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Old 10-14-2007, 06:29 AM   #16
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Overhead Service - SER Cable


As for securing the conduit to the siding, I would use minerlac straps and mount the strap where the siding is closest to the home.

Strap shown here http://www.minerallac.com/Hangers.htm

If the conduit is already up, try two hole straps http://www.minerallac.com/Straps.htm

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Old 10-14-2007, 07:22 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Andy in ATL View Post
Heck, I have confidence in you. The way you described affixing the 2x4 and stapling the service to it is exactly how the pro's do it( this one, anyways) . As far as attaching the wire to the ground rods, if you feel good about it, well then so do I. The ground rods are for lightning events and freak high voltage line surges( also usually a lightning event) only. In the ATL we frequently come out of the can to the first rod which is typically two feet off the side of the house (easier to drive) attach a couple of inches below grade, double back to the house running the wire above grade next to the foundation and then back out to the foundation.
That's a good idea....The house has a pier foundation instead of solid block, but I like the idea of doubling back and running it near the house. I'll just dig a little trench under the house so that it is out of the way of someone digging later.

Thanks!
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:26 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by jwhite View Post
As for securing the conduit to the siding, I would use minerlac straps and mount the strap where the siding is closest to the home.

Strap shown here http://www.minerallac.com/Hangers.htm

If the conduit is already up, try two hole straps http://www.minerallac.com/Straps.htm
That first link, those are nice. Wish I'd known about them before hand

As it stands now, I've already started with the ones I have and since I've already poked holes in the siding, I'll try something like the two hole straps. Do they make them so that they go further around the pipe? The problem I finding is the standard straps assume a flat surface and so the strap goes just as far as the conduit. I need something with a little offset or something I could augment with like a bushing.
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:51 AM   #19
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http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=CB206
From where you are now I would get some of these.

Next I would buy some 1/4 inch rigid conduit. One or two nipples will do, we are going to cut them up.

I would drill a small hole in the siding where the screw needs to go. I would poke in a small screwdriver to get a measurement for how long to cut the 1/4 rigid pipe. I would use the pipe to make a sleeve that will slide over the lag bolt. Then I would install the one hole strap and back plate using the newly made sleeve to prevent the screw from going in too far. I would let the pipe pinch the siding just a bit but not alot. Every place I needed one strap I would put two, one above the other spaced one siding height apart, in oposite directions.

I would calk the snot out of the holes to keep water out of the house.
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Old 10-14-2007, 01:28 PM   #20
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Sounds good....That's what I was needing was a creative way to make a sleeve and the nipple idea is a good one. Thanks! (now wish I had a portable band saw)
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:56 PM   #21
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I forgot a couple of other questions.

1) As the old panel had most of its single phase connections at the bottom on a fuse buss and 220V connections at the top on pull out fuse blocks, when re-terminating everything in the new panel is it hokey to have a few breakers at the bottom for those shorter leads, then spaces and the rest of the breakers at the top. I'd prefer to do that vs nutting splices in and really making it look messy.

2) On the SEU cable that enters the box, I assume you trim back the insulation just beyond the box entry clamp (inside panel side) and route one phase up the right, and one phase up the left. The panel has two Neutral bars that are bonded together with a strap between the left and right. I also plan to install ground bars on each side just to keep everything neat. The Neutral is bonded to the panel/ground via a bonding screw. To my question. I assume I take the uninsulated wires that surround the two phases and twist them together (like I did in the meter) to make one twisted unsheilded cable. How best to route this up the panel and keep it from touching anything (like drifting over to a hot). Can you secure it with clips or just bend it since it is rigid enough to where it is away from everything. Same thing for my #4 ground which comes off the Neutral bar on the left and back to the ground rods (local code here requires ground in the panel, not the meter).

3) Similar to above, once the cables are routed from the bottom up the sides to the top, how do you make the tight bend into the lugs? I learned you have to be careful using linemans pliars as they tend to mar the insulation. Should I wrap it in tape and bend it, then remove the tape? This 4/0 is a bear to bend even if it is soft aluminum.

4) (Okay I lied, not a couple but 4) How much antioxident? I've seen pictures on-line where you see none vs one picture where it looks like there's a whole tube dripping down from one lug. On the one set of meter connections I've made so far, I just lightly coated the wire, the lug and the hold down clamp.

Last edited by robertmee; 10-14-2007 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:25 PM   #22
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Overhead Service - SER Cable


1) That would be fine.

2 and 3) )I leave about 1/4 " of insulation above the clamp. When routing my wires in a resi panel I route the ground first and get it good and shoved to the back. The wires are tough to bend and getting them perfect only comes with experience, which is not something you have a ton of. The best piece of advice I could give you is to cut the conductors atleast one foot to long and one at a time start eyeballing the bend, bending the conductors while they are pulled out of the panel and you can get leverage on them. TAKE YOUR TIME! The ONE thing you don't want to do is cut the conductors to short. Wrapping in tape and using linemans pliers aren't necessary. Leverage is the key. Don't fixate on perfection!

4) Just enough anti-oxidant to coat the wires COMPLETELY is the key. Drippage is not necessary, although I have attained it on hot days. When it is all done post a picture so we can all pick it apart. (just kidding)

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