Noob here. 23 years after the house was built an outlet in my finished basement went dead while I was using my computer, then recovered, then had intermittant power and now is completely dead. I shoved the prongs of a circuit tester into the slots and got no light, but with one prong in a slot and one prong touching an ear of the outlet I get a light. Same thing with any slot and any ear. After it first went dead I removed the faceplate and pulled the outlet outa the box, but didn't touch any wires. Power came back until I started a power saw, then went dead again. I assumed the wires were crossed somewhere in or near that box but I never tripped a circuit breaker.
I just replaced the outlet with a new one and stuck the 3 black wires in the brass side and 3 white sires in the silver side - no luck - same symptoms! I got power (slot to ear) but not how I want it.. ; (
I am no electrician but sounds like some sort of short or loose wire somewhere. Metal box? Why 3 wires? How do you get 3 wires unto each side of the receptacle? Have you tested the wires themselves without the receptacle? I am sure the experts will jump on this soon hang tight. Thanks.
There could be a loose neutral (white wire) connection at one of the other outlet boxes on the line on the way back to the panel.
Generally if the hot (black wire) part is connected properly you will get voltage between hot and ground (including the ears on the receptacle unit. But circuits are not supposed to be used this way. Do not connect the neutral and ground together at an outlet box. You need to have the neutral working properly, as a continuous path with good connections back to the panel much the same way the hot is.
You have an open (it has come apart) neutral (white wire).
The black wire carries power from the circuit breaker. The white wire carries it back to complete the circuit. Your power is getting there, it's just not getting back.
The ears are not hot, they are attached to the bare ground wire which terminates at the same place as the white wire. The juice is flowing back thru the ground wire.
The wires are spliced or connected at several junction boxes throughout the circuit.
The most likely place to look is at the saw recep. Check the wires where they stab into the back of the recep. It could also be anywhere along that circuit between the computer and the circuit breaker.
For about $15.00, you can buy an outlet tester. Mine has 3 lights, one red and two yellow. Different combinations of lights will light up depending on the problem, and it will tell you exactly what is wrong with it. For a novice like me, it beats using a volt meter.
My Measurements:
On a circuit protected by a GFCI CB
at 123 vac Line the Wiggy drew 27.5 mA Line to N
When I checked from Line to grd the GFCI tripped
Bob L. 3/20/09
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So the solenoid impedance, Z, = 123v/.0275A = 4.5 kohm.
If you measure the DC resistance then the coil reactance due to its inductance can also be figured out.
The test resistor in a GFCI is about 16k, so this will definitely trip GFCIs.
GFCI monitor the current flow in the hot and common lines and trip if the current is not the same by more than 5ma. When you connect a load from hot to ground you have current flow in the hot wire but not the common wire and the GFCI trips. High capacative loads can also cause a GFCI to trip becuse it cause a delay in current flow.
The main plus is that it doesn't respond to phantom voltages, and since you have some idea of what voltage is "normal" [120, 240, 460] it doesn't need to be very accurate. And it's rugged.
This GT-16 model has an adjustable threshold that also works as an almost fool-proof on/off switch. Tracing Low voltage ckts and finding opens in outdoor lights is a real plus.
Many of the Electrical Plug-Iin three light testers also have a GFCI test button that connects a resistor between the Hot and ground to verify that the GFCI will trip. HF has the Tester without the GFCI Test button for $2.99 and with the Test button for $4.99. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32906
For the small increase in price the GFCI Test is worth it. For example sometimes downstream receptacles are wired off the 'Load' terminals of a GFCI and are not marked "GFCI PROTECTED" By using the GFCI Test button a user can tell whether or not a GFCI or GFCI breaker is upstream.
The best GFCI tester is still the GFCI TEST button. These work the same way in that they connect a bleed resistor to the HOT, but instead of connecting the other end through a pushbutton switch to ground the other end in connected to the Neutral before the CT. What this does is make the GFCI test button work even if there is no EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor).
The GFCI will still trip on the current differential. The GFCI does not depend on the EGC for its on board test circuit.
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Finding a formula for a coil with a core having a high permeability seems to be a little more difficult.
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