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Old 01-04-2011, 09:46 AM   #16
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Point-of-use shower head heater power use


1) The manufacturer's installation instructions require a dedicated 30A 120V circuit. If you power this device from a 20A circuit, you are violating the minimum standards imposed by the manufacturer.

2) The stated appliance draw is 23.5A, but the instructions illustrate a 20A plug - AFAIK, that alone tells you this device cannot obtain a US listing (such as a UL Listing), and that it has not been tested for safety to a US listing.

3) If you want to use a GFCI, you would need one that is listed for the specified load.

4) The manufacturer prohibits the use of extension cords.

5) If the device fails due to an incorrect install I'm sure it will be a source of great comfort to the surviving relatives, or the executor of the estate if none, that such devices are used in "Central and South America with no GFCI protection", and that when they are "They usually don't kill people."

Perhaps "UD Listed" (Usually Doesn't Kill People) could be a new listing category, the purchase of products listed to the standard a sort of a "short form" single item IQ test, and return of the warranty registration card an automatic entry into the alternating current lottery for a Darwin Award.

_____________

What this comes down to is that you are looking for "permission" to install an apparently unlisted electrical device inside a shower stall in a manner explicitly prohibited by the manufacturer.

This being the "internets", you will find people willing to give it to you - and likely to rent lawnchairs and sell popcorn while they watch the results.

That does not change the fact that it a dangerous - and possibly very dangerous - thing to do, given that you are apparently determined to violate even the minimum manufacturer's requirements for safe installation.

So just for the record: IMO it's a stupid thing to do, and only an idiot would do it.

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Last edited by Michael Thomas; 01-04-2011 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freshbrood View Post
And as far as the bank knows, the thing was in the house before I ever moved in.
That is simply not true. You are not talking about an installed appliance, like a dishwasher or water heater. That is a portable appliance which would be inventoried as your property. If, god forbid, a fire starts, the fire marshall will be able to determine exactly what caused it. If you can't afford an electrician or plumber or fix the busted water heater now, you're certainly not going to be able afford a lawyer good enough to hold off the bank if they chose to hold you responsible for damages (especially since you've already used a public forum to publicize your intentions to use an unrated device in a non-code compliant method in the bank's property).
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:53 AM   #18
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You guys have clearly not travelled much south of the border, or know much about Miami landlords. But anyways, thanks for the input. I'm still not sure where it says it draws more than 23.5 amps max. I only intend to use the lower setting regardless.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:01 AM   #19
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....I'm still not sure where it says it draws more than 23.5 amps max. I only intend to use the lower setting regardless.
The amperage is listed on "Technical specifications" section of the web page referenced in post #1.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:02 AM   #20
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Freshbrood: Please remember this is a public forum and you'll get comments from .....well.... anyone who desires to comment, good or bad. Our regular member's main concern is always safety first, so expect some feedback that may not be exactly what you want to hear. But please stay safe in this project, however you end up doing it.

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Old 01-04-2011, 10:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
What this comes down to is that you are looking for "permission" to install an apparently unlisted electrical device inside a shower stall in a manner explicitly prohibited by the manufacturerSo just for the record: IMO it's a stupid thing to do, and only an idiot would do it.
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Freshbrood: Please remember this is a public forum and you'll get comments from .....well.... anyone who desires to comment, good or bad.
Personally, when i see threads like this I usually think that the OP already knows it's a bad idea, and are actually hoping to get talked out of doing something stupid, otherwise why bother to post at all?

Good luck Freshbrood, I realize it's easy to make bad choices when times are tough ( the whole deperate times / desperate measures thing) but the risk here may not be worth the reward. If it were me I think i'd be more inclined to use one of those $20 solar shower bags or look for a health club i could join at a student rate where I could take hot showers before going this route.
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:31 PM   #22
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If you can't afford an electrician or plumber or fix the busted water heater now...
On that note, you can probably fix the water heater for the same or lower cost than installing the electric showerhead. Water heaters are not complicated, and parts for them are usually cheap. Worst case, you can pick up a used heater off craigslist.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:55 PM   #23
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The idea of an electric shower head scares me. That's what water heaters are for.

I wonder if this device is an addon for this:

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Old 01-04-2011, 02:15 PM   #24
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Just looking at the PDF for that "appliance" gives me the shivers. One end in a wall, the other end in a shower? No thanks! OP: Do yourself a favor, find out how to fix the root problem w/your hot water and do that!
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:31 PM   #25
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There is a reason they call these devices "Suicide Showers." It is suicidal to use it, because you always will get shocked. If it was attached to a GCFI, the GCFI would trip everytime water flowed.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:37 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freshbrood View Post
Thank you! Finally a direct answer. Exactly what I suspected, but just wanted to hear from someone in the know. Although they say not to use with extension cords, I'm considering using a high-quality GFCI short extension cord as an added measure- then there are 2 GFCI switches for saftey, in case one fails. What do you think? A grounded GFCI extension more safe/less safe? And of course, I will only use the low setting.
Finally a direct answer ????
You've had multiple direct answers
This is just the one you wanted to hear
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #27
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Enjoy the rent free living as long as it lasts. (If you send rent to anyone they are responsible for making repairs.)

While 12 gauge wire single conductors in free air may carry 25 amps, 12 gauge Romex cable in the wall is rated for 20 amps max (16 amps max of wired-in continuous rated appliances) and are to be breakered at no more than 20 amps.

Are you sure you can't put a small (10 gallon or so) electric (tank type) water heater down in the basement, and de-install and take it with you when you move out? If you can run the cold water through many feet of pipe or hose strung along the walls and ceiling and then into the water heater, then the water will be preheated and it will take less electricity and time to heat up the next tankful.
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:07 PM   #28
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I was following thru on this one and I am not too thrilled what is going on with this type of electrique heater shower head type and I did review a little and IMO it will NOT pass the USA side at all due few items will not meet the UL code as Michael Thomas point out on that.

I have dealt quite few European verison they are very strict on this matter and all the European verison I ran into are hard wired and it must be on RCD breaker no extempts.

To OP.,

I know you allready got the message from few members about the safety issue so you will have to understand this part we do in a safe manner and far this fourm will NOT give out any bad advise at all.

Merci.
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:43 PM   #29
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This has gone on long enough
Its not rated for use in the US

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