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Please Help! 3 way switches controling 2 light fxtures.

14K views 52 replies 11 participants last post by  al_smelter 
#1 · (Edited)
I have been doing most of remodeling myself and was very excited after my popcorn ceiling over the stairway was scraped and the ceiling was painted waiting for my 2 new track light fixtures to replace old rusty ceiling fixtures.
I had help of a friend while taking down the popcorn and he removed one of the light fixtures in the hallway, so now I don't know where and how to connect my new track light.

Here is what I did so far:
I had to move downstairs switch for about 1 foot to the right, I cut the drywall and examined the box, cables and wiring, and how were they connected.
There were 2 cables coming into this switch box: 12/3 and 12/2. I sketched the diagram how was everything connected, ran to Lowes and bought few feet of each 14/3 and 14/2 to make extension (was told by employee it was OK to use 14 gauge with 12)so I can connect the ends to the existing ones and make new light switch 1 foot to the right.
However, I am worried about mixing 12 and 14 gauge wires, but they told me that should not be a problem, so I installed new plastic box and connected all the wires to brand new 3 way switch downstairs.
This circuit that my 3 way switches are on controls:
downstairs 3 way switch, downstairs 1 light fixture in the kitchen, 1 receptacle in the kitchen, one ceiling fan in the kitchen, entry hall light fixture, downstairs powder room receptacle and vanity light - and ends with two ceiling light fixtures in upstairs hallway.

Anyway, I installed my 2 new track lights, and to my disappointment, only one track light lighted up. The upstairs light switch works fine too.
The working track light was easy to wire, only one cable coming into box, so I just connected black to black, white to white and cooper to green and it works.
The other track light has so many wires coming out of the ceiling box, I am sure I made the wrong connection.
There are two 3 wire NM cables plus one 2 wire NM cable coming out of it and I am totally confused. What I see coming out of the box is 2 reds twisted together, two whites, twisted together, two blacks twisted together, a black and white twisted together and cooper wires twisted together.
I studied all the info on internet, but I never saw 3 NM cables coming out from 1 fixture box in the ceiling anywhere.
Today I opened the upstairs light switch box and noticed that the 3 way light switch box has only one 14/3 NM cable connected to the switch. Not the 12/3 as I would have expected, like downstairs.

I admit this may be more for me to deal with than I expected, but I am really trying to do everything by myself as I can't afford electrician right now. His estimate was $1500 for this work plus moving another switch in the living room.
I have been laid of since January, so I am on a tight budget still receiving Government checks.

Can anyone help me and advise how to connect properly my track light, please?
Also, should I go and purchase 12/2 and 12/3 cables for my extension for downstairs light switch and redo the wiring? I still did not repair the dry wall downstairs, so it's less of a hassle to do it now if I have to.

I live in the townhome built in 1985, my circuit breaker says 20 on the switch and each 42" track fixture takes 3 GU10 50 bulbs.

Thanks for all your help in advance! It is greatly appreciated!:cry:
 
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#2 ·
One more time the advice from the big box proves to be wrong. If the circuit is 20 amps wired with #12 wire there should be no #14 in the circuit.

Did you make the extension splice in an approved and accessible junction box or is it buried in the wall? If it is buried it again would be incorrect.
 
#4 ·
Yes, I purchased new junction box and made splice correctly. But yes, I was still worried.
Upstairs light switch is wired with 14 wire, so even professional messed up. I live in the house 5 years now, so I don't know who did wiring originally and if anything was changed before I moved in.
 
#5 ·
If you can verify that the breaker size is 15 amps all is good. If not it should be changed to protect the smallest wiring in the circuit which is #14.
 
#6 ·
was told by employee it was OK to use 14 gauge with 12)
I stopped reading right there.

Homeowners shouldn't do electrical work. They suck at it and someone, someday, is going to have to fix it.

Do it right or don't do it at all. Being broke isn't a good excuse. You spent money on the cosmetics and skimped on the important part.:jester:
 
#41 ·
Issue of homeowners doing Electrical work!


