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Old 11-03-2012, 09:31 AM   #1
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outlet and light in pocket door


Ok, my bathroom entrance is a pocket door. Alas, the vanity/sink is against this wall. I used a Johnston pocket door kit and it has split jams 3/4" thick. I would like to install both a receptacle and a light in this wall. Reading other posts, they say to build the wall out. Ok, will have to do that.

My idea is to install 3/4" furring strips parallel to the floor. This gives me 1 1/2 + 1/2" greenboard for a total of 2". Now there are boxes that are only
1 1/4" inch deep. I would like to install two of these and run the 12/2 wires up, stapled to the inside of the furring strips.

Does anyone know if this is legal, wise, or just stupid. I really don't want to build out the wall a full 1 1/2".

Thanks

-John

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Old 11-03-2012, 10:33 AM   #2
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outlet and light in pocket door


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Ok, my bathroom entrance is a pocket door. Alas, the vanity/sink is against this wall. I used a Johnston pocket door kit and it has split jams 3/4" thick. I would like to install both a receptacle and a light in this wall. Reading other posts, they say to build the wall out. Ok, will have to do that.

My idea is to install 3/4" furring strips parallel to the floor. This gives me 1 1/2 + 1/2" greenboard for a total of 2". Now there are boxes that are only
1 1/4" inch deep. I would like to install two of these and run the 12/2 wires up, stapled to the inside of the furring strips.

Does anyone know if this is legal, wise, or just stupid. I really don't want to build out the wall a full 1 1/2".

Thanks

-John

You need 1 1/2 wall thickness, I use 4" sq boxes with mudrings when dealing with this scenario.

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Old 11-03-2012, 10:41 AM   #3
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outlet and light in pocket door


You can't staple the wires to the furring strips. They must be at lest 1.25 from the face of the bare wall. This is to prevent the wires from being pierce by nails or screws. You will need conduit to protect the wires.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:50 AM   #4
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You can't staple the wires to the furring strips. They must be at lest 1.25 from the face of the bare wall. This is to prevent the wires from being pierce by nails or screws. You will need conduit to protect the wires.
Conduit is one option, not a requirement. The OP can secure the wires 1 1/4 away from the edge with other methods.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:17 PM   #5
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outlet and light in pocket door


Quote:
Originally Posted by ockham View Post
Ok, my bathroom entrance is a pocket door. Alas, the vanity/sink is against this wall. I used a Johnston pocket door kit and it has split jams 3/4" thick. I would like to install both a receptacle and a light in this wall. Reading other posts, they say to build the wall out. Ok, will have to do that.

My idea is to install 3/4" furring strips parallel to the floor. This gives me 1 1/2 + 1/2" greenboard for a total of 2". Now there are boxes that are only
1 1/4" inch deep. I would like to install two of these and run the 12/2 wires up, stapled to the inside of the furring strips.

Does anyone know if this is legal, wise, or just stupid. I really don't want to build out the wall a full 1 1/2".

Thanks


-John
Show your layout. Sounds like the door is sliding in the wrong direction.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:56 PM   #6
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outlet and light in pocket door


I know what you're dealing with. To save space, every interior door in my log house is a pocket door. The first floor bathroom has two of them.

My wife and I built the house ourselves. After all the interior walls were framed up, we studied each room carefully to determine which way the door should open, and where switches and outlets should go while still meeting code. Fortunately, we avoided your problem.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:12 PM   #7
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Conduit is one option, not a requirement. The OP can secure the wires 1 1/4 away from the edge with other methods.
Going to be difficult with 3/4 furring strips.

I suppose one option would be strip the existing drywall and fur out the existing studs to useable thickness.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:21 PM   #8
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Going to be difficult with 3/4 furring strips.

I suppose one option would be strip the existing drywall and fur out the existing studs to useable thickness.
Whats going to be difficult about it? just keep the wires 1 1/4 away from the framing members, not the sheetrock.

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Old 11-04-2012, 09:23 PM   #9
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That doesn't meet the NEC in my interpretation. I believe power cable must be 1.25 inches from the front edge. The drawing provided refers to NEC codes for Class 2 and 3 cable not for power wires. Class 2&3 are circuits that operate at 30v or less(doorbells and thermostats).
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:43 PM   #10
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I have seen that same graphic used for Chapter 3 wiring methods too. I would have never considered that interpretation of from the face of the stud. I always considered that measurement to be taken from the front face of the stud, not the side.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:08 PM   #11
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My interpretation is that the 1-1/4" from the front(or rear) face of a stud is for a cable passing through the stud.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:16 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by joed View Post
That doesn't meet the NEC in my interpretation. I believe power cable must be 1.25 inches from the front edge. The drawing provided refers to NEC codes for Class 2 and 3 cable not for power wires. Class 2&3 are circuits that operate at 30v or less(doorbells and thermostats).

Regardless how the graphic is labeled, it's the same requirement... Perfect example is when they apply 5/8 1x2 on the ceiling, I only have to be 1.25 away from the furring strip and still staple to the bottom of the joist, in Massachusetts, they have an amendment to allow 1" not the full 1.25 distance away.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:24 AM   #13
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That doesn't meet the NEC in my interpretation. I believe power cable must be 1.25 inches from the front edge.

Sure, if it goes through a framing member, but if you run parallel, then its 1.25 from the edge.




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