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Old 12-21-2011, 08:09 PM   #1
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


I pulled the old switch out of this antique jointer because I wanted to move it to a more user friendly location, plus the wire connections didn't look great. When I opened it up I found a switch with 4 terminals, two on top, two on bottom. The bottom two are the line in, black and white wires, one each. On the top of the switch, above the black wire there is a red wire and a white wire going into the motor. Above the white wire, a white and black wire going into the motor. (the pictures will explain this best) Whats going on here? I have a new 20 amp single pole switch that I thought would work, now not so sure. Can I wire combine the white line in to the black and white into the motor, and then combine the black (switched) wire to the red and black going into the motor? When I got this thing it had a 120 volt plug on it, I plugged it in and it worked. Thanks.

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Old 12-21-2011, 08:33 PM   #2
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Wouldn't that switch actually be a Double-Pole, Single Throw.

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Old 12-21-2011, 08:35 PM   #3
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Did the switch still work? If so, put a meter on it to determine which terminals switch what. Using that information you can decide your wiring diagram. I'll assume it's a 120v motor?...no?
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:40 PM   #4
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


The pictures must have resized everything, didn't see all the information.

DPDT is the proper switch as gregzoll already mentioned.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:11 PM   #5
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Missouri, A Double Throw would be two poles, On-Off-On, the Single throw would be two poles, On-Off. As for a good switch to use with safety cutoff, I am sure Graybar would have something, since what Radio Shack would have, may not be good enough, but Parts Express may have, with a kill cover that can be pushed down to kill the circuit, vs. just a paddle switch.
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Last edited by gregzoll; 12-21-2011 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:17 PM   #6
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Missouri, A Double Throw would be two poles, On-Off-On, the Single throw would be two poles, On-Off. As for a good switch to use with safety cutoff, I am sure Graybar would have something, since what Radio Shack would have, but Parts Express may have, with a kill cover that can be pushed down to kill the circuit, vs. just a paddle switch.

Yeah...you are right.....guess I'm having a brain fart night.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:21 PM   #7
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


So in the original switch is the neutral switched also? If yes, then a SPST could work by bypassing the switching of the neutral. Just connect the neutrals.

Edit: oops...looked again at picture. I don't think so.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:36 PM   #8
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Thanks. So I need a Double-Pole, Single Throw correct? And that's the only switch that will work?
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:39 PM   #9
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


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Originally Posted by jlmran View Post
So in the original switch is the neutral switched also? If yes, then a SPST could work by bypassing the switching of the neutral. Just connect the neutrals.

Edit: oops...looked again at picture. I don't think so.
I think that's kinda what I was getting at with my post. But it sounds like a no go from what I gather..
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:41 PM   #10
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


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Originally Posted by RodBarney View Post
Thanks. So I need a Double-Pole, Single Throw correct? And that's the only switch that will work?
Yes, if there are two hots. I would sit down with a pencil and paper, and draw out a wiring diagram, if there is not one available for that unit.

I was always amazed how neat my father's wiring diagrams were, due to he was a old school Radioman for the Air Force, and worked for the telephone company. It is a art that people forgot about, and tend to rely too much on technology to take the place.

Just remember, L1, L2, N, G. Colored pencils work really well for keeping it straight. As for the switch, you could use a SPST, if only 120. The reason to kill the neutral, is so that you know that the circuit is totally dead, and there is no way for a back feed to happen, when shutting down.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:44 PM   #11
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Here is a listing of the heavy duty switches from partsexpress.com http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...TOKEN=71660348 They also have the Switch Cover, which would keep it from being powered, when the cover is down. The hard part will be finding anything larger than 20a/120vac through them. Here is a 40a at Graybar https://shop.graybar.com/webapp/wcs/...es=&formTypes= oggle Switch, Contact AC Voltage 600V, Contact AC Current 40 Ampere, Power Rating 5 Hp at 250V AC, Contact Configuration Dpst, Silver Cadmium Oxide Contacts, Terminal Type Screw, Operating Temperature -40 to 65 Deg C, Size 1.2 Inch x 1.87 Inch, Used For Welding, UL

They also have 30 amp rated switches, that would work if the motor is no more than 2hp.
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Ren: Now listen, Cadet. I've got a job for you. See this button? Ren: Don't touch it! It's the History Eraser button, you fool! Stimpy: So what'll happen? Ren: That's just it. We don't know. Maybe something bad, maybe something good. I guess we'll never know, 'cause you're going to guard it. You won't touch it, will you?

Last edited by gregzoll; 12-21-2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:57 PM   #12
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Yes, if there are two hots. I would sit down with a pencil and paper, and draw out a wiring diagram, if there is not one available for that unit.

I was always amazed how neat my father's wiring diagrams were, due to he was a old school Radioman for the Air Force, and worked for the telephone company. It is a art that people forgot about, and tend to rely too much on technology to take the place.

Just remember, L1, L2, N, G. Colored pencils work really well for keeping it straight. As for the switch, you could use a SPST, if only 120. The reason to kill the neutral, is so that you know that the circuit is totally dead, and there is no way for a back feed to happen, when shutting down.
Thanks Greg for the help. I am certain that this thing is wired for 120 volts. Well I guess I shouldn't say certain, but there was a 120v plug on the end of the cord and I plugged it in (reluctantly because the cord was frayed to the copper in about ten places) and it fired up and ran. So I am confused why there would be two hots, in my limited experience I thought that was for 220. Uh for a wiring diagram, I have done a few with success, but this is a whole different animal for me. I know I have three wires coming out of the wall and I know where those go, why there is two whites, and a red and a black going into the motor..well I haven't wrapped my brain around that yet.

Last edited by RodBarney; 12-21-2011 at 10:23 PM. Reason: Hit enter by accident.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:25 PM   #13
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Here is a listing of the heavy duty switches from partsexpress.com http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...TOKEN=71660348 They also have the Switch Cover, which would keep it from being powered, when the cover is down. The hard part will be finding anything larger than 20a/120vac through them. Here is a 40a at Graybar https://shop.graybar.com/webapp/wcs/...es=&formTypes= oggle Switch, Contact AC Voltage 600V, Contact AC Current 40 Ampere, Power Rating 5 Hp at 250V AC, Contact Configuration Dpst, Silver Cadmium Oxide Contacts, Terminal Type Screw, Operating Temperature -40 to 65 Deg C, Size 1.2 Inch x 1.87 Inch, Used For Welding, UL

They also have 30 amp rated switches, that would work if the motor is no more than 2hp.
Thanks for the links, I'll check it out.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:52 AM   #14
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Old Delta Jointer Switch Wiring


FYI - I'd bet that the motor can be wired 120 or 240 so the switch would have to be two pole which can support either configuration.
To use a single pole switch connect together all the wires on the side of the switch that your white power neutral. Connect your power hot to one side of the switch and all the wires on the hot side to the other screw on the switch.

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