I respectfully disagree with you on this subject. This is a very broad statement. "Homeowners shouldn't do electrical work". It all depends on the particular situation and the amount of basic knowledge the homeowner has. The trick is to know when to stop and call in a professional. You're right, though on the fact that lack of money shouldn't be a motive to proceed blindly into dangerous work that could jeopardize a family's safety. One thing is certain, however. The employees at the Home Centers (I'm guilty of making a general statement, myself.) should not be relied upon exclusively (without checking other sources) on advice that is beyond the scope of knowledge of the customer!(No matter what):yes::no::drink:Don't Drink and Drive!!!
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thank you all. I will go tomorrow and purchase 12 gauge 3 and 2 wire cables and redo it all over again and perhaps change the breaker with 15amps one, since upstairs switch has 14/3 cable entering the box which is obviously wrong done years ago and I believe it would be costly to change complete wiring on this circuit.

To 220/221, my "cosmetics" -the track lights cost only $67 each, and yes, I am a woman, and yes I work hard, and yes, I have college degree and yes, I don't think that simple electric should be charged $1500 for few hours of work - It can't be rocket science, and yes I know little about home building as I worked for the builder last 5 years, and yes I have been unfortunate enough to get laid off when the whole industry tanked last year, and yes, I decided to spend my free time being productive and do the best I can, and yes I didn't like tacky light fixtures previously installed.

And yes, I think you are being rude. First you don't even take the time to read the whole post , but find it necessary to tell me that I suck for trying to save by doing things myself?

I will try to figure connecting other track light to correct wires myself, but if I can't I will call electrician when I can..cause yes again, I can't afford one at those prices right now. I was just hoping someone could help. I did not expect such an arrogant response.

However, it is comforting that few (Wildie, Jim Port) understand that not everyone is an expert in everything! My thanks to those who sincerely tried to help....
 
#9 ·
I did not expect such an arrogant response.
Now you know better sweetheart :thumbup:



I am the schmuck that follows behind people like you and fix their messes. I have done it for a long, long time now and have developed an attitude about homeowners and electrical work.

I don't care about your gender or education, IMO you shouldn't be doing electrical work. A smart person knows their limitations.



My thanks to those who sincerely tried to help....
Hey, I tried to help. It just wasn't the answer you wanted to hear.
 
#10 ·
I am the schmuck that follows behind people like you and fix their messes. I have done it for a long, long time now and have developed an attitude about homeowners and electrical work.
LOL, an "old schmuck"? I like you better already. :)

Well, that's one of the reasons I don't want someone with "know it all attitude" to do for me something I can do myself when I put my mind into it, and than charge me too much. I wasn't born yesterday either and I still can't resist the challenges, regardless of the cost.

I installed the new ceiling fan in my bedroom the other day for the first time in my life, so why I couldn't do simple wiring too? The fan is not wobbling and it's beautiful! $29 at Lowes, ceiling mounted, simple, plain, white...Got estimate from local Light fixture Boutique earlier, similar fan + install $600 - $700.
I read on line about the couple who hired an electrician who installed a ceiling fan "according to all codes" and the fan was wobbling, cost them $300 installation and they are very unhappy.

Yes I spent few days reading on "how to" do it and than it took me the whole day with instructions in my other hand, but I did it and it gave me great sense of acomplishment. Priceless!

By the way, I got my 12/3 and 12/2 Romex cables today at Home Depot and will do it right, because I can...:)

I told the guy at HD about my problem and all the twisted wires hanging out of the box and my second fixture not wrking....You know what he said? My track light didn't light up because of the black and white twisted together and that's where my problem was. Funny that none of the experts cought that in my post... but than again, not everyone read it all the way. :wink:
 
#12 ·
I tried many combos: fixture white to 2 twisted whites + fixture black to two twisted blacks,
fixture white to 2 twisted whites + fixture black to twisted white and lack, (thought maybe that's how they marked white- hot back in 1985)
than fixture white to UNtwisted black/white and black to UNtwisted black...always mostly likely creating a short. I didnt know I can splice 4 whites together and 4 lacks together, but that's the only combo left to try and I bet he was right.

I have to untwist the black/white, splice all whites together and all blacks together and it should work, unless there is a problem with fixture iself.
If this doesn't work, I will bring the old fixture and try so this way I will know.
:cool:
 
#13 · (Edited)
LOL, an "old schmuck"? I like you better already. :)
Chicks dig me.

Well, that's one of the reasons I don't want someone with "know it all attitude" to do for me something I can do myself when I put my mind into it
I get it. You are woman. I hear you roar.


Funny that none of the experts cought that in my post... but than again, not everyone read it all the way

You're not done yet Missy.
 
#21 ·
Thanks Stubbie, I am confident we'll figure this out. I am sure I have the help of the best from the best!:)

I may even draw and than scan and post what I have..not sure if I explained everything correctly, plus English is my second language. So far.. everything is cool..
 
