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Old 02-06-2008, 01:40 PM   #1
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


Well, finally got around to troubleshooting why my garage door opener makes noise when pressed, but doesn't actually move. It does move freely manually, just not with the motor.

After spending a while trying to learn the basic workings of this thing (yeah, I'm slow today lol), I finally found where the problem was (well, the big problem, actually found others but they were fixable ).



The gearing to turn the chain is made of plastic, and 1 of the wheels is just mashed up. I cleaned the mashed plastic out of its grooves, but it still won't catch!!!! I don't even know how I'd approach getting that out if replacement wheels/gears are available, nor do I know if it'd even be worth doing so. I don't see any way to bring the gears closer/tigher to improve their grip on each other, so I guess I'm just hoping that, perhaps, I'm missing something really obvious here!!

Any insight on this is hugely appreciated!!!!
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?-dscn2574.jpg   Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?-dscn2573.jpg  

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Old 02-06-2008, 01:43 PM   #2
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


(the mashed up gear is the large one in the 2nd pic, and it's the one hidden by the horizontal gear in the first pic, in case they weren't clear )

It just doesn't seem to make sense which is why I think I'm missing something. If they grind up that easily wouldn't they just be made of metal then? And how could 1 get soooo ground up w/o the other looking mashed? Heh, I don't even know how it got that mashed since, in its current state, it cannot catch the other gear for even a single second. I don't know how you'd get it ground up that far, I mean it's like it was being spun long after the opener was inoperable!!

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Old 02-06-2008, 02:00 PM   #3
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


I've seen this exact thing numerous times.
You can sometimes get the gear (Sears I assume) but many times it's just not worth it.

Does this door have the sensors on the rails to detect a child or animal?
If not I'd just replace the whole opener.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:37 PM   #4
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


It could be fixable but sometime it can be pain in butt to get into the gearing but once you replace the gear then you have to retime the bloody thing.,, i know some have sliding cam lever to two micro switches one for upper limit and other one is for lower limit. BUT if this thing is pretty old if the part is no longer avable it will be wiser just get new GDO to be much safer this way.

i am supecting sometime the worm gear can get damaged by overloading or close the door too hard when final stage and can put in alot of stress on the worm gear [ i did see that happend before ]

but for rest of details Speedy Pete is right on the nail with the info he prodive to you.

Merci ,Marc
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:58 PM   #5
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


I could see this happening to a GDO when the door is just too damn big for the size opener, or, if the door is not properly counterbalanced when operated in it's "manual" mode.
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:39 PM   #6
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


Yes, it is a sears brand (craftsman), quite old (~10yr probably), and does have the side sensors.

The actual door wasn't even on the chain's track when I got here. Hmm I didn't phrase that clearly - the middle rail still supports the door when I manually open it, but the chain doesn't move, the spot that connects the chain to the top of the garage door is disconnected on the rail itself. I can turn the gears manually to move the chain, but it won't move the door (since the door's not connected to the chain). Even w/o the door connected to the chain, the motor cannot even turn, like it cannot even move the chain itself, let alone the door.


Well, thanks for the help, that's what I feared!! It's not even close to worth getting a new one for me since it's a 1 car garage and, thus, my gym and my shop, so no cars have been in there yet and likely never will. Manual has worked fine, guess I was just hoping I'd tinker for an hour or two and have the thing working!!
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Old 02-06-2008, 04:03 PM   #7
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


Quote:
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...... guess I was just hoping I'd tinker for an hour or two and have the thing working!!
Then hell, contact Sears and try to get the gear. It's worth trying, especially if you don't desperately need the door.

Get the number off it and try Sears' web site.
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Old 02-06-2008, 04:05 PM   #8
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...t/index.action
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Old 02-06-2008, 04:20 PM   #9
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


I think that happens to every one of those openers.
You can get those gears from Sears easily. I just replaced mine last fall. There are different kits for different models that includes both gears, new bearings, grease and pins. They come with very good instruction on how to replace the parts.
The openers are actually chamberlain but I found the local dealers and Chamberlain could not match the price of Sears including delivery to my house.
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:48 PM   #10
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


I had a very old 1/3 hp Sears opener that worked fine for many years then the same thing happened- unfortunately they no longer carried the parts and I did purchase a new Chamberlain 1/2 hp opener to replace it. In my case I had a waterlogged (mostly) wooden 16' door that I replaced with a Clopay hi-efficiency steel model. The new door (steel and foam sandwich) was much lighter and the old opener might have been usable if the gear hadn't stripped.

