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Old 04-02-2010, 01:46 AM   #1
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Nice air auction air compressor!!! Or is it?


Last weekend I purchased from a fellow this dayton speedaire air compressor. He said he had to let it go because he did not have 220v in his garage. Anyway I gave $150 for it and did not realize until I was unloading it in my shop that it is a three phase air compressor. I am very familiar with regular house wiring but not so much with industrial wiring or 3 phase, starters and converters. The more I looked the more I discovered the unit is incomplete. For instance there is no piping from the compressor to the tank. The 1/4" flexible tubing from the pressure switch is not connected, I assume this goes to the tank inlet. The main challenge for me to overcome however is the wiring.


Attachment 19134,Nice air auction air compressor!!! Or is it?-img_8903.jpg,

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The motor has 9 wires labeled T1 - T9 (also a green ground). T1,T2 & T3 wires leave the motor via a 4' conduit to a box (wall mount) that I am not familiar with. These 3 wires are attached to 3 terminals labeled T1, T2 & T3 matching the wires. From the pressure switch I have two wires (both red) leaving the switch via another conduit to the previously mentioned wall mounted box.

My assumption is I will need a 3 phase converter or replace the motor with a single phase 240 volt motor. Was not expecting to spend alot of money on this, in fact I was hoping to unload this at the shop, wire a plug to it and go to work. Not So!!!!!

Anyway I have included pictures if anyone can help.
How do I wire it?
What is the purpose of the wall mount box?
How is it to be plumbed?
Do I need a new motor or converter?

Thanks in advance,

Ray

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Old 04-02-2010, 02:14 AM   #2
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Nice air auction air compressor!!! Or is it?


well in theory you could create three phase power from the single phase in your house using transformers but it's going to cost you thousands to do. Easy way is to just replace the motor with a single phase motor or buy a new compressor.

either that or build one of these
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/fig1.html
a converter for a 3hp motor will run you around $600 though so it's probably not cost effective.
There is an old trick you can use to get it to run but again it's probably not worth it. You would need two double pole double throw switches with a center off postion, a 120v motor from a wash machine or something like that, and another 3 phase motor preferably larger than the compressor motor or at least a faster rpm. I'm not even going to try to explain how to wire it up...it's easier if you look at a diagram. just google it and it'll show you.

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Last edited by andrew79; 04-02-2010 at 02:49 AM.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:16 PM   #3
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Nice air auction air compressor!!! Or is it?


You can get a simple VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) that will convert single phase into 3 phase. Check www.automationdirect.com for pricing.
Its real simple to hook up. You basically input 230 volt single phase and output 230 volt 3 phase. It is by far the least expensive and easiest to do than any other method.

Ps.......Your wiring diagram is right on the nameplate in the picture above.
Also. I found one for you here http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/...AC%29/GS2-23P0 for $350.00. Part # GS2-23P0

Last edited by J. V.; 04-02-2010 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:18 PM   #4
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Nice air auction air compressor!!! Or is it?


If you keep the 3 phase motor, you'll need to re-connect it for 230 volts. Right now, it's connected for 460 volts. It's an easy connection, just follow the nameplate diagram. You'll also need to change the heaters in the starter.

A VFD will run this compressor, as will a rotary phase converter. A static phase converter will not run it.

If you want to replace the motor with a single phase one, it's pretty easy. The replacement motor needs to be as follows;

HP - 2

RPM - Somewhere between 3400 and 3600

Frame - 56HZ, 143T, or 145T. Any of these will do

Also, it'll run much better if connected to a 240 volt source, so be sure it can be connected 230 volts. If the motor is thermally protected, you won't need the starter, the pressure switch will handle it. It's best to get a motor that's reversible, if not, it'll need to turn clockwise when viewed from the non-drive end.

The pump is actually made by Champion, and sold under the Speedaire brand. They're still made today, and parts are easy to get. It's a two-stage pump, it can operate at pressures up to 175 PSI. The pressure switch very likely turns on at 145, and off at 175.

You'll need to get an 'in tank check valve'. A Grainger # 6X213 will work. Get rid of the black iron pipe at the top of the tank at the pump end, and screw the check valve in the fitting in the tank. Run some 1/2" copper (type K, not M or L) from the pump outlet to the top of the check valve. The small black tube goes to the side of the check valve.