#17 ·
I have to untwist the black/white, splice all whites together and all blacks together and it should work, unless there is a problem with fixture iself.
If this doesn't work, I will bring the old fixture and try so this way I will know.
If you do this, you will most likely pop the breaker.

Can you describe which wires from which cable are twisted together at the light, and how the wires are connected/twisted at the downstairs switch. That would be a good start to getting some help.
 
#18 ·
I remember my Dad explaining 3 way switching to me! I must have been 7 or 8 at the time.
He said just think of it as being the same as a model train on a track!
There is a single track until it comes to a switch. Then there are a pair of parallel tracks that return back to the single track at the next switch.
The train can travel round and round as long as both switches are positioned correctly. However, if either switch is opened, the train must stop.
Electrons in the circuit must behave in much the same way!
Whenever, I'm trying to sort out 3 way switch problems, I think of a model train travelling along a track and follow along with my voltmeter, tracing the path until I can find the power at the light!

Note: In my previous post I gave a link to a site showing 3 way switching! In variation number 6 it displays a schematic that may be close to yours! Here you can see a red wire connected to a white wire, and is an example of a variation of the white is neutral.
White is always the neutral, except when its not! :cursing:
 
#20 ·
Wildie, thanks, that was great analogy. I did indeed checked the drawings in the link you provided, but none applied to my situation as I have 3 cables with wires in the box at that light. Has anyone seen that before? Looks like it was wired like this from the start. Every sketch on that link has mostly one 3 wire and one two wire cable but where does this third 3 wire cable come in my box?
 
#19 ·
There are two cables coming into the switch box downstairs. 12/3 and 12/2.
Here is how they are wired to the switch:
1. Black from 12/3 + white from 12/2 twisted together and have a nut on.
2. White from 12/3 hooked to the top silver screw on the left side facing the switch.
3. Red from 12/3 hooked to top right screw facing the switch.

4. Cooper wires from 12/3 and 12/2 just twisted together not hooked or caped with anything (It's a plastic box)


12/2
1. Black from 12/2 hooked to the bottom right brass/black screw- switch, which is the common terminal.


When you come upstairs, I face my laundry closet and thats where the first light fixture is on the ceiling.

The light Fixture Box

Had Only Black, white and cooper -so that was easy to connect wires from my track light and its working.

Than, to the right there is a hall and gallery leading to bedrooms. Almost immediately to the right there is a door to 1st bedroom and another light switch to the right of that door. This is another 3 way light switch which controls both fixtures upstairs.

I took the plate down and noticed it is wired with 14/3 cable wires only.
It is working when I turn on the light, come upstairs and turn it of there.

Than, further down the hall, maybe 3 more feet, there is my problematic light fixture box on the ceiling and than pull down steps for the attic access, and than other bedrooms.

Now, this light switch box has 3 cables coming into it. Two 3 wire and 1 two wire cable. What I see and how they are twisted I explained above.
When we were scraping down popcorn ceiling, a friend of mine took the old fixture down, and I don't know what did he do to the wires and if he twisted any placing nuts on them.

My light fixture (track light has only 1 white, 1 black and one green-ground wire.
I could take a good look and try to sketch what I see and how are they twisted together, but it's preatty confusing. I will do this first thing in the morning though, but the problem is I don't know for sure which wires were connected to which on my old fixture and I don't know if my friend twisted the black and white together and don't know from which cables they are coming from,
The guy at Home Depot said that that black and white twisted together is my problem, so if so, maybe my friend twisted them after he removed the old fixture down and just put a nut on them.
So, if I untwist this two wires to connect white to white and black to black, shouldn't all whites and blacks be spliced with the same nut?
That would give me 4 whites under one nut (two twisted already, white from the white/black twisted and white from my light fixture.
The same would happen with black wires.

So, if anyone knows how this maze should work I would really appreciate any help. You guys have been great so far and I trust you more than Lowes and Home Depot guys.

I want to do this right and will re-wire tomorrow downstairs light switch with 12/3 and 12/2 I purchased today.
I admit when I first did it, I brought in with me a fire distinguisher from the garage before I turned that braker and than my new switch on. Just in case.
But, everything was cool, one track light on but the other-no lights.:smartass:
 
#22 ·
There are two cables coming into the switch box downstairs. 12/3 and 12/2.
Here is how they are wired to the switch:
1. Black from 12/3 + white from 12/2 twisted together and have a nut on.
2. White from 12/3 hooked to the top silver screw on the left side facing the switch.
3. Red from 12/3 hooked to top right screw facing the switch.

