really have any designation on it's wires either. The chlorinator has one green, one black, and one red. From my research it seems that the black or the red could either be the hot line.

Any suggestions on how to wire this?

Also, to wire it, can I just take the hot lead from the poles and use a twist connector to connect it to the each hot lead from the chlorinator? and likewise with the ground and neutral?

alsmost done! this forum is awesome, thanks!

taz :-)

tazmajazz 05-10-2008 05:40 PM

after talking to a friend of mine, he said that since the motor is 230v, there would be no neutral wire at all. does this sound correct?

Also, I double checked and the chlorinator says that it runs off 240v. So....should I be able to take either one of the blacks coming from the pole and connect it with a twist connector to either of the non-ground leads from the motor, AND either of the non-ground leads of the chlorinator? and the same for the other 'live' wire and the ground?

If I understand correctly, when wiring 230/240v equipment, instead of a ground, a neutral, and a live wire, there are just two live wires and a ground, meaning that it doesnt really matter which live wire connects to which terminal. correct?

thanks again for all the info!


micromind 05-10-2008 07:13 PM

You're certainly on the right track! A 220 (or 230 or 240, it's all the same) circuit is simply 2 hots from 2 different legs of a service. There isn't any neutral involved in this case.

In your box, you'll have 2 splices each involving 3 wires. Each splice will contain one of the incoming black wires, one wire to the pump, and one wire to the chlorinator. Wirenuts are perfectly acceptable here, and in fact, are the way almost all of us would do it. The grounds will splice the same way, but they'll be green or bare wire, and you'll have 4 wires in this splice. The incoming green, one to the pump, one to the chlorinator, and a short pigtail that lands under the green screw in the back of the box.


wire_twister 05-10-2008 07:14 PM

you and your friend are correct, you have 2 hot wires L-1 and L-2 and a ground wire, green. as for the other two you have ??? I suggest you hook your volt meter to the wires that were hooked on the motor, and energize the line to get a voltage reading. You need to make sure there is no way that the chlorinator can come on without the pump running, that is why it was wired thru the motor before. The hot wires should hook to terminals L-1 and L-2 in the motor, and then go from there to the chlorinator, or you can join them coming off the switch for the pump and run them to both units. Dont forget to prime the pump before starting it.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:44 PM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1