It'd be a good idea to change the oil in the pump. Use straight 30 weight, not multi-weight like 10-40. Non-detergent is better. Just about any 'air compressor oil ' that's made for reciprocating pumps will be good. Synthetic oil will work, but you'll need to change it after the pump runs for about 10 minutes. Synthetic oil and mineral-based oil don't get along very well. Synthetic oil will also attack polycarbonate, which is commonly used in filters and oilers.

Feel free to post again if you need more advice.

Rob
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Old 04-03-2010, 12:43 AM   #5
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Thanks for your sound advice! I believe my best option is 240 v single phase. I will order the check valve suggested. When you say 1/2 copper type k, is that fastened by nut and brass feral or flared ends. I don't believe this is roll copper or is it?

You also mentioned frame size, will this ensure the proper height, size and mounting?

Since I will not be using the old motor and starter, are either items sought after used?
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Old 04-03-2010, 12:59 AM   #6
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As far for cost wise and time normally I will recomeond VSD { variable speed drive } but being this motor is only 2 CV { HP } you can able find new 2 CV motor for just couple hundred Euros / Dollars but make sure you watch the rotation on it if you get resverisble type that fine.

To reverse most single phasé motour useally are #5 and #8 { typically black and red or it will marked number on the conductor } and follow the nameplate diagaram very carefull with connections.

Micromind cover good details and he got all the corner covered.

Merci,Marc
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:01 PM   #7
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Nice air auction air compressor!!! Or is it?


Type K is the stuff you can bend. It usually comes in a roll, most places will sell it by the foot. The check valve I listed uses compression ferrules, as does the fitting on the pump.

The frame size of the motor has to do with mounting holes, and shaft size. In this case, the shaft is 7/8" diameter.

If you can't find a 56HZ, 143T, or 145T frame, a 56H frame will very likely have the same mounting holes, if not, you can drill holes in the tank baseplate to match the slots in the motor. The shaft size of a 56H frame is 5/8", so you'll need to get another pulley.

Rob

P.S. If the two slots in the tank baseplate closest to the drive belts are 3" center to center, a 56 frame motor will fit. It has a 5/8" shaft.

Last edited by micromind; 04-03-2010 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Added P.S.
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Old 04-04-2010, 11:16 PM   #8
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(You'll need to get an 'in tank check valve'. A Grainger # 6X213 will work. Get rid of the black iron pipe at the top of the tank at the pump end, and screw the check valve in the fitting in the tank. Run some 1/2" copper (type K, not M or L) from the pump outlet to the top of the check valve. The small black tube goes to the side of the check valve. )

If the in tank check valve is screwed in the tank, where will the air hose fasten?
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Old 04-04-2010, 11:27 PM   #9
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One way you can do is buy a tee fitting and put the check valve on upper side of the tee fitting and the lower part of tee that will go in the tank and the horzontal tee fitting that where you can hook up the air hose there otherwise unscrew the two inch bung you will need good wrench on this one due they will toqure it very well.

Once you get it off then you can able buy a reducing bushing to reduce from 2 inches to either 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe size and screw it in good and tight.

Merci,Marc
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:03 AM   #10
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In addition to the above post, (which is correct) there might be fittings on the ends of the tank too. They might be smaller, like 1/2". Could be larger too, it just depends on the tank.

Rob
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micromind View Post
In addition to the above post, (which is correct) there might be fittings on the ends of the tank too. They might be smaller, like 1/2". Could be larger too, it just depends on the tank.

Rob
This is the only outlet in the tank. The best would be to pipe in a tee, the inlet from the pump and outlet to the air hose will join at the same tee. Does not sound right, but I guess it will work ok.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:43 PM   #12
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A couple of issues I can see with the tee are;

1) The check valve extends 1-1/4" into the tank. It won't fit into a 1/2" pipe nipple. It'll just barely fit into a 1/2" tee with a nipple screwed into the other end. They almost touch.

2) The air is hot and moist at the discharge of the pump. The tank will cool it, and the moisture will condense onto the sides of the tank. If the air is taken out somewhere other than the discharge of the pump, it'll be cooler and less moist.

If there are no other ports, you might be able to modify the piping by the pressure switch a bit, and get an outlet there. Be careful though, keep the pipe from the tank a big as you can, if it's small, a lot of flow will fool the pressure switch, and it'll start when it doesn't need to.

Considering its age, getting one of the 2" plugs out of the side could be very difficult. If you can get one of them out, that'd be the best place to get air from.

Rob

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