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Odysseus 03-21-2011 07:22 AM

No power to dishwasher
 
I have a second story apartment built in about 1972. Recently there was a water leak into one corner of the kitchen from the next floor above. In the opposite corner is my dishwasher, which is hardwired.

The water saturated the floor underneath the leak and spread several feet out, requiring that the kitchen flooring will need to be replaced. The leak was repaired several days ago and the flooring is drying out.

The dishwasher stopped working. No lights showing on panel. I have pulled the d/w out and tested the wiring to the unit with a non-contact tester, which shows no electricity coming to the dishwasher.

No other electrical problems anywhere in the apartment.

The circuit breaker panel is probably the original, possibly part of an update, but is pretty old. The c//b switch which was labeled for the d/w is a 20amp, but since the d/w has a heating element in it, I am wondering if a single 20A is sufficient and so may be mislabeled.

In any case no c/b switches were tripped. JIC, I reset them all. Still no power to the d/w.

The circuit breaker panel is on a wall several feet away from the kitchen but closer to the d/w than the corner where the leak occurred. It seems to me unlikely that the leak could be responsible for shorting the c/b switch, but thought I should ask the experts? Any thoughts on this?

I am guessing that (very coincidentally) the c/b switch failed at the same time as the leak, although the co-incidence factor seems a bit unlikely. Even if caused by the leak, since there is now no power in that circuit, the c/b switch is now suspect. How do I safely test the c/b switch?

PaliBob 03-21-2011 07:35 AM

Ody, Welcome to the Forum

Dishwashers have just have one C/B.
With your non contact tester can you tell whether or not the C/B is working?
.

Odysseus 03-21-2011 07:43 AM

Thanks for the very quick reply The tester shows current in the C/b switch, but I was not sure whether this meant that the switch was OK or just getting a hot wire to the switch.

Thurman 03-21-2011 08:31 AM

IMO: A non-contact electrical tester used to detect current in a circuit breaker within a panel can/will be picking up "ghost currents" from within the panel and possibly/probably be giving you false readings. You really need to use some type of contact tester to determine if you have power coming out of the affected circuit breaker, then from the dedicated wiring for the dishwasher. IF you do indeed have power to the dishwasher, you will need to determine whether you have a 110/115 volt circuit or a 220 volt circuit. Your breaker would be helpful here: IF it is a single-pole/one toggle handle--then it is 110 volt, if it has two toggle handles built together--then it is likely/probably is a 220 volt circuit. The you will need to check how many wires are in the service wiring to the dishwasher, and check for proper voltage there. IF you can get power to the dishwasher, hook the unit back up and it doesn't run: Look for a separate circuit breaker on the motor of the unit--I've seen one in my life and it drove me nuts until it was found. Bottom line is: Electricity can be harmful, be careful, and don't hesitate to call in help when needed.

Odysseus 03-21-2011 09:01 AM

Thurman, Thanks for yours. Do you have any suggestions that I might try myself, or is it time to get in a professional?

SD515 03-21-2011 09:30 AM

The first line of your original post mentions 'apartment'. Many jurisdictions require electrical work on rentals to be done by a licensed electrician. Whether you're the landlord or a tenant, you should have a pro in on this, if nothing more than for liability purposes, IMHO.

Odysseus 03-21-2011 09:35 AM

SD515, thanks for yours. the apt is a condo and belongs to my wife and I, so there are no liability issues. I am as careful as they come and when it comes to bare wiring, I draw a line.

however if there are any other tests that I can perform safely, I want to do all that I can.

jbfan 03-21-2011 12:01 PM

I would check for any gfci's that may be tripped.
If you are sure you reset every breaker in the panel, that dosen't leave much else.
The dishwasher coould be tied to another circuit somewhere.

Tizzer 03-21-2011 04:19 PM

This may be a stretch but it's happened to me. Usually, the stove,hot water,heat/air and dishwasher are on their own double breakers.
Sometimes one of the doubles looks ON but it really hadn't clicked fully in ON.
The tester you have may be showing just half of the 220 it requires.

*I* would call an electrician if this were my condo. 220 is not to be played with

dmxtothemax 03-21-2011 06:33 PM

Is the dishwasher 220v or is it 120v ?
If it is 120v there should be power on one line only.
If it is 220v there should be power on both lines.
If there is no sign of power at the dishwasher,
Then pull the fuses or breakers on the dishwasher,
double check for power on both lines.
Then check continuity of the lines to the panel.
All simple checks,
But be carefull and safe !
If you dont feel confident you can do it safely,
THEN DON'T.
Call in a pro instead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Odysseus (Post 613697)
I have a second story apartment built in about 1972. Recently there was a water leak into one corner of the kitchen from the next floor above. In the opposite corner is my dishwasher, which is hardwired.

The water saturated the floor underneath the leak and spread several feet out, requiring that the kitchen flooring will need to be replaced. The leak was repaired several days ago and the flooring is drying out.

The dishwasher stopped working. No lights showing on panel. I have pulled the d/w out and tested the wiring to the unit with a non-contact tester, which shows no electricity coming to the dishwasher.

No other electrical problems anywhere in the apartment.

The circuit breaker panel is probably the original, possibly part of an update, but is pretty old. The c//b switch which was labeled for the d/w is a 20amp, but since the d/w has a heating element in it, I am wondering if a single 20A is sufficient and so may be mislabeled.

In any case no c/b switches were tripped. JIC, I reset them all. Still no power to the d/w.

The circuit breaker panel is on a wall several feet away from the kitchen but closer to the d/w than the corner where the leak occurred. It seems to me unlikely that the leak could be responsible for shorting the c/b switch, but thought I should ask the experts? Any thoughts on this?

I am guessing that (very coincidentally) the c/b switch failed at the same time as the leak, although the co-incidence factor seems a bit unlikely. Even if caused by the leak, since there is now no power in that circuit, the c/b switch is now suspect. How do I safely test the c/b switch?


Odysseus 03-21-2011 08:25 PM

Thanks for all the good counsel.

I have checked every outlet with a lamp, reset each of the (3 total) GFCI's, reset all of the circuit breakers several times, and everything electrical, save the D/W, in the condo is working perfectly.

I have managed to stay alive for 68 years knowing when to not take risks, and I can tell it is now time to call in a professional. I'm OK on the switch flipping side of a circuit breaker box, but the other side is reserved for those who know what they are doing, not for those asking.

Thanks again.


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