Make sure your springs are doing their job well and able to raise the door easily. When my door became waterlogged, it added much weight which the opener could no longer handle.
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Last edited by handyman78; 02-06-2008 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 02-06-2008, 07:54 PM   #11
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


This is a garage door opener?!
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:07 PM   #12
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


I'm with joed on this one. The exact same thing happened to my in-law's garage door opener, so my FIL ordered a kit off ebay designed for the model of opener he had. The kit (IIRC) cost about $10, took a week to ship, and was installed and working in a couple of hours.

The biggest inconvenience: Listening to my mother-in-law complain about having to park in the driveway, of all places, for a week.
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Old 02-07-2008, 08:04 AM   #13
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


Quote:
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This is a garage door opener?!
Those pictures are the exact shot of the worn gear drive in many openers.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:19 PM   #14
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


If you are on a budget, replace the gear and cross your fingers.
The cost of a new opener is $150.
You got over 10 years out of the one you have.
I think $15 a year is a pretty damn good investment ....
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:36 AM   #15
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Is this (pics) garage door opener beyond repair?


I just fixed this same problem with my opener yesterday. It's a Liftmaster model #1260 but the layout of parts looks identical to yours from pics you posted. I just stumbled onto this site this AM but had found a few similar articles on the web which led me to believe that this is a common problem. Btw, my opener is about 12+ yrs and up until now had no problems.

I called Sears parts direct yesterday at 800-252-1698 and gave them my model number and they told me what the part number is for the gear and sprocket kit. The part # is 41C4220A and costs $32.49. You can order it online at searspartsdirect.com assuming that is the correct part for yours but double check with them. I am in Chicago so I drove to a nearby part center and had the item in about 20 mins.

Ok, onto the fix. If you do not have the original owners manual wait until you get the kit before removing the gear and sprocket assembly as it contains instructions on how to do so. Granted there not the best but do help. The complete repair took me a few hours as I took my time taking things apart so as to recall how they go back together later. If you read other articles on the web folks suggest just replacing the gear that is stripped which is shown in your 1st picture above. I did not go this route and went ahead and replaced everything included in the kit. Replacing the worm gear shown in your 2nd picture is actually a little more involved since you have to remove the motor from the opener itself so you can remove it from the motor shaft. I think this is the main reason why most folks just replace the gear and sprocket assembly and skip changing the worm gear but like I said I chose to replace all items that came in the kit.

Things to note:
1) When installing the sprocket assembly remember to position it correctly so that you will be able to mount the black plastic sprocket cover later. If you orient this incorrectly it will still work but you will not be able to reuse the sprocket cover later unless you disassemble it again.
2) If you choose to replace the worm gear remember to note where the wires go the motor when reinstalling.
3) Setting the timing of the door can be an issue but turned out to be easy for me. Since the gears are stripped the motor and the limit switch (which controls up and down limits) no longer knows where the door (the trolley on the chain) is at. The way I solved this was to move the limit switch manually to where it almost hits the down limit as to mimic the door being in the fully closed position. This was done with the limit switch not connected so that it does not move when you run the opener later to position the trolley / door. The steps below require everything to be connected since you have to run the opener so you can move the trolley and door to the fully closed position. I had the front and back panels connected, cover off and limit switch connected electrically but disengaged from sprocket assembly.
- Set the limit switch as described above while it is not connected to the sprocket assembly. Leave it hanging for now.
- Plug in the opener. Please remember that all components must be connected. I left the cover off and the panels hanging as noted above. Please be sure that nothing is touching any of the parts that will be moving when running the opener.
- Using a remote control, run the opener so that the trolley can hook up with the door. This assumes that the door was disengaged from the trolley earlier. Please make sure that you DO NOT run the trolley into the opener. Remember since the limit switch is physically hanging and not not connected to the sprocket the opener has no way of knowing where the limits are.
- With the trolley and door connected, run the opener so that the door can positioned into the fully closed position. I accomplished this by unplugging the opener as soon as the door was in the correct position. Now you have the door and sprocket assembly in the fully closed position along with the limit switch in the fully closed position.
- Connect the limit switch to the opener housing.
- Plug in the opener and test the door. You will most likely have to adjust the down limit but it should be pretty close due to the prior steps that we took before. Once you set the up and down limits plus the up and down force settings you are all done.
- Install the cover and panels.

That's it.

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