4. Cooper wires from 12/3 and 12/2 just twisted together not hooked or caped with anything (It's a plastic box)

Usually the power from the supply will arrive on the 12/2 cable. Its white would be connected to the 12/3 white. Its black connected to the identified terminal on the switch [ black ]
The 12/3 red and black would connect to the remaining 2 terminals. It doesn't matter which one.
There should not be any unconnected wires.
Next you will need to know where the 12/3 cable terminates. [ at the other switch or one of the lights ]

12/2
1. Black from 12/2 hooked to the bottom right brass/black screw- switch, which is the common terminal.


When you come upstairs, I face my laundry closet and thats where the first light fixture is on the ceiling.

The light Fixture Box

Had Only Black, white and cooper -so that was easy to connect wires from my track light and its working.

Than, to the right there is a hall and gallery leading to bedrooms. Almost immediately to the right there is a door to 1st bedroom and another light switch to the right of that door. This is another 3 way light switch which controls both fixtures upstairs.

I took the plate down and noticed it is wired with 14/3 cable wires only.

It appears that the 12/3 cable from the switch downstairs runs up to light near the pull down stairs. If so the 12/3 red and black should be connected to the red and black of the 14/3 running to the upstairs switch. The white from the 12/3 would be the neutral and would be connected to the white of the light fixture. The white from the 14/3 would connect to the black of the fixture.
Now to make the other (1st) work, a 14/2 cable would be run between the lights. The 1st one would connect to its fixture, black to black and white to white.
The other end near the pull down steps, would connect to the black and white of the fixture.
This accounts for 3 of the cables in the box.

It is working when I turn on the light, come upstairs and turn it of there.

Than, further down the hall, maybe 3 more feet, there is my problematic light fixture box on the ceiling and than pull down steps for the attic access, and than other bedrooms.

Now, this light switch box has 3 cables coming into it. Two 3 wire and 1 two wire cable. What I see and how they are twisted I explained above.
When we were scraping down popcorn ceiling, a friend of mine took the old fixture down, and I don't know what did he do to the wires and if he twisted any placing nuts on them.

My light fixture (track light has only 1 white, 1 black and one green-ground wire.
I could take a good look and try to sketch what I see and how are they twisted together, but it's preatty confusing. I will do this first thing in the morning though, but the problem is I don't know for sure which wires were connected to which on my old fixture and I don't know if my friend twisted the black and white together and don't know from which cables they are coming from,
The guy at Home Depot said that that black and white twisted together is my problem, so if so, maybe my friend twisted them after he removed the old fixture down and just put a nut on them.
So, if I untwist this two wires to connect white to white and black to black, shouldn't all whites and blacks be spliced with the same nut?
That would give me 4 whites under one nut (two twisted already, white from the white/black twisted and white from my light fixture.
The same would happen with black wires.

So, if anyone knows how this maze should work I would really appreciate any help. You guys have been great so far and I trust you more than Lowes and Home Depot guys.

I want to do this right and will re-wire tomorrow downstairs light switch with 12/3 and 12/2 I purchased
today.

I hope that its not much trouble to replace the wire as it would be unnecessary if the breaker were replaced with a 15 anp one!

I admit when I first did it, I brought in with me a fire distinguisher from the garage before I turned that braker and than my new switch on. Just in case.

Its usually easier to put out an electrical by shutting off the power. The fire extinguisher would only be good for secondary fire in the nearby combustables.
If you did screw up, the breaker should trip, long before a fire could occur. Thats what they are for!
But, everything was cool, one track light on but the other-no lights.:smartass:
If what I have written is confusing, let me know and maybe I can post a pic!
 
#23 ·
Thank you soooo much Wildie! :thumbsup: You really, really know your stuff!:)
I will print this up, climb the step leather and examine that box first thing in the morning and than I will connect wires like you said. Will keep you posted.

Regarding this rewiring downstairs, I think I better rewire, because I have quite few more things on that circuit and computer-laptop when I am in the kitchen. The circuit end/starts in the garage. Maybe 15 amps would not be enough, after all ?
 
#27 ·
This is how I normally troubleshoot 3 way circuits, at least, that's what I did in my house. Note that this is only safe if the circuit is fed from the light, as no matter which wires you play with here, you will not get a short.

