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-   -   Output on Florescent Ballast? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/output-florescent-ballast-44049/)

aggiesrok 05-07-2009 08:57 PM

Output on Florescent Ballast?
 
I replaced the ballast and wired it blue-blue, red-red, blk-blk, wht-wht. I didn't realize that the new ballast wires in paralell, the old was in series. 2 blues on one end and red on the other with black and white as line. It did work for a while, but now nothing. Did I fry the ballast? Can I measure the output on the blue & red? Also, If I did fry the ballast, do I need to replace the lamp holder, since mine have a blk and white wire on each or can I just twist them together with the red wire? Thanks.

frenchelectrican 05-08-2009 01:19 AM

we need more info here.,

What ballast size , bulb size and type it have on the luminaire now?

The very important part is you must follow the connection diagram on the ballast this is the only way it will function properly.

Merci,Marc

aggiesrok 05-08-2009 09:04 AM

Info
 
It is a multi-voltage ballast 120v -277v. The lamps are 96" T12. The ballast has blk and wht - line voltage and then 2- blue and 1 red. The wiring diagram calls for 1 each blue to the lamp end and then red to both of the opposite ends. I definitely wired it to the old ballast diagram which is wrong.

Yoyizit 05-08-2009 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aggiesrok (Post 270997)
Did I fry the ballast? Can I measure the output on the blue & red?

Is the ballast electronic or magnetic?

If you get hundreds of volts for the tubes from a mag ballast it's probably OK.

For a better test and for electronic 'lasts you may want to load down the leads with a resistor while you measure the voltage; the manuf. can help you with this.

Post a schematic of the ballast hookup.

aggiesrok 05-08-2009 09:29 AM

Diagram
 
1 Attachment(s)
It's electronic and here is the wiring diagram.
GE LFL Multi-Volt ProLine Electronic Mutlivolt Instant Start Ballast

Yoyizit 05-08-2009 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aggiesrok (Post 271169)
It's electronic and here is the wiring diagram.
GE LFL Multi-Volt ProLine Electronic Mutlivolt Instant Start Ballast

OK, so from red to either blue lead should be hundreds of volts. The ballast may need tubes in place in order to start.
A working setup should have voltage across and current into the tubes to equal rated watts or VA in.
I s'pose a tube could be simulated with a hi wattage resistor but you need to know voltages and currents in order to spec' this resistor.
Advance makes ballasts and they have/had troubleshooting hints on the their website.

aggiesrok 05-08-2009 11:15 AM

Thanks
 
Thanks guys for all help. I'm getting nothing and I wired it according to diagram. I'm pretty sure I fried it.

Yoyizit 05-08-2009 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aggiesrok (Post 271221)
Thanks guys for all help. I'm getting nothing and I wired it according to diagram. I'm pretty sure I fried it.

If it's drawing current w/no output it's probably fried. If no current draw there might be an internal fuse you can replace.

J. V. 05-08-2009 11:22 AM

I think you should change the lamps first. It's not real easy to fry a ballast. Try replacing tubes with known good ones before you buy another ballast to be sure.

joed 05-08-2009 02:14 PM

Looks like you are changing from a T12 to a T8 electronic. If the tubes don't come on you fried the ballast.

aggiesrok 05-08-2009 03:09 PM

It fried the ballast, one of them partially liquified the black insulation gel. I replaced them with new ones and wired it according to the diagram and it works great. Thanks for the responses and all of the help.


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