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Old 01-13-2010, 10:15 PM   #1
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


Hey everyone. I am currently working on my half bath. It previously used a light fixture with a pull string rather than a switch. I'd like to add a switch on the opposite wall. The existing wiring comes up right under where the GFI receptacle will be. I would like to be able to control my light with the switch, but not control the receptacle. I do not desire to protect the switch and light, unless I am talked into it. Can you guys verify if this is the correct way to wire. I have left the ground wire out of the diagram for simplicity. Thanks in advance for any advice!

My main thread is here http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/remod...r-walls-36487/ which has pictures if it helps to better visualize what I'm going for.


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Last edited by rh8868; 01-13-2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:28 PM   #2
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


in theory it will work,but if it was being inspected you would need a seperate 20A circuit to feed the gfi.im sure nap will come along and start quotingscripture from the good book of the nec anytime now about why you cant posibly do it this way!

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Old 01-13-2010, 11:42 PM   #3
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


Hey thanks for the input. I got a good laugh out of it too!
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:48 PM   #4
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


You do need a 20a circuit in the bathroom to meet code
As long as you are remodeling do it right & run a 20a circuit
Any good electrician will tell you the same
And your Inspector will make you install a 20a on a remodel

Lights & outlet can be on the same circuit if they ONLY feed 1 bathroom
Are you sure the existing wire is only 14-2 ?
They did make 12-2 white wire
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:57 PM   #5
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


You need to reverse the colours going to the switch. The hot feed should be the white and the switched line should be the black to be code. 20 amp circuit also required to be code.
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:49 AM   #6
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


I double checked throughout the basement for a label on the existing wiring to this bathroom and it is 12/2 luckily. I did find an area on this line that the ?sheathing? is coming completely apart. Other than this the only bad thing, you guys have mentioned it needs to be on it's own circuit. There are like a billion junction boxes where this line is branching off. It feeds an old workshop corner in the basement with plugs and lights, all my kitchen outlets, and likely numerous others. So here's my thought, I agree with doing it right the first and only time. Can anyone see any problem with replacing the wiring from the nearest junction box to my bathroom for now. Then in the next couple months, working on the wiring from the basement to run this line to the panel for it's own circuit? This way I can be within code, and my budget, and my ability for the time being without making something I will later have to tear into.

I bought this house in October 2008 and have been slowly working on it. Just so you guys know it wasn't me that practically ran the entire first floor on one circuit.

Also I made the adjustments that Joed has mentioned. How are we doing now?

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Old 01-14-2010, 02:06 AM   #7
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


I will just ditch the exsting circuit and just run the new one the drawing is correct.


It will be much easier to do that way instead of try to work around with tonnes of junctions boxes and less numbers of splices that can go wrong.

I will suggest that you check one 12-2NM to see if that have ground in there if not ditch that one as well and check the junciton box as well.


I do understand what your plans but as soon you get the fund build up and work one section a time with new circuit.

BTW the kitchen receptales must be on own circuits { 20 amp }with RCD { GFCI }

I did read the other thread what you been doing in the bathroom and that old wires what they called Tube and Knob that is really old school set up and senice you allready open the wall so you have to ditch that and run the new circuit for the bathroom anyway.

For that two wires sticking out one you can clip it very close and seal up with electrical tape and the other one just go the other side of wall and look at the device and find that wire and pull it out.

I will suggest that do it right first time and you don't have to mess around it again later it will be easier do it when the wall is allready open.

BTW the way the codes written once you open the wall up you have to bring up to date with electrical stuff I don't know about plumming but I have strong feeling that will need to be dealt with it as well.


Merci,Marc
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:38 AM   #8
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


You might want to run the neutral wire through your switch box along with the incoming hot and switched hot. If you ever want to install a fancy switch like a timer or dimmer, the switch itself could require a neutral. Not much harder to run 3-conductor wire instead of 2- to the box.
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:57 AM   #9
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


Quote:
Originally Posted by joed View Post
You need to reverse the colours going to the switch. The hot feed should be the white and the switched line should be the black to be code. 20 amp circuit also required to be code.
hes got black lines on the white wire ,im guessing that means hes marking the white wire with black tape to identify it.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:48 AM   #10
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


Quote:
Originally Posted by plummen View Post
hes got black lines on the white wire ,im guessing that means hes marking the white wire with black tape to identify it.
Right - but the one that was recoded white to black with tape needs to be the incoming hot. The black wire needs to be the switched power going to the light.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:22 AM   #11
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


It's best to have one continous run of wire all the way back to the panel without any junction boxes
Since this circuit is so overloaded already, I would just do it now
Is there a reason not to ?
A breaker is like $8 at most
Without a dedicated 20a run it does not meet code & will not pass inspection

Yeah, kitchen needs (2) dedicated 20a counter circuits
Older houses were run with very few circuits
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:51 AM   #12
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


So I'd use 12/3 cable then if I want to prepare for a dimmer or timer then right? I'll see what I can do about running all the way to the panel in one shot. I've got to check on the pricing for the 12/2 and 12/3 cable, since I only have 14/2 on me and with $400 utility bills because of my boiler it gets a little tight it the winter.

So is my second diagram correct or no? I couldn't tell by the replies.

Thanks guys!
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:57 AM   #13
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Please check my diagram for a half bath


I am thinking just run 12/3 from the outlet box to switch box, use the white as the neutral, the red as the hot feed to the switch, and the black as the switched power back to the light. Then just 12/2 from the outlet fixture to the light. Tie the whites together, and the black from the switch ties to the black from the light, like your diagram already shows.

The white can just be capped in the switch box, ready to tie into if necessary. I think this is ok to do, but I am still learning myself so I'd be interested in a second opinion.

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