Basically, trial and error, hook it up with the clips while being very careful not to touch the wire ends and try the switches until you get it right, then turn off the breaker and wire it up properly and good to go!

Not exactly the "Safest" way, but it's all about how agile you are with your hands so you don't touch the wires. Also I would not recommend this with high wattage lights as when you play with this it does arc a bit. Don't leave it unattended! Also crocodile clips are FAR from rated for 120v so don't go getting any funny ideas for permanent setups. :p

Really the concept is fairly simple, it's figuring out which wire goes where that can be tricky, and which screw is which, on the switch. They seem to make them all different. Figuring out the switches is not as hard since you can trial and error it with batteries and a flashlight bulb first and mark the screw that is used for the special traveler. The other two screws don't have any particular order.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Should I give up?

If I was brave enough to try that Squirrel, but this thing is driving me crazy by now and I have put sooo much time into it...

I rewired this morning to 12/2 and 12/3...and wired at the downstairs according to Wildie's instruction, so all is "comme il faut" down there...
I sketched the diagram for the upstairs and while I was examining the cables and wires to determine which one was 14/3 and which 12/3 I couldn't tell, the wires seemed all the same thickness, so I went back to my second 3 way switch on the wall upstairs, compared a peace of 14/2 to what is in the box and sure enough, its 12/3 in that light switch , not 14/3 as I thought. Ok, than I could see there were two 3 wires and one 2 from the box in the ceiling, but had to "assume" which one is the light switch-there is no way of knowing both cables being 12/3s.

Anyway, I connected everything as per Wilidie's instructions, connected my track light wires as per instructions, turn the breaker on and still nothing. The first track lighted but second still dead.

Than, I thought of removing the track light and trying reattaching the old fixture, just to see if it would work , and IT DID! Wow!
So now I knew, wiring was OK, just as Wildie recommended! Thanks so much! But, it must be bad track light fixture...

So I said, "Aha!" I will just go get new one.... I took it back to Lowes and got me the same brand new one.
Back home, I knew now it should most likely work and was very excited. I attached the track and than put only 1 out of 3 bulbs just to try and see, but still nothing.
Than I put another bulb, turned the breaker on again, and VOILA! the second one I put on was "shining" but the first bulb I attached was still dead, on the same track.

I was thinking why was that? Maybe only that bulb is bad... I did peal off the stickers from the first one and cleaned with Goof Off the glue residue from the housing, but on that second bulb, I left all the stickers on. So now I go back down to pick up the third bulb and see if IT would work as the second one did. I turned my breaker off, attached the third bulb, ran downstairs to turn on the breaker, turned the switch on, but now ALL THREE not working, even the one that lighted up a while ago.

So what is it? At least I know that wiring is ok as it worked for a short while and my old outdated fixture worked when I attached... Could it be that I got another bad track light fixture or am I doing something to kill it every time I touch it? what else could it be???

OMG, I am getting desperate as everything else is waiting and I got still so much to do
Wildie, what is wrong with all this, please?
I hope you guys can help me and know what is going on here? At this point I am very frustrated, but not giving up just yet... Thanks!:(
 
#29 ·
If I was brave enough to try that Squirrel, but this thing is driving me crazy by now and I have put sooo much time into it...

I rewired this morning to 12/2 and 12/3...and wired at the downstairs according to Wildie's instruction, so all is "comme il faut" down there...
I sketched the diagram for the upstairs and while I was examining the cables and wires to determine which one was 14/3 and which 12/3 I couldn't tell, the wires seemed all the same thickness, so I went back to my second 3 way switch on the wall upstairs, compared a peace of 14/2 to what is in the box and sure enough, its 12/3 in that light switch , not 14/3 as I thought. Ok, than I could see there were two 3 wires and one 2 from the box in the ceiling, but had to "assume" which one is the light switch-there is no way of knowing both cables being 12/3s.
There is a way of knowing! It will require opening the reds and the blacks at the location near the pull down stairs. Then, turn on the circuit breaker and test for voltage on each of the 4 wires, with a voltmeter! One of the wires will have voltage and this will be the cable that comes from down-stairs. You can buy a multimeter for about $20. (thanks to the Chinese)

Anyway, I connected everything as per Wilidie's instructions, connected my track light wires as per instructions, turn the breaker on and still nothing. The first track lighted but second still dead.

Than, I thought of removing the track light and trying reattaching the old fixture, just to see if it will work , and IT DID! Wow!

Does it work from both switches?

So now I knew, wiring was OK, just as Wildie recommended! Thanks so much!
Yer welcome! :yes:

So, I figured the fixture must be bad and took it back to Lowes and got me the same brand new one.
Back home, I knew now it should work and was very excited. I attached the track and than put only 1 out of 3 bulbs just to try, but still nothing.
Than I put another bulb, turned the breaker on, and VOILA! the second one I put on was "shining" but the first one was still dead, on the same track.

I was thinking why was that? I did peal off the stickers from the first one and cleaned with Goof Off the glue residue from the housing, but on that second bulb, I left all the stickers on. So now I go back down to pick up the third bulb and see if it would work as the second one did. I turned my breaker off, attached the third bulb, ran downstairs to turn on the breaker, turned the switch on, but now ALL THREE not working, even the one that lighted up a while ago.

So what is it? At least I know that wiring is ok as it worked for a short while... Could it be that I got another bad track light fixture or am I doing something to kill it every time I touch it? what else could it be???

It appears that these track fixture are questionable. Perhaps a bad batch? The Lowes people should be able to advise you on whether they are defective or not!
Are the lamps powered by 120 volts or is there a 'ballast' that powers the lamps. Maybe if you post the make and model of the fixture, I could Google it and be of better assistance.

OMG, I am getting desperate as everything else is waiting and I got still so much to do
Wildie, what is wrong with all this, please?
I hope you guys can help me and know what is going on here? At this point I am very frustrated, but not giving up just yet... Thanks!:(
Don't give up now, you have it almost beaten! :thumbup:
 
#30 ·
You are wonderful, Wildie! Thank you so much for all you do and your time and encouragement!
How can I give up now?! :wink:

Here is the serila number of the fixture. I guess you can search it Lowes website:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=233049-47842-15745-000

They will have description there, i hope the link works
Its #233049 from Portfolio. Lovely, elegant fixture....but

I will be waiting for your response. Thanks again!
 
#32 ·
OK! Now I have some idea of what the fixture is like! It uses GU10 style lamps. These may be purchased in various voltages, so I assume that yours are 120 volt ones.
If so, you will have no ballast/transformer involved. The black and white fixture wires will be connected directly to the track!
You do have one fixture that is fully functional! Yes?
The first thing is to test your lamps from the problem fixture, by trying them one at a time in the good fixture!
Once its verified that all the lamps are good, the next place to look, is where the sockets connect to the track!
Make sure that they are properly seated and in contact with the voltage carrying part of the track!

:thumbsup:
 
#34 ·
Yes, no transformer, I took the photos of actual light fixtures.
I am sure there was connection and I put them in right, I checked and re-checked lots of time.

But testing lamps on the good track is an excellent idea, how I didn't think of that....:jester:
Will try first thing in the morning during day light.. It will be very interesting as this will tell me if its the bad lamp again or its something else...It's kinda dark up there now as i keep this braker off.
Little tired now of running up and down the stairs all day long .. Thanks again Wildie, I will keep you posted.
 
#36 ·
We did it! Finally!!!!!

Ditto that, Wildie! Spending less time at the gym and having even better results...:thumbsup:

Anyway, your suggestion to try the lamp on a working track was brilliant and it finally solved the problem! Yaaay!!!

I took the non-working bulb and replaced one on good track light. Sure enough, the other two lighted, but this one was dead. So now I think it must be yet another bad track light fixture.
Than I took the working bulb I originally took down from the working track light and tried that on non-working track: dead again, nothing happened.
So now, just putting those bulbs in and out of the tracks-it hit me to try to rotate them into the track from different direction: left to right instead right to left - but they could be inserted either way.

So, I changed direction as it appeared they snapped in somewhat easier from left to right and DITTO! This did it! Now I have an early Christmas upstairs and can go ahead and paint the walls and woodwork and repair the downstairs hole in the drywall where I extended the new light switch! Yay!

I just feel bad to have returned the first track light to Lowes, cause it was probably OK. But instruction never noted the direction from which to snap this bulbs in.....

Wildie, I just wish I could return the favor, I am so very grateful to you for all your help and for sticking with me through "thick and thin" - just when I almost gave up. :thumbup:

Now, I can finish final installation of this "bad track light fixture" and than head for couple of hours at the beach! I deserve it too!

Thank you ALL again! With my special thanks to WILDIE!:clap:
 
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