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SquishyBall 03-19-2013 11:41 AM

Outdoor conduit & leakage
Hi all,

Have a quick question... replacing our AC manual disconnect box, since the old one was rusted thru. As well, the "Pull-90" where the conduit goes thru the rim joist and turns to vertical to enter the bottom of the disconnect was so rusted it had to be pried open, not unscrewed.

So in replacing this, where I turn to vertical, I've got a nicer pull-90 with a gasket that seems better suited for outdoors... but where a conduit will fit into the screw connector, it would seem water would drip down the pipe, pool up around this lip and wick down into the fitting. Should these outdoor connections be tape-wrapped or something better to prevent this?

Thank you!

sgip2000 03-19-2013 02:35 PM

I always use PVC for outdoor work. No corrosion and better sealed joints and fittings.

joecaption 03-19-2013 03:46 PM

Got a picture so we can see why it rusted out so bad?

SquishyBall 03-19-2013 04:07 PM

I could take a pic of the wall later. I've already dismantled it and tossed the bad stuff out tho. It's about 1' above ground. On the siding portion of the house, not the foundation. There are bushes nearby, but none that come right up to it. They're a good 1' away at least.

It's a typical AC disconnect. Non-fused, lift the front, pull out the plug style. Out the side was a flexible whip to the AC compressor. Out the bottom was a pull-90 w compression connector hooking it to the box. This is Chicago so everything is in conduit.

I just don't want it to rust, or have water seep into and sit in the conduit line. I'm sure it gets snowed and rained on all the time.

Jim Port 03-19-2013 06:03 PM

Bring the conduit right into the back of the disconnect.

joecaption 03-19-2013 07:22 PM

It should have be more then just 1' above the grade. Splash back and snow would take it out.
PV C conduit and a PVC box should take care of most of it.

SquishyBall 03-20-2013 08:29 AM

Right into the back...
I'd do that, but then I'd have to get access to the wall. I can't bring it out any higher than the rim joists.

Higher than 1'...
Interesting. I bumped it up about 6", but I'll move it even higher.

Here's the pic of new area. The dirty section of wall to the right and down is where the old one was.

Jim Port 03-20-2013 08:32 AM

Those fittings shown are for dry areas only. You need rain-tight connectors.

SquishyBall 03-20-2013 10:25 AM

Thank you... can you point me to a rain-tight 90? Home Depot, Menards...

joecaption 03-20-2013 10:34 AM

Any of them will have it, looks just like the LB you have now but is gray PVC instead.

Jim Port 03-20-2013 10:58 AM

If you bring the cable into the back there is no need for any of that. Just cut a recess for a cable connector and mount the disconnect over the hole. A U shape of duct seal or caulk will keep the weather out.

SquishyBall 03-20-2013 01:00 PM

Jim, I can't come in the back because of the height. My line comes thru the wall at the rim joist but the box is higher on the wall...

Joe, at the store now was going to go pvc like u suggested... but then thought there is no way I can transition from EMT to PVC mid run cuz that breaks the ground. Then I'd have to pull a ground wire the whole way. Surely there is some way to make this work properly while sticking with EMT?

Thank u for the help thus far... learned a lot about this...

Jim Port 03-20-2013 01:08 PM

Why can't you move the box down?

The PVC LB has already broken the grounding connection.

SquishyBall 03-20-2013 01:16 PM

Someone else mentioned putting it higher on the wall to avoid splash. I agree there. Plus It's hard to work on being so low.

Have an idea... the Rigid LB and terminating Hub claim to be listed for wet zones. Can I transition EMT to Rigid mid run or need an intermediate box to do that? Then the 3 outdoor pcs are rigid and all would be good..

jproffer 03-20-2013 01:31 PM

If you really want to stick with EMT, you could get some of these <--link.

That's just the first one I found, but there are other sizes and